{"title":"Adjusting standard retail practices for nonstandard consumers: How punk and subcultural fashion boutiques find success and build community","authors":"Monica Sklar, Maureen Lehto Brewster, Brett Whitley","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00131_1","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"This research analyses the merchandising practices used to create a punk retail environment and shopping experience, distinct from more mainstream forms of consumption available simultaneously, as well as to document the merchandising history of United States punk style development, which is not widely known. Through primary interviews and archival data, this research discerns the practices that set these boutiques apart from their merchandising counterparts, Do It Yourself, or mass market chains. Analysis reviewed how these boutiques reconciled the challenge of appealing to critical consumers who were otherwise poised to potentially not need or want their services as scene members were a niche market segment that leaned anti-capitalist. Owner involvement, employee knowledge and retention, visual display, careful object selection and non-merchandising interaction with regional and national punk scenes are significant considerations. These stores provided community, commerce and educational spaces that projected subcultural authenticity through their business methods and cultural awareness. While not without some criticism of packaging a caricature of a lifestyle, overall the boutiques’ attempts at thoughtful practices led to consumer loyalty and business longevity, gaining market success alongside scene approval.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.4000,"publicationDate":"2022-05-30","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"1","resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00131_1","RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":null,"ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"0","JCRName":"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY","Score":null,"Total":0}
引用次数: 1
Abstract
This research analyses the merchandising practices used to create a punk retail environment and shopping experience, distinct from more mainstream forms of consumption available simultaneously, as well as to document the merchandising history of United States punk style development, which is not widely known. Through primary interviews and archival data, this research discerns the practices that set these boutiques apart from their merchandising counterparts, Do It Yourself, or mass market chains. Analysis reviewed how these boutiques reconciled the challenge of appealing to critical consumers who were otherwise poised to potentially not need or want their services as scene members were a niche market segment that leaned anti-capitalist. Owner involvement, employee knowledge and retention, visual display, careful object selection and non-merchandising interaction with regional and national punk scenes are significant considerations. These stores provided community, commerce and educational spaces that projected subcultural authenticity through their business methods and cultural awareness. While not without some criticism of packaging a caricature of a lifestyle, overall the boutiques’ attempts at thoughtful practices led to consumer loyalty and business longevity, gaining market success alongside scene approval.
本研究分析了朋克零售环境和购物体验的商业实践,与主流的消费形式不同,并记录了美国朋克风格发展的商业历史,这一历史并不广为人知。通过初步访谈和档案数据,本研究发现了将这些精品店与他们的销售对手、Do It Yourself或大众市场连锁店区分开来的做法。分析回顾了这些精品店如何协调挑战,吸引挑剔的消费者,否则这些消费者可能不需要或不想要他们的服务,因为现场成员是一个倾向于反资本主义的细分市场。业主的参与、员工的知识和保留、视觉展示、仔细的物品选择以及与地区和国家朋克场景的非商业互动都是重要的考虑因素。这些商店提供社区、商业和教育空间,通过他们的商业方法和文化意识来投射亚文化的真实性。尽管有些人批评精品店的包装讽刺了一种生活方式,但总的来说,精品店在深思熟虑的做法上的尝试,让消费者对它们产生了忠诚度,让它们的业务寿命更长,在获得市场认可的同时,也获得了市场的成功。