Fashion during the 20th century post-war periods

Marija Kertakova, Sonja Jordeva, Kiro Mojsov
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Abstract

: 20th century war and post-war periods are a particularly specifi c time lines that have a dramatic eff ect on the development of fashion. In the post-war period, the problem of fashion appearance took a back seat. This fact, which aff ects both sexes equally, is perceived relatively quietly by men but not by women. As always, there are two trends – attraction and repulsion. The fi rst involves the use of military elements in a civilian costume. The second tendency is to create a line that will allow people to shake off as soon as possible the night-marish memories of the war. The new social ideal of beauty is based on the clear construction and appropriate-ness of the garment, but it already feels the ebb and fl ow of the principle of military production – „cheap and easy”. The new fashion bows to the elements left behind by cubism and constructivism – rigor, clarity, linearity, volume reduction – after the First and – convenience, combination of the incompatible, kaleidoscope of colors, fabrics and forms – after the Second World War. After the end of the two world wars, the military and pre-war infl uences were almost forgotten. New generations live their full-blooded lives and are interested in fashionable clothing, and here come the fi rst fashion trends related to youth counterculture. The breakthrough of women in the business world and the trace for emancipation imposes from military emelents, ladies‘ fashion, to begin to shift towards masculine ones. A new wave of segregation and a special attitude towards a brand new women‘s business clothing begins.
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20世纪战后时期的时尚
20世纪的战争和战后时期是一个特别特殊的时间线,对时尚的发展产生了巨大的影响。在战后时期,时尚外观的问题退居次要地位。这一事实对男女两性都有影响,但男性却相对平静地意识到了这一点,而女性则不然。一如既往,有两种趋势——吸引和排斥。第一种是在平民服装中使用军事元素。第二种倾向是创造一条能让人们尽快摆脱战争噩梦般的记忆的路线。新的社会审美理想是建立在服装结构清晰和得体的基础上的,但它已经感受到了军事生产原则的潮起潮落——“廉价易得”。新时尚向立体主义和构成主义留下的元素致敬——严谨、清晰、线性、体积缩小——在第一次世界大战之后,方便、不相容的组合、颜色、面料和形式的万花筒——在第二次世界大战之后。两次世界大战结束后,军事和战前的影响几乎被遗忘了。新一代的生活充满活力,对时尚服装感兴趣,这里出现了与青年反主流文化相关的第一批时尚潮流。女性在商界的突破和解放的痕迹,迫使女装从军事元素开始向男性化转变。一场新的种族隔离浪潮和对全新女性商务服装的特殊态度开始了。
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审稿时长
12 weeks
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