Pericapitalist world-making: Kitchens, gardens, and care in Wisconsin dairies

Abstract

This article illustrates how Mexican farmworkers in Wisconsin dairies negotiate forces of capitalist oppression through the production, preparation, sharing, and consumption of food. Engaging Anna Tsing's “pericapitalism,” I argue that farmworkers create spaces within and beside capitalism that enable strategies of care, relationships of solidarity, and the remaking of worlds. These practices facilitate not just farmworkers' survival within exploitative systems but also their ability to flourish. Critically examining the notions of agency, victimhood, oppression, and resistance that dominate narratives of Mexican migrant labor, this article draws from feminist ethnography to illuminate the various ways that farmworkers in Wisconsin dairies negotiate relationships to food, gardening, and cooking in order to create durable and livable worlds.