The application of the aqueous extract of milona leaves (Cissampelos sympodialis Eichl) in a cosmetic formulation

M. L. Cornélio, M. F. M. Diniz
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Abstract

In the light of the search for untried natural active ingredients to provide new possibilities and increased benefits with their application in the cosmetic industry, we have introduced the species Cissampelos sympodialis Eichl (Menispermaceae) into the field of cosmetics. Our research was focused on the aqueous extract of milona leaves (Cissampelos sympodialis) and its application in cosmetic formulations. A phytochemical screening confirming the presence of some classes of secondary metabolites such as alkaloids, tannins, flavonoids and saponins had previously been reported in the literature. Due to its medicinal potential, mentioned in the literature, we applied the aqueous extract of Cissampelos sympodialis leaves in the development of cosmetic formulations, in view of its anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. On this basis, we consider the extract to be a promising active ingredient for skin and hair care. The aim of the present study was therefore to develop a cosmetic formulation (o/w), namely, a facial care cream containing the aqueous extract of milona leaves and to perform the stability study of the formulation.The stability study showed that the formulation presented no change in organoleptic characteristics, nor in physical and chemical parameters. The mean pH value was 4.5 ± 0.2 and the mean viscosity values were 999 ± 0.3 cP, which remained unchanged throughout the study. Microbiological analysis showed no formation of bacteria or fungi in the formulation containing the aqueous extract of Cissampelos sympodialis. We concluded that the cosmetic formulation containing this innovative raw material presents the desired characteristics for a new product. Further research will be necessary to perform clinical tests with volunteers to verify the benefits for the skin and hair.
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百味草在化妆品配方中应用百味草叶的水提取物
为了寻找未经尝试的天然活性成分,为其在化妆品工业中的应用提供新的可能性和增加的效益,我们将香参属植物(香参科)引入化妆品领域。本文主要研究了百万纳叶的水提物及其在化妆品中的应用。植物化学筛选证实存在一些类型的次生代谢物,如生物碱、单宁、黄酮类化合物和皂苷,此前已有文献报道。由于文献中提到的药用潜力,鉴于其抗氧化和抗炎特性,我们将香参叶的水提取物应用于化妆品配方的开发。在此基础上,我们认为该提取物是一种很有前途的皮肤和头发护理活性成分。因此,本研究的目的是开发一种化妆品配方(0 /w),即一种含有百万罗纳叶水提取物的面部护理霜,并对该配方进行稳定性研究。稳定性研究表明,该制剂的感官特性和理化参数均未发生变化。平均pH值为4.5±0.2,平均粘度值为999±0.3 cP,在整个研究过程中保持不变。微生物学分析表明,在含有山参水提物的配方中没有形成细菌或真菌。我们的结论是,含有这种创新原料的化妆品配方呈现出新产品所需的特性。进一步的研究将需要对志愿者进行临床试验,以验证对皮肤和头发的益处。
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