An Inspiring Object: A Wedding Uchikake Kimono from the Collection of the National Museum in Kraków and its Multiple Representations

IF 0.2 4区 社会学 N/A HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2022-09-01 DOI:10.3366/cost.2022.0230
Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka
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Abstract

The article is concerned with a Japanese wedding uchikake kimono, c. 1800–1850, acquired by distinguished Polish collector Feliks ‘Manggha’ Jasieński in 1900, the nuanced issues surrounding its multiple representations in Polish painting and photography during the period 1900–1908, and the multifarious meanings with which the garment was imbued. The uchikake’s original features exerted a seminal formal influence upon its representations. The interpretive process was also informed by perceptions concerning the woman’s status in society and marriage in Japan and in the West, Western and Japanese artistic traditions, as well as current Japonisme in art and fashion. In each of its representations, the uchikake also conveyed personal meanings important to the artist/wearer.
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一个鼓舞人心的对象:Kraków国立博物馆收藏的婚礼和服及其多重表现
本文关注的是1900年由波兰著名收藏家Feliks ' Manggha ' Jasieński购得的一件约1800-1850年的日本婚礼和服,以及1900 - 1908年期间围绕其在波兰绘画和摄影中的多种表现形式的微妙问题,以及该服装所蕴含的多种含义。uchiake的原始特征对其表现形式产生了重大的影响。对日本和西方妇女在社会和婚姻中的地位、西方和日本的艺术传统以及目前艺术和时尚中的日本主义的看法也为解释过程提供了信息。在它的每一种表现中,御饼也传达了对艺术家/佩戴者重要的个人意义。
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来源期刊
Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society
Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-
CiteScore
0.40
自引率
50.00%
发文量
27
期刊介绍: Costume is the journal of the Costume Society. It is a scholarly, refereed, academic publication presenting current research into historic and contemporary dress. The journal publishes articles primarily object-based, from a broad chronological period and with a worldwide remit. Costume maintains a balance between practice and theory and concentrates on the social significance of dress. Articles are welcomed from established researchers and those new to the field. The articles published in Costume are sent out for peer-review to ensure that they are of a high standard and make a contribution to dress history.
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