This article discusses substantial new research which explored the trade in UK female mourning wear by tracing the history of Frederic Forster’s Mourning Warehouse, situated on Lower Briggate in Leeds 1849–1923. It also interrogated the small collection of Forster items held by Leeds Museums and Galleries (LMG). This helped to develop an understanding of why UK female mourning wear, which dominated the High Street in the late nineteenth century, began to diminish. The research subsequently examined what the Forster items signify to a present-day audience and whether the need for special clothing to denote mourning has decreased or is met by other clothing practices in a globalized world. A review of literature raised several explanations, suggesting that the cultural work done by mourning clothing is no longer required today and the symbolic efficacy of black mourning clothing disappeared as black became increasingly popular in fashionable dress. The study tested these suppositions through an object-based analysis of the items in the LMG collection and a database search of newspaper advertisements from Frederic Forster in the period 1849–1923. The research activities were filmed to synthesize the insights and the film was discussed with a selection of interview participants to explore significant new knowledge and understanding about the decline of the UK female mourning dress trade.
{"title":"The Decline of Female Mourning Wear: A Case Study Analysis of Frederic Forster's Mourning Warehouse 1849–1923 in Leeds, UK","authors":"Kevin Almond, Judith Simpson","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0259","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0259","url":null,"abstract":"This article discusses substantial new research which explored the trade in UK female mourning wear by tracing the history of Frederic Forster’s Mourning Warehouse, situated on Lower Briggate in Leeds 1849–1923. It also interrogated the small collection of Forster items held by Leeds Museums and Galleries (LMG). This helped to develop an understanding of why UK female mourning wear, which dominated the High Street in the late nineteenth century, began to diminish. The research subsequently examined what the Forster items signify to a present-day audience and whether the need for special clothing to denote mourning has decreased or is met by other clothing practices in a globalized world. A review of literature raised several explanations, suggesting that the cultural work done by mourning clothing is no longer required today and the symbolic efficacy of black mourning clothing disappeared as black became increasingly popular in fashionable dress. The study tested these suppositions through an object-based analysis of the items in the LMG collection and a database search of newspaper advertisements from Frederic Forster in the period 1849–1923. The research activities were filmed to synthesize the insights and the film was discussed with a selection of interview participants to explore significant new knowledge and understanding about the decline of the UK female mourning dress trade.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"11 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135736100","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"<i>Africa Fashion</i>, ed. by Christine Checinska","authors":"Ken Kweku Nimo","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0279","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0279","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"94 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135736274","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Susan North, <i>Sweet & Clean? Bodies and Clothes in Early Modern England</i>","authors":"Sarah A. Bendall","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0267","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0267","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"29 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135736275","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"The Costume Society Grants and Awards 2023","authors":"","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0280","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0280","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"11 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135736270","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Andrew Bolton et al., <i>In America: A Lexicon of Fashion; Fashioning America: Grit to Glamour</i>, ed. by Michelle Tolini Finamore","authors":"Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0278","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0278","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"124 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135736276","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Front matter","authors":"","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0260","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0260","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"60 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135736282","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Anna Jackson, <i>Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk</i>","authors":"Arisa Yamaguchi","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0269","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0269","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"30 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135736263","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
{"title":"Michelle Jones, <i>London Couture and the Making of a Fashion Centre</i>","authors":"Beatrice Behlen","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0276","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0276","url":null,"abstract":"","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"16 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135735425","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
In the days following Napoleon Bonaparte's nomination as Emperor of the French in May 1804, two decrees were introduced to French society: the décret du 24 messidor an XII and the décret du 29 messidor an XII. The first organized the French court into a hierarchy of privilege, placing Napoleon and his closest friends and advisors at the top of a complex pyramid of social capital. The second decree reoriented the court away from the sartorial egalitarianism of the French Revolution by legislating court costumes of varying colours and embroidery designs to correspond with each newly created governmental and courtly rank. Many histories of this period connect Napoleon's court costumes to his desire to strengthen the French silk industry, but less is understood about how Napoleon used these court costumes at his courts outside of France as organizational and imperialistic tools of social control. This article will consider how the décret du 24 messidor and the décret du 29 messidor were implemented in Paris and in the Kingdom of Italy in Milan in 1805, revealing that even as Napoleon's government attempted to structure French courtly society through codes of sartorial display, personal expression for men was still possible, especially through embroidery.
在拿破仑·波拿巴于1804年5月被提名为法国皇帝之后的日子里，法国社会颁布了两项法令:第24号信使十二号法令和第29号信使十二号法令。第一种是将法国宫廷组织成特权等级制度，将拿破仑和他最亲密的朋友和顾问置于复杂的社会资本金字塔的顶端。第二项法令通过立法规定不同颜色的宫廷服装和刺绣设计以适应每一个新成立的政府和宫廷等级，使宫廷从法国大革命的服装平等主义中重新定位。这一时期的许多历史都将拿破仑的宫廷服装与他加强法国丝绸工业的愿望联系起来，但对于拿破仑如何在法国以外的宫廷中使用这些宫廷服装作为组织和帝国主义的社会控制工具，人们知之甚少。这篇文章将考虑如何在巴黎和1805年在米兰的意大利王国实施dassacret du 24 messsidor和dassacret du 29 messsidor，揭示即使拿破仑政府试图通过服装展示规范来构建法国宫廷社会，个人表达对于男人来说仍然是可能的，特别是通过刺绣。
{"title":"Embroidered Hierarchies: French Civil Uniforms and the <i>décret du 29 messidor</i> in Napoleonic Paris and Milan","authors":"Brontë Hebdon","doi":"10.3366/cost.2023.0263","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2023.0263","url":null,"abstract":"In the days following Napoleon Bonaparte's nomination as Emperor of the French in May 1804, two decrees were introduced to French society: the décret du 24 messidor an XII and the décret du 29 messidor an XII. The first organized the French court into a hierarchy of privilege, placing Napoleon and his closest friends and advisors at the top of a complex pyramid of social capital. The second decree reoriented the court away from the sartorial egalitarianism of the French Revolution by legislating court costumes of varying colours and embroidery designs to correspond with each newly created governmental and courtly rank. Many histories of this period connect Napoleon's court costumes to his desire to strengthen the French silk industry, but less is understood about how Napoleon used these court costumes at his courts outside of France as organizational and imperialistic tools of social control. This article will consider how the décret du 24 messidor and the décret du 29 messidor were implemented in Paris and in the Kingdom of Italy in Milan in 1805, revealing that even as Napoleon's government attempted to structure French courtly society through codes of sartorial display, personal expression for men was still possible, especially through embroidery.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"2 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135735430","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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