From Paper Patterns to Patterns-on-Fabric: Home Sewing in Sweden, 1881–1981

IF 0.2 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2023-03-01 DOI:10.3366/cost.2023.0245
Gunilla Törnvall
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Abstract

From the end of the nineteenth century and one hundred years onward, home sewing was an important part of many women’s duties, but it was also a pleasure, something that existed parallel with the emerging mass-produced ready-to-wear industry. The paper patterns used for home dressmaking were often sold and distributed through women’s magazines. These pattern sections were both a kind of reader service and a conscious strategy to capture the female target group. This article, based on an analysis of three Swedish magazines, is the first in-depth survey of patterns for home sewing of women’s clothes in Sweden. The study shows how the magazines adapted to changes in society with increasingly easier patterns and ready-cut fabric for their readers. By highlighting women making their clothes in the home, this article contributes to an often-neglected area of women’s memory and fashion history.
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从纸上的图案到织物上的图案:瑞典的家庭缝纫,1881-1981
从19世纪末到100年后,家庭缝纫是许多女性职责的重要组成部分,但它也是一种乐趣,与新兴的大规模生产成衣工业同时存在。用于家庭服装制作的纸图案经常通过妇女杂志出售和分发。这些模式栏目既是一种读者服务,也是一种有意识地捕捉女性目标群体的策略。本文在对瑞典三本杂志进行分析的基础上,首次对瑞典女性服装的家缝图案进行了深入的调查。这项研究显示了杂志如何适应社会的变化,为读者提供越来越简单的图案和现成的面料。通过强调女性在家里做衣服,这篇文章为女性记忆和时尚历史中一个经常被忽视的领域做出了贡献。
本文章由计算机程序翻译,如有差异,请以英文原文为准。
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来源期刊
Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society
Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-
CiteScore
0.40
自引率
50.00%
发文量
27
期刊介绍: Costume is the journal of the Costume Society. It is a scholarly, refereed, academic publication presenting current research into historic and contemporary dress. The journal publishes articles primarily object-based, from a broad chronological period and with a worldwide remit. Costume maintains a balance between practice and theory and concentrates on the social significance of dress. Articles are welcomed from established researchers and those new to the field. The articles published in Costume are sent out for peer-review to ensure that they are of a high standard and make a contribution to dress history.
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