关心(足够)杀死:在埃及农村做肉和吃得好

Noha Fikry
{"title":"关心(足够)杀死:在埃及农村做肉和吃得好","authors":"Noha Fikry","doi":"10.1080/19428200.2023.2230084","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"Click to increase image sizeClick to decrease image size AcknowledgementsI thank Amira Mittermaier, Naisargi Davé, Sara Salih and Zoë Wool for their support during the various phases and renditions of this article.Notes1. Cited in María Puig de la Bellacasa, Matters of Care: Speculative Ethics in More than Human Worlds (Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2017), 3.2. John Hartigan, Care of the Species: Races of Corn and the Science of Plant Biodiversity (Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2017), xvii.3. Cited in Thom Van Doreen, Flight Ways: Life and Loss at the Edge of Extinction (New York: Columbia University Press, 2014), 83.4. Garry Marvin, “Wild Killing: Contesting the Animal in Hunting”, in Killing Animals, ed. The Animal Studies Group (Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 2006), 20.5. Donald Winnicott, Collected Papers: Through Pediatrics in Psychoanalysis (London: Tavistock, 1958), 157–173.6. Cited in Joanna Kellond, Donald Winnicott and the Politics of Care (Cham, Switzerland: Palgrave Macmillan, 2022), 145.7. Sarra Tlili, Animals in the Quran (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2012), 237.8. Tlili, Animals in the Quran, 91.9. Tlili, Animals in the Quran, 253.10. Ibrahim Abdul-Matin, Green Deen: What Islam Teaches about Protecting the Planet (Oakland, CA: Berrett-Koehler Publishers, 2010), 143–144.11. The Quran, 2:168.12. Boğaç Ergene and Febe Armanios, Halal Food: A History (New York: Oxford University Press, 2018), 110.13. During fieldwork, “eating well” always included meat, home-reared trusted meat in particular. Since I shared with my interlocutors that I only eat chickens and no fish or red meat, they repeatedly took me as an example of someone who does not eat well. My interlocutors believed that I would only be able to eat well—thus eat meat—when I rear my own meat and thus trust and know where the meat I eat comes from. It would be interesting to historicize this definition of “well” as it pertains to eating meat within Islamic history. For example, Boğaç Ergene and Febe Armanios pointed out that in the time of prophet Muhammad, animal flesh was a rare source of nourishment: Camels were very prevalent, but they played many roles, and humans only slaughtered them when they had no other alternative. In fact, early Muslims viewed meat with suspicion and associated it with health problems and exuberance. In a medieval commentary, the fourth Sunni Caliph Ali ibn Abi Talib is quoted to have instructed: “Do not allow your stomachs to become graveyards for animals”; Ergene and Armanios, Halal Food: A History, 33.14. Abdul-Matin, Green Deen, 147.15. Ahmed Wally, Grain and Feed Annual: Egypt Is Able to Secure Supply of Grains during the COVID-19 Pandemic (United States Department of Agriculture). Last modified March 17, 2021. https://apps.fas.usda.gov/newgainapi/api/Report/DownloadReportByFileName?fileName = Grain + and + Feed + Annual_Cairo_Egypt_03-15-2021.pdf16. Jen Del Carmen, Egyptian Customers Continue to Benefit from U.S. Soy’s Technical Support, SEC Programs (United States Soybean Export Council). Last modified October 19, 2021. https://ussec.org/egyptian-customers-continue-to-benefit-from-u-s-soys-technical-support-sec-programs/17. U.S. Soybean Export Council, “Egyptian Poultry Customers Appreciate Technical Support from U.S. Soy.” Last Modified December 17, 