Review of: A New History of ‘Made in Italy’: Fashion and Textiles in Post-War Italy , Lucia Savi (2023) London: Bloomsbury Publishing Plc, 204 pp., ISBN 978-1-35024-7758, h/bk, £85
{"title":"A New History of ‘Made in Italy’: Fashion and Textiles in Post-War Italy, Lucia Savi (2023)","authors":"Rachel Hart","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00221_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00221_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: A New History of ‘Made in Italy’: Fashion and Textiles in Post-War Italy , Lucia Savi (2023) London: Bloomsbury Publishing Plc, 204 pp., ISBN 978-1-35024-7758, h/bk, £85","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":"51 9","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-11-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135819838","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Review of: Fear and Clothing: Dress in English Detective Fiction between the First and Second World Wars , Jane Custance Baker (2023) London: Bloomsbury Publishing, 252 pp., ISBN 978-1-35024-030-8, h/bk, $82.80
{"title":"Fear and Clothing: Dress in English Detective Fiction between the First and Second World Wars, Jane Custance Baker (2023)","authors":"Alyssa Dana Adomaitis","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00220_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00220_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Fear and Clothing: Dress in English Detective Fiction between the First and Second World Wars , Jane Custance Baker (2023) London: Bloomsbury Publishing, 252 pp., ISBN 978-1-35024-030-8, h/bk, $82.80","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":"53 12","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-11-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135820298","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Review of: Political and Sartorial Styles: Britain and Its Colonies in the Long Nineteenth Century , Kevin A. Morrison (ed.) (2023) Manchester: Manchester University Press, 274 pp., ISBN 978-1-52615-307-4, h/bk, $195.00 ISBN 978-1-52615-306-7, e-book, $135.00
回顾:政治和服装风格:英国及其殖民地在漫长的十九世纪，凯文A.莫里森(编)(2023)曼彻斯特:曼彻斯特大学出版社，274页，ISBN 978-1-52615-307-4, h/bk， $195.00 ISBN 978-1-52615-306-7，电子书，$135.00
{"title":"Political and Sartorial Styles: Britain and Its Colonies in the Long Nineteenth Century, Kevin A. Morrison (ed.) (2023)","authors":"Linda Florence Matheson","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00219_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00219_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Political and Sartorial Styles: Britain and Its Colonies in the Long Nineteenth Century , Kevin A. Morrison (ed.) (2023) Manchester: Manchester University Press, 274 pp., ISBN 978-1-52615-307-4, h/bk, $195.00 ISBN 978-1-52615-306-7, e-book, $135.00","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":"50 5","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-11-03","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135869211","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Review of: Dressed for Freedom: The Fashionable Politics of American Feminism , Einav Rabinovitch-Fox (2021) Champaign, IL: University of Illinois Press, 272 pp., ISBN 978-0-25204-401-4, h/bk, $110
{"title":"Dressed for Freedom: The Fashionable Politics of American Feminism, Einav Rabinovitch-Fox (2021)","authors":"Zahra Falsafi","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00223_5","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00223_5","url":null,"abstract":"Review of: Dressed for Freedom: The Fashionable Politics of American Feminism , Einav Rabinovitch-Fox (2021) Champaign, IL: University of Illinois Press, 272 pp., ISBN 978-0-25204-401-4, h/bk, $110","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":"57 7","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-11-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135933277","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
In this article I critically examine the history of nylon stockings in the United States through the lenses of race and gender. Drawing on visual and material culture examples related to nylon and nude colours, I show how whiteness was standardized and presented as the unmarked norm. Employing an intersectional feminist approach, my archival research expands the narrative beyond these exclusionary practices, highlighting how in ensuing decades individuals and companies marketed and crafted nylon foundationwear for a wider range of consumers. These examples offer a vital counter-history to nylon’s normalization of bodies and mass production that mobilized a standard ideal of womanhood as white, thin, heterosexual and cisgender. The legacy of the creation of ‘nude’ colours that standardize whiteness as the norm can still be seen today in foundationwear branding and everyday items like bandages. However, this has not gone unchallenged and there are increased efforts to address this, particularly among Black-owned businesses like gc2b, Nude Barre and Browndages. It is important to historicize the emergence of standard practices, such as singular definitions of nude and limited sizing practices, and how they serve to reinforce norms of racialized gender. Deconstructing these practices and critically examining less documented alternatives uncovers and addresses embedded power structures within standardization.
