动物养殖的终结:科学家、企业家和活动家如何建立一个无动物食品系统

B. V. E. Hyde
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As well as denial, David Livingstone Smith (2012) tells us that a common prerequisite to atrocities is dehumanization and the refusal of moral status.The notion of humane factory farming presents numerous challenges, particularly in terms of its practical implementation and scalability. To maintain a consistently high level of animal welfare across the industry, extensive regulations and enforcement mechanisms would be required, including regular independent inspections, livestreamed security footage, and increased allocation of space per animal. Moreover, the system would necessitate a substantial investment in veterinary care and medical supplies as well as the reversal of artificial breeding practices that prioritize rapid production of meat, milk and eggs. Presently, even the most conscientious farms fail to meet these welfare standards, implying that the costs associated with truly humane farming are prohibitively high. Given the projected global population of 10 billion by 2050, it is doubtful that humane animal farming can be feasibly scaled to meet the demands of such a populous world. Consequently, the complete abolition of factory farming seems to be the only viable solution.In The End of Animal Farming, Jacy Reese concerns himself with what to do about animal farming. He does not spend any real effort on making the moral case against it, which he assumes is fairly self-evident, but instead concentrates on solutions.Vegetarianism is one such solution with vegetarian alternatives multiplying rapidly. Plant-based agriculture focuses on producing protein-rich, nutrient-dense foods derived entirely from plants. This approach involves the development of novel food products that replicate the taste, texture, and nutritional profile of animal products without the need for animal farming. Hampton Creek, for example, has created an eggless egg; a reporter for Business Insider said that he was “blown away” and that its taste was “distinctly egg” (Brodwin, 2017). Meat alternatives are improving all the time, but one might be concerned about what improvement actually means. As a writer for Current Affairs also says, “plant-based burgers no longer taste like plants” (Robinson, 2018), suggesting that the determinant of progress is taste, just like the eggless egg was lauded for its tasting of egg. However, correspondence with taste is not a reliable measure of the quality of food. This should be quite evident: In fact, everything that tastes good is bad for us, and everything good for us tastes bad. It would be bizarre to say that energy drinks, filled with sugar and all sorts of clever chemicals designed to emulate flavors, represent improvement in every sense of the term.Other alternatives to animal products are innovative food technologies like cellular agriculture. “A big reason we're going to see the end of animal farming is that it doesn't have to mean the end of meat,” says Reese (p. xii). This is because we are increasingly capable of producing animal products without raising and slaughtering animals. This cutting-edge technology utilizes cell cultures to grow animal tissues, such as muscle and fat, in controlled laboratory environments. The process typically involves extracting a small sample of animal cells, placing them in a nutrient-rich culture medium, and allowing them to multiply and develop into the desired product, such as meat or milk. The resulting product, often referred to as “cultured” or “cell-based” meat, is virtually identical to its conventional counterpart in terms of taste, texture, and nutritional composition but is produced without the need for large-scale animal farming. Mass implementation of cellular agriculture might be too optimistic for now though, with numerous technical challenges, regulatory hurdles, and production costs. Likewise, there is a lack of infrastructure in place to support it on a scale large enough to seriously contend with animal farming. Nor is consumer acceptance anywhere on the horizon.To overcome hesitancy about emerging technologies that provide alternatives to animal farming, activism will be essential. Reese takes quite a militant attitude toward animal activism. He advocates, for one, a focus on trigger events such as food safety scandals, disease outbreaks, or environmental disasters linked to animal farming. These can capture public attention and provide opportunities for activists to raise awareness about the negative impacts of traditional animal agriculture. Furthermore, by leveraging these events, activists can highlight the benefits of alternative food technologies and emphasize the urgent need for change. In conjunction with this, he also recommends utilizing stories before citing statistics about animal agriculture. This is a strategy to appeal to one's emotional rather than rational sensibilities. Haunting tales bring out the gravity of an issue but might