2018. https://ussec.org/egyptian-poultry-customers-technical-support-u-s-soy/18. Shaza Roushdy, Livestock and Products Annual 2018: Egyptian Beef Prices Stable, Consumption and Imports to Rise in 2019 (United States Department of Agriculture). Last modified September 19, 2018. https://apps.fas.usda.gov/newgainapi/api/report/downloadreportbyfilename?filename = Livestock%20and%20Products%20Annual_Cairo_Egypt_9-19-2018.pdf19. Mariano J. Beillard and Shaza Omar, Livestock and Products Annual 2020 (United States Department of Agriculture). Last modified September 22, 2020. https://apps.fas.usda.gov/newgainapi/api/Report/DownloadReportByFileName?fileName = Livestock%20and%20Products%20Annual_Cairo_Egypt_09-01-202020. Mada Masr, “Egypt Delays Approval for Brazilian Meat Imports after Spoiled Meat Scandal.” Last modified March 23, 2017. https://www.madamasr.com/en/2017/03/23/news/u/egypt-delays-approval-for-brazilian-meat-imports-after-spoiled-meat-scandal/21. Sally Madhvi, “Egypt Stops Buffalo Meat Imports over Pesticide Concerns,” The Economic Times. Last modified November 20, 2020. https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/economy/foreign-trade/egypt-stops-buffalo-meat-imports-over-pesticide-concerns/articleshow/79326052.cms?from = mdr22. Beillard and Omar, Livestock and Products Annual 2020, 6.Additional informationFundingThis work was supported by the Centre for Urban Environments Research Fund at the University of Toronto.Notes on contributorsNoha FikryNoha Fikry is a Ph.D. candidate in Anthropology in the Department of Anthropology, University of Toronto, Toronto, Canada.","PeriodicalId":90439,"journal":{"name":"Anthropology now","volume":null,"pages":null},"PeriodicalIF":0.0000,"publicationDate":"2023-01-02","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Caring (Enough) to Kill: On Making Meat and Eating Well in Rural Egypt\",\"authors\":\"Noha Fikry\",\"doi\":\"10.1080/19428200.2023.2230084\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"Click to increase image sizeClick to decrease image size AcknowledgementsI thank Amira Mittermaier, Naisargi Davé, Sara Salih and Zoë Wool for their support during the various phases and renditions of this article.Notes1. Cited in María Puig de la Bellacasa, Matters of Care: Speculative Ethics in More than Human Worlds (Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2017), 3.2. John Hartigan, Care of the Species: Races of Corn and the Science of Plant Biodiversity (Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2017), xvii.3. Cited in Thom Van Doreen, Flight Ways: Life and Loss at the Edge of Extinction (New York: Columbia University Press, 2014), 83.4. Garry Marvin, “Wild Killing: Contesting the Animal in Hunting”, in Killing Animals, ed. The Animal Studies Group (Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 2006), 20.5. Donald Winnicott, Collected Papers: Through Pediatrics in Psychoanalysis (London: Tavistock, 1958), 157–173.6. Cited in Joanna Kellond, Donald Winnicott and the Politics of Care (Cham, Switzerland: Palgrave Macmillan, 2022), 145.7. Sarra Tlili, Animals in the Quran (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2012), 237.8. Tlili, Animals in the Quran, 91.9. Tlili, Animals in the Quran, 253.10. Ibrahim Abdul-Matin, Green Deen: What Islam Teaches about Protecting the Planet (Oakland, CA: Berrett-Koehler Publishers, 2010), 143–144.11. The Quran, 2:168.12. Boğaç Ergene and Febe Armanios, Halal Food: A History (New York: Oxford University Press, 2018), 110.13. During fieldwork, “eating well” always included meat, home-reared trusted