Effect of cosmetic films with ascorbic acid and hyaluronic acid on transepidermal water loss

Abstract

Cosmetic films are structures made of a polymer capable of forming a continuous matrix. Collagen and hyaluronic acid (HA) are components of the skin extracellular matrix and act to maintain its elasticity and resistance. Ascorbic acid (AA) acts in the formation of collagen fibers, contributing to the maintenance of their firmness and elasticity. This study aimed to evaluate the moisturizing properties of cosmetic films with AA or HA in their composition. It was also investigated whether the presence of caprylyl glycol would interfere with the TWEL of the formulations. The occlusive properties of the films were assessed based on the reduction of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in 20 healthy participants using a Tewameter probe. At T30, 30 minutes after application, all formulations showed a reduction in TEWL compared to the control. In general, the formulations that included caprylyl glycol presented the best TEWL results after 30 min of application. However, after 60 minutes, the transepidermal water loss began to return to its basal levels. This study showed a significant difference in the TEWL value, suggesting that the topical application of the films can contribute to the improvement and maintenance of skin hydration. Keywords: cosmetic films; collagen; hyaluronic acid; ascorbic acid; skin barrier