leave room for dismissal under the assumption that it is not widespread enough to be a priority. Statistics are what illustrate the scale of a problem, but it is true that it is difficult to motivate with them alone.The issue of animal farming is not an isolated one, however. Reese argues that advocates should engender a broad moral understanding rather than addressing moral issues one by one. This broad understanding, it would seem, is effective altruism. To be an effective altruist is to take a scientific approach to ethics and, specifically, to philanthropy, as William MacAskill explains in Doing Good Better (2015), one of the movement's foundational texts. What effective altruism centers around is the utilitarian principle of doing the greatest good for the greatest number and combines this with a quantificational approach to morality. In practice, this means earning more to give more, then living modestly to give even more and, lastly, choosing the best causes and organizations that will do the most good with your money.It is perhaps his effective altruist motivation that causes Reese to conflate too many issues together as part of his call to take a holistic attitude toward activism. For example, he says that grass-fed cow farming is potentially worse than grain-fed cow farming because it leads to between two and four times more production of methane, a major greenhouse gas. It also takes more land, water, and fossil fuels to produce grass-fed beef. One of the strengths of the animal rights movement is the focus on animal suffering and, as Reese rightly points out, to bring attention this, rather than to mere statistics and other abstract arguments, is perhaps the most effective way of causing systemic change. 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Part of the reason why such an inconsistency can exist between moral consciousness and action is a certain wilful ignorance: 75% of Americans, for example, believe that they only eat meat, dairy, and eggs from humane sources, but more than 99% of animals in the United States live on concentrated animal feeding operations, or factory farms. As well as denial, David Livingstone Smith (2012) tells us that a common prerequisite to atrocities is dehumanization and the refusal of moral status.The notion of humane factory farming presents numerous challenges, particularly in terms of its practical implementation and scalability. To maintain a consistently high level of animal welfare across the industry, extensive regulations and enforcement mechanisms would be required, including regular independent inspections, livestreamed security footage, and increased allocation of space per animal. Moreover, the system would necessitate a substantial investment in veterinary care and medical supplies as well as the reversal of artificial breeding practices that prioritize rapid production of meat, milk and eggs. Presently, even the most conscientious farms fail to meet these welfare standards, implying that the costs associated with truly humane farming are prohibitively high. Given the projected global population of 10 billion by 2050, it is doubtful that humane animal farming can be feasibly scaled to meet the demands of such a populous world. Consequently, the complete abolition of factory farming seems to be the only viable solution.In The End of Animal Farming, Jacy Reese concerns himself with what to do about animal farming. He does not spend any real effort on making the moral case against it, which he assumes is fairly self-evident, but instead concentrates on solutions.Vegetarianism is one such solution with vegetarian alternatives multiplying rapidly. Plant-based agriculture focuses on producing protein-rich, nutrient-dense foods derived entirely from plants. This approach involves the development of novel food products that replicate the taste, texture, and nutritional profile of animal products without the need for animal farming. Hampton Creek, for example, has created an eggless egg; a reporter for Business Insider said that he was “blown away” and that its taste was “distinctly egg” (Brodwin, 2017). Meat alternatives are improving all the time, but one might be concerned about what improvement actually means. As a writer for Current Affairs also says, “plant-based burgers no longer taste like plants” (Robinson, 2018), suggesting that the determinant of progress is taste, just like the eggless egg was lauded for its tasting of egg. However, correspondence with taste is not a reliable measure of the quality of food. This should be quite evident: In fact, everything that tastes good is bad for us, and everything good for us tastes bad. It would be bizarre to say that energy drinks, filled with sugar and all sorts of clever chemicals designed to emulate flavors, represent improvement in every sense of the term.Other alternatives to animal products are innovative food technologies like cellular agriculture. “A big reason we're going to see the end of animal farming is