meat in particular. Since I shared with my interlocutors that I only eat chickens and no fish or red meat, they repeatedly took me as an example of someone who does not eat well. My interlocutors believed that I would only be able to eat well—thus eat meat—when I rear my own meat and thus trust and know where the meat I eat comes from. It would be interesting to historicize this definition of “well” as it pertains to eating meat within Islamic history. For example, Boğaç Ergene and Febe Armanios pointed out that in the time of prophet Muhammad, animal flesh was a rare source of nourishment: Camels were very prevalent, but they played many roles, and humans only slaughtered them when they had no other alternative. In fact, early Muslims viewed meat with suspicion and associated it with health problems and exuberance. In a medieval commentary, the fourth Sunni Caliph Ali ibn Abi Talib is quoted to have instructed: “Do not allow your stomachs to become graveyards for animals”; Ergene and Armanios, Halal Food: A History, 33.14. Abdul-Matin, Green Deen, 147.15. Ahmed Wally, Grain and Feed Annual: Egypt Is Able to Secure Supply of Grains during the COVID-19 Pandemic (United States Department of Agriculture). Last modified March 17, 2021. https://apps.fas.usda.gov/newgainapi/api/Report/DownloadReportByFileName?fileName = Grain + and + Feed + Annual_Cairo_Egypt_03-15-2021.pdf16. Jen Del Carmen, Egyptian Customers Continue to Benefit from U.S. Soy’s Technical Support, SEC Programs (United States Soybean Export Council). Last modified October 19, 2021. https://ussec.org/egyptian-customers-continue-to-benefit-from-u-s-soys-technical-support-sec-programs/17. U.S. Soybean Export Council, “Egyptian Poultry Customers Appreciate Technical Support from U.S. Soy.” Last Modified December 17, 2018. https://ussec.org/egyptian-poultry-customers-technical-support-u-s-soy/18. Shaza Roushdy, Livestock and Products Annual 2018: Egyptian Beef Prices Stable, Consumption and Imports to Rise in 2019 (United States Department of Agriculture). Last modified September 19, 2018. https://apps.fas.usda.gov/newgainapi/api/report/downloadreportbyfilename?filename = Livestock%20and%20Products%20Annual_Cairo_Egypt_9-19-2018.pdf19. Mariano J. Beillard and Shaza Omar, Livestock and Products Annual 2020 (United States Department of Agriculture). Last modified September 22, 2020. https://apps.fas.usda.gov/newgainapi/api/Report/DownloadReportByFileName?fileName = Livestock%20and%20Products%20Annual_Cairo_Egypt_09-01-202020. Mada Masr, “Egypt Delays Approval for Brazilian Meat Imports after Spoiled Meat Scandal.” Last modified March 23, 2017. https://www.madamasr.com/en/2017/03/23/news/u/egypt-delays-approval-for-brazilian-meat-imports-after-spoiled-meat-scandal/21. Sally Madhvi, “Egypt Stops Buffalo Meat Imports over Pesticide Concerns,” The Economic Times. Last modified November 20, 2020. https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/economy/foreign-trade/egypt-stops-buffalo-meat-imports-over-pesticide-concerns/articleshow/79326052.cms?from = mdr22. 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引用次数: 0

摘要

