中国民族美食作为文化密码(下)

L. Xiaotao, Svetlana A. Koloda
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摘要

文章的第二部分从烹饪技术和口味方面考察了中国主要的区域饮食文化。中国烹饪中使用的产品分为“基本”(大米、面条、面包和其他谷类产品)和“补充”(肉、鱼、蔬菜、水果等)。作者还强调了地区菜肴在“咸甜”和“酸辣”对立方面的差异。主要有八大地域饮食文化:鲁菜、川菜、粤菜、闽菜、江苏菜、郑江菜、湖南菜、安徽菜。值得注意的是,每个地方的菜都有自己的特点和传统,没有泛中国的经典,很难谈论中国菜的统一性。作者认为美食文化是一种文化文本,有助于通过符号来解释历史和文化意义。本文介绍了中国烹饪的主要文化符号,其中最重要的是语言成分(菜肴命名)。形成民族文化规范的一个重要因素是节日文化,其特定的菜肴反映了节日的历史和神话。节日美食的元素作为神话、传统和信仰的象征,很少基于烹饪方面的考虑,而是更多地基于国家的文化准则。食物成为情况和事件的标志。节日文化最重要和最容易辨认的标志是传统菜肴。有一套特定节日的必备菜肴——婚礼、生日、节日宴会,这取决于特定的庆祝活动。作者考察了中国菜名所包含的某些民族、文化、历史和人种学的空白。
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Chinese national cuisine as a cultural code (Part 2)
The second part of the article examines the major regional food cultures of China in terms of cooking techniques and flavors. The products used in Chinese cuisine are divided into «basic» (rice, noodles, bread, and other cereal products) and « supplementary» (meat, fish, vegetables, fruit, etc.). The author also emphasizes the differences in regional cui-sines in relation to «salty-sweet» and «sour-spicy» oppositions. There are eight main regional food cultures: Shandong cuisine, Sichuan cuisine, Cantonese cuisine, Fujian cuisine, Jiangsu cuisine, Zhengjiang cuisine, Hunan cuisine, Anhui cuisine. It is noted that each regional cuisine has its own characteristics and traditions, there is no pan-Chinese canon and one can hardly talk about the unity of Chinese cuisine. The authors consider gastronomic culture as a cultural text that helps to interpret historical and cultural meanings through symbols. The article presents the main cultural symbols of Chinese cuisine, with the linguistic component (nomination of dishes) being one of the most important. An important factor in forming the national culture code is the festive culture with its specific dishes reflecting the history and my-thology of the holiday. Elements of holiday cuisine as symbols of myths, traditions, and beliefs are less based on culi-nary considerations, but more on the nation's cultural code. Food becomes a sign of situations and events. The most significant and recognizable symbols of festive culture are traditional dishes. There is a set of obligatory dishes for cer-tain holidays - weddings, birthdays, holiday banquets, depending on particular celebrations. The authors examines cer-tain national, cultural, historical, and ethnographic lacunae that the names of Chinese dishes contain.
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