{"title":"Redefining nude: Unravelling nylon’s unmarked norms","authors":"Isabelle Held","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00225_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00225_1","url":null,"abstract":"In this article I critically examine the history of nylon stockings in the United States through the lenses of race and gender. Drawing on visual and material culture examples related to nylon and nude colours, I show how whiteness was standardized and presented as the unmarked norm. Employing an intersectional feminist approach, my archival research expands the narrative beyond these exclusionary practices, highlighting how in ensuing decades individuals and companies marketed and crafted nylon foundationwear for a wider range of consumers. These examples offer a vital counter-history to nylon’s normalization of bodies and mass production that mobilized a standard ideal of womanhood as white, thin, heterosexual and cisgender. The legacy of the creation of ‘nude’ colours that standardize whiteness as the norm can still be seen today in foundationwear branding and everyday items like bandages. However, this has not gone unchallenged and there are increased efforts to address this, particularly among Black-owned businesses like gc2b, Nude Barre and Browndages. It is important to historicize the emergence of standard practices, such as singular definitions of nude and limited sizing practices, and how they serve to reinforce norms of racialized gender. Deconstructing these practices and critically examining less documented alternatives uncovers and addresses embedded power structures within standardization.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":"50 12","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-11-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135273806","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Clothing practices can assist women in cultivating a particular body image and, thus, are sutured with details regarding how they manage their identity and appearance. Clothing can also help women cope with corporeal transitions, such as pregnancy. The relationship between clothing and one’s perception of their body shape changes during pregnancy as does how women feel about their clothes as they assume a new maternal identity. However, there is a lack of scholarly attention focused on exploring how postpartum mothers manage and relate to their bodies through clothing. Anchored in qualitative data collected from 128 in-depth, longitudinal interviews with 32 women at three, six, nine and twelve months postpartum, this article explores how postpartum body image, satisfaction and change are intricately linked with clothing across the first year after childbirth. Depicted through six women’s postpartum journeys, this article demonstrates that clothing becomes a barometer for bodily recovery following pregnancy and reveals details about maternal struggles, successes and spending patterns in the postpartum period.
{"title":"When the clothes fit: Exploring the embodied transition to motherhood","authors":"Jaime R. DeLuca, Jacob J. Bustad","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00213_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00213_1","url":null,"abstract":"Clothing practices can assist women in cultivating a particular body image and, thus, are sutured with details regarding how they manage their identity and appearance. Clothing can also help women cope with corporeal transitions, such as pregnancy. The relationship between clothing and one’s perception of their body shape changes during pregnancy as does how women feel about their clothes as they assume a new maternal identity. However, there is a lack of scholarly attention focused on exploring how postpartum mothers manage and relate to their bodies through clothing. Anchored in qualitative data collected from 128 in-depth, longitudinal interviews with 32 women at three, six, nine and twelve months postpartum, this article explores how postpartum body image, satisfaction and change are intricately linked with clothing across the first year after childbirth. Depicted through six women’s postpartum journeys, this article demonstrates that clothing becomes a barometer for bodily recovery following pregnancy and reveals details about maternal struggles, successes and spending patterns in the postpartum period.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":"32 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135245961","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Ann Duskin Lincoln, the founder of the Philadelphia specialty shop Nan Duskin, dominated Philadelphia retail for decades and played a significant role in the development of American fashion. At its peak, Nan Duskin was one of the leaders of American retail, and its founder, Mrs Lincoln, was internationally recognized for her fashion instincts and was one of the most respected, feared, and loved retailers in the business. This article will focus on Mrs Lincoln and Nan Duskin from 1927 to 1965, a transformative period for American fashion. It will explore the unique social role of the women’s specialty shop in American retail during the first half of the twentieth century and the critical role they had in the promotion and development of American fashion. Exemplary in every aspect, Mrs Lincoln’s career is representative of the many independent female retailers that flourished in the first half of the twentieth century.