感谢Amira Mittermaier、Naisargi dav、Sara Salih和Zoë Wool在本文的各个阶段和版本中给予的支持。引自María Puig de la Bellacasa,关注事项:超越人类世界的投机伦理(明尼阿波利斯:明尼苏达大学出版社,2017),3.2。约翰·哈蒂根:《物种关怀:玉米品种与植物生物多样性科学》(明尼阿波利斯:明尼苏达大学出版社,2017),第18页。引自汤姆·范·多林,《飞行方式:濒临灭绝的生命与损失》(纽约:哥伦比亚大学出版社,2014),83.4页。加里·马文,《野生杀戮:在狩猎中与动物较量》,《杀戮动物》,动物研究小组编辑(厄巴纳:伊利诺伊大学出版社,2006),20.5页。Donald Winnicott,文集:通过精神分析中的儿科(伦敦:Tavistock, 1958), 157-173.6。引自乔安娜·凯隆,唐纳德·温尼科特和关心的政治(Cham,瑞士:Palgrave Macmillan, 2022), 145.7。萨拉·特里利:《古兰经中的动物》(剑桥:剑桥大学出版社,2012),237.8页。《古兰经中的动物》,91.9。《古兰经中的动物》,253.10。易卜拉欣·阿卜杜勒·马丁,《绿色Deen:伊斯兰教如何保护地球》(加州奥克兰:贝雷特-科勒出版社,2010),143-144.11页。《古兰经》2:16 . 8。Boğaç Ergene和Febe Armanios,清真食品:历史(纽约:牛津大学出版社,2018),110.13。在实地考察期间,“吃得好”总是包括肉类,尤其是家庭饲养的可靠肉类。因为我和我的对话者说我只吃鸡,不吃鱼和红肉,他们一再把我当作不吃好的人的例子。我的对话者相信,只有当我自己养肉,相信并知道我吃的肉来自哪里时,我才能吃得好——也就是吃肉。将“好”的定义历史化将是一件有趣的事情,因为它与伊斯兰历史中吃肉有关。例如,Boğaç Ergene和Febe Armanios指出,在先知穆罕默德的时代,动物肉是一种罕见的营养来源:骆驼非常普遍,但它们扮演着许多角色,人类只有在别无选择的情况下才会屠杀它们。事实上,早期的穆斯林对肉类持怀疑态度,并将其与健康问题和繁荣联系在一起。在一篇中世纪的评论中,第四任逊尼派哈里发阿里·伊本·阿比·塔利布(Ali ibn Abi Talib)曾被引述说:“不要让你的胃成为动物的墓地”;Ergene和Armanios,清真食品:历史,33.14。abdul - martin, Green Deen, 147.15。艾哈迈德·沃利,粮食和饲料年度:埃及能够在COVID-19大流行期间确保粮食供应(美国农业部)。最后修改日期:2021年3月17日。https://apps.fas.usda.gov/newgainapi/api/Report/DownloadReportByFileName?fileName =谷物+和+饲料+ Annual_Cairo_Egypt_03-15-2021.pdf16。Jen Del Carmen,埃及客户继续受益于美国大豆出口委员会(SEC)项目的技术支持。最后修改日期:2021年10月19日。https://ussec.org/egyptian-customers-continue-to-benefit-from-u-s-soys-technical-support-sec-programs/17。美国大豆出口委员会,“埃及家禽客户感谢美国大豆的技术支持。”最后修改2018年12月17日。https://ussec.org/egyptian-poultry-customers-technical-support-u-s-soy/18。Shaza Roushdy,《2018年牲畜和产品年鉴:埃及牛肉价格稳定,2019年消费量和进口量将上升》(美国农业部)。最后修改日期:2018年9月19日。https://apps.fas.usda.gov/newgainapi/api/report/downloadreportbyfilename?filename =家畜%20和%20产品%20Mariano J. Beillard和Shaza Omar,牲畜和产品年度2020(美国农业部)。最后修改日期2020年9月22日。https://apps.fas.usda.gov/newgainapi/api/Report/DownloadReportByFileName?fileName =牲畜%20和%20产品%20Annual_Cairo_Egypt_09-01-202020。Mada Masr,“变质肉类丑闻后,埃及推迟批准巴西肉类进口。”最后修改:2017年3月23日。https://www.madamasr.com/en/2017/03/23/news/u/egypt-delays-approval-for-brazilian-meat-imports-after-spoiled-meat-scandal/21。Sally Madhvi,《埃及因农药问题停止进口水牛肉》,《经济时报》。最后修改日期:2020年11月20日https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/economy/foreign-trade/egypt-stops-buffalo-meat-imports-over-pesticide-concerns/articleshow/79326052.cms?from = mdr22。Beillard and Omar,家畜和产品年度2020,6。本研究得到了多伦多大学城市环境研究中心基金的支持。作者简介noha Fikry noha Fikry是加拿大多伦多大学人类学系人类学博士研究生。
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Caring (Enough) to Kill: On Making Meat and Eating Well in Rural Egypt
Click to increase image sizeClick to decrease image size AcknowledgementsI thank Amira Mittermaier, Naisargi Davé, Sara Salih and Zoë Wool for their support during the various phases and renditions of this article.Notes1. Cited in María Puig de la Bellacasa, Matters of Care: Speculative Ethics in More than Human Worlds (Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2017), 3.2. John Hartigan, Care of the Species: Races of Corn and the Science of Plant Biodiversity (Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2017), xvii.3. Cited in Thom Van Doreen, Flight Ways: Life and Loss at the Edge of Extinction (New York: Columbia University Press, 2014), 83.4. Garry Marvin, “Wild Killing: Contesting the Animal in Hunting”, in Killing Animals, ed. The Animal Studies Group (Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 2006), 20.5. Donald Winnicott, Collected Papers: Through Pediatrics in Psychoanalysis (London: Tavistock, 1958), 157–173.6. Cited in Joanna Kellond, Donald Winnicott and the Politics of Care (Cham, Switzerland: Palgrave Macmillan, 2022), 145.7. Sarra Tlili, Animals in the Quran (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2012), 237.8. Tlili, Animals in the Quran, 91.9. Tlili, Animals in the Quran, 253.10. Ibrahim Abdul-Matin, Green Deen: What Islam Teaches about Protecting the Planet (Oakland, CA: Berrett-Koehler Publishers, 2010), 143–144.11. The Quran, 2:168.12. Boğaç Ergene and Febe Armanios, Halal Food: A History (New York: Oxford University Press, 2018), 110.13. During fieldwork, “eating well” always included meat, home-reared trusted meat in particular. Since I shared with my interlocutors that I only eat chickens and no fish or red meat, they repeatedly took me as an example of someone who does not eat well. My interlocutors believed that I would only be able to eat well—thus eat meat—when I rear my own meat and thus trust and know where the meat I eat comes from. It would be interesting to historicize this definition of “well” as it pertains to eating meat within Islamic history. For example, Boğaç Ergene and Febe Armanios pointed out that in the time of prophet Muhammad, animal flesh was a rare source of nourishment: Camels were very prevalent, but they played many roles, and humans only slaughtered them when they had no other alternative. In fact, early Muslims viewed meat with suspicion and associated it with health problems and exuberance. In a medieval commentary, the fourth Sunni Caliph Ali ibn Abi Talib is quoted to have instructed: “Do not allow your stomachs to become graveyards for animals”; Ergene and Armanios, Halal Food: A History, 33.14. Abdul-Matin, Green Deen, 147.15. Ahmed Wally, Grain and Feed Annual: Egypt Is Able to Secure Supply of Grains during the COVID-19 Pandemic (United States Department of Agriculture). Last modified March 17, 2021. https://apps.fas.usda.gov/newgainapi/api/Report/DownloadReportByFileName?fileName = Grain + and + Feed + Annual_Cairo_Egypt_03-15-2021.pdf16. Jen Del Carmen, Egyptian Customers Continue to Benefit from U.S. Soy’s Technical Support, SEC Programs (United States Soybean Export Council). Last modified October 19, 2021. https://ussec.org/egyptian-customers-continue-to-benefit-from-u-s-soys-technical-support-sec-programs/17. U.S. Soybean Export Council, “Egyptian Poultry Customers Appreciate Technical Support from U.S. Soy.” Last Modified December 17, 2018. https://ussec.org/egyptian-poultry-customers-technical-support-u-s-soy/18. Shaza Roushdy, Livestock and Products Annual 2018: Egyptian Beef Prices Stable, Consumption and Imports to Rise in 2019 (United States Department of Agriculture). Last modified September 19, 2018. https://apps.fas.usda.gov/newgainapi/api/report/downloadreportbyfilename?filename = Livestock%20and%20Products%20Annual_Cairo_Egypt_9-19-2018.pdf19. Mariano J. Beillard and Shaza Omar, Livestock and Products Annual 2020 (United States Department of Agriculture). Last modified September 22, 2020. https://apps.fas.usda.gov/newgainapi/api/Report/DownloadReportByFileName?fileName = Livestock%20and%20Products%20Annual_Cairo_Egypt_09-01-202020. Mada Masr, “Egypt Delays Approval for Brazilian Meat Imports after Spoiled Meat Scandal.” Last modified March 23, 2017. https://www.madamasr.com/en/2017/03/23/news/u/egypt-delays-approval-for-brazilian-meat-imports-after-spoiled-meat-scandal/21. Sally Madhvi, “Egypt Stops Buffalo Meat Imports over Pesticide Concerns,” The Economic Times. Last modified November 20, 2020. https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/economy/foreign-trade/egypt-stops-buffalo-meat-imports-over-pesticide-concerns/articleshow/79326052.cms?from = mdr22. Beillard and Omar, Livestock and Products Annual 2020, 6.Additional informationFundingThis work was supported by the Centre for Urban Environments Research Fund at the University of Toronto.Notes on contributorsNoha FikryNoha Fikry is a Ph.D. candidate in Anthropology in the Department of Anthropology, University of Toronto, Toronto, Canada.
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