{"title":"Philadelphia Store-y: Nan Duskin (1927–65)","authors":"Clare Sauro","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00214_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00214_1","url":null,"abstract":"Ann Duskin Lincoln, the founder of the Philadelphia specialty shop Nan Duskin, dominated Philadelphia retail for decades and played a significant role in the development of American fashion. At its peak, Nan Duskin was one of the leaders of American retail, and its founder, Mrs Lincoln, was internationally recognized for her fashion instincts and was one of the most respected, feared, and loved retailers in the business. This article will focus on Mrs Lincoln and Nan Duskin from 1927 to 1965, a transformative period for American fashion. It will explore the unique social role of the women’s specialty shop in American retail during the first half of the twentieth century and the critical role they had in the promotion and development of American fashion. Exemplary in every aspect, Mrs Lincoln’s career is representative of the many independent female retailers that flourished in the first half of the twentieth century.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":"59 1","pages":"0"},"PeriodicalIF":0.0,"publicationDate":"2023-09-29","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"135247810","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
The COVID-19 pandemic, as a global crisis, has affected the clothing consumption behaviour of consumers and it might create long-lasting changes in the fashion industry. Such behavioural shifts during global crises should be considered for sustainability-related marketing concepts and the way marketers promote sustainable clothing consumption during and after the crisis. This study explores the determinants of a shift in consumer values towards minimalistic clothing consumption during the COVID-19 pandemic in the under-researched country context of Iran. First, a literature review was conducted on topics including sustainable fashion consumption and the COVID-19 pandemic, the status of sustainable fashion consumption in Iran, as well as the influence of demographic characteristics on sustainable consumption behaviour. Second, a quantitative survey was administered to a sample of Iranian consumers (N = 382). The results reveal a value shift towards more minimalism and sufficiency in clothing consumption during the COVID-19 pandemic in the country context of Iran. Moreover, the findings highlight that age and gender significantly influenced the extent of this shift in values, while surprisingly no significant value shift was found because of employment or income changes. This article makes a unique contribution by exploring the value shifts towards minimalistic clothing consumption during global crises. Furthermore, the results of the study shed some light on consumption behaviour in an under-researched middle eastern area.
{"title":"Determinants of a shift in consumer values towards minimalistic clothing consumption during global crises","authors":"Hanieh Choopani, Stephan Wallaschkowski, S. Iran","doi":"10.1386/fspc_00209_1","DOIUrl":"https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00209_1","url":null,"abstract":"The COVID-19 pandemic, as a global crisis, has affected the clothing consumption behaviour of consumers and it might create long-lasting changes in the fashion industry. Such behavioural shifts during global crises should be considered for sustainability-related marketing concepts and the way marketers promote sustainable clothing consumption during and after the crisis. This study explores the determinants of a shift in consumer values towards minimalistic clothing consumption during the COVID-19 pandemic in the under-researched country context of Iran. First, a literature review was conducted on topics including sustainable fashion consumption and the COVID-19 pandemic, the status of sustainable fashion consumption in Iran, as well as the influence of demographic characteristics on sustainable consumption behaviour. Second, a quantitative survey was administered to a sample of Iranian consumers (N = 382). The results reveal a value shift towards more minimalism and sufficiency in clothing consumption during the COVID-19 pandemic in the country context of Iran. Moreover, the findings highlight that age and gender significantly influenced the extent of this shift in values, while surprisingly no significant value shift was found because of employment or income changes. This article makes a unique contribution by exploring the value shifts towards minimalistic clothing consumption during global crises. Furthermore, the results of the study shed some light on consumption behaviour in an under-researched middle eastern area.","PeriodicalId":41621,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Style & Popular Culture","volume":"12 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2,"publicationDate":"2023-09-07","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"88413320","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":0,"RegionCategory":"","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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