that it doesn't have to mean the end of meat,” says Reese (p. xii). This is because we are increasingly capable of producing animal products without raising and slaughtering animals. This cutting-edge technology utilizes cell cultures to grow animal tissues, such as muscle and fat, in controlled laboratory environments. The process typically involves extracting a small sample of animal cells, placing them in a nutrient-rich culture medium, and allowing them to multiply and develop into the desired product, such as meat or milk. The resulting product, often referred to as “cultured” or “cell-based” meat, is virtually identical to its conventional counterpart in terms of taste, texture, and nutritional composition but is produced without the need for large-scale animal farming. Mass implementation of cellular agriculture might be too optimistic for now though, with numerous technical challenges, regulatory hurdles, and production costs. Likewise, there is a lack of infrastructure in place to support it on a scale large enough to seriously contend with animal farming. Nor is consumer acceptance anywhere on the horizon.To overcome hesitancy about emerging technologies that provide alternatives to animal farming, activism will be essential. Reese takes quite a militant attitude toward animal activism. He advocates, for one, a focus on trigger events such as food safety scandals, disease outbreaks, or environmental disasters linked to animal farming. These can capture public attention and provide opportunities for activists to raise awareness about the negative impacts of traditional animal agriculture. Furthermore, by leveraging these events, activists can highlight the benefits of alternative food technologies and emphasize the urgent need for change. In conjunction with this, he also recommends utilizing stories before citing statistics about animal agriculture. This is a strategy to appeal to one's emotional rather than rational sensibilities. Haunting tales bring out the gravity of an issue but might leave room for dismissal under the assumption that it is not widespread enough to be a priority. Statistics are what illustrate the scale of a problem, but it is true that it is difficult to motivate with them alone.The issue of animal farming is not an isolated one, however. Reese argues that advocates should engender a broad moral understanding rather than addressing moral issues one by one. This broad understanding, it would seem, is effective altruism. To be an effective altruist is to take a scientific approach to ethics and, specifically, to philanthropy, as William MacAskill explains in Doing Good Better (2015), one of the movement's foundational texts. What effective altruism centers around is the utilitarian principle of doing the greatest good for the greatest number and combines this with a quantificational approach to morality. In practice, this means earning more to give more, then living modestly to give even more and, lastly, choosing the best causes and organizations that will do the most good with your money.It is perhaps his effective altruist motivation that causes Reese to conflate too many issues together as part of his call to take a holistic attitude toward activism. For example, he says that grass-fed cow farming is potentially worse than grain-fed cow farming because it leads to between two and four times more production of methane, a major greenhouse gas. It also takes more land, water, and fossil fuels to produce grass-fed beef. One of the strengths of the animal rights movement is the focus on animal suffering and, as Reese rightly points out, to bring attention this, rather than to mere statistics and other abstract arguments, is perhaps the most effective way of causing systemic change. 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引用次数: 2

摘要

人类的历史就是一部道德进步的故事。这一观点最著名的支持者是Steven Pinker(2011)和Michael Shermer(2015)。工厂化养殖可能看起来像是一个反例,但人们非常关注动物伦理,至少在过去的40年里一直如此。道德意识和行为之间存在这种不一致的部分原因是某种故意的无知:例如,75%的美国人认为他们只吃来自人道来源的肉、奶和蛋,但美国99%以上的动物生活在集中的动物饲养操作或工厂化农场。除了否认,David Livingstone Smith(2012)告诉我们,暴行的共同前提是去人性化和对道德地位的拒绝。人性化工厂化养殖的概念提出了许多挑战,特别是在实际实施和可扩展性方面。为了在整个行业保持高水平的动物福利,需要广泛的法规和执法机制,包括定期独立检查,直播安全录像,以及增加每只动物的空间分配。此外,该系统将需要在兽医护理和医疗用品方面进行大量投资,并扭转优先考虑快速生产肉、奶和蛋的人工育种做法。目前,即使是最尽责的农场也达不到这些福利标准,这意味着与真正人道的养殖相关的成本高得令人望而却步。考虑到预计到2050年全球人口将达到100亿,人道的动物养殖是否能够满足如此人口众多的世界的需求,这是值得怀疑的。因此,彻底废除工厂化养殖似乎是唯一可行的解决方案。在《动物养殖的终结》中,杰西·里斯关注的是如何处理动物养殖。他没有花任何真正的精力去提出反对它的道德理由,他认为这是相当不言而喻的,而是专注于解决方案。素食主义就是这样一种解决方案,素食替代品迅速增加。以植物为基础的农业侧重于生产完全来自植物的富含蛋白质、营养丰富的食物。这种方法涉及开发新的食品,复制动物产品的味道、质地和营养成分,而不需要动物养殖。例如,Hampton Creek发明了一种无蛋蛋;《商业内幕》的一名记者表示,他“被震撼了”,它的味道“明显是鸡蛋味”(Brodwin, 2017)。肉类替代品一直在改进,但人们可能会关心改进的实际意义。正如《时事》的一位作家所说,“植物汉堡不再像植物一样吃”(Robinson, 2018),这表明进步的决定因素是味道,就像没有鸡蛋的鸡蛋因为尝起来像鸡蛋而受到称赞一样。然而,味觉的一致性并不是衡量食物质量的可靠标准。这应该是很明显的:事实上,所有好吃的东西对我们来说都是不好的,而所有对我们来说好的东西尝起来都是不好的。如果说能量饮料中充满了糖和各种巧妙的化学物质来模仿味道,代表了这个术语在各个意义上的改进,那将是很奇怪的。动物产品的其他替代品是创新的食品技术,如细胞农业。“我们将看到动物养殖终结的一个重要原因是,这并不一定意味着肉类的终结,”里斯说(第十二页)。这是因为我们越来越有能力在不饲养和屠宰动物的情况下生产动物产品。这项尖端技术利用细胞培养在受控的实验室环境中培养动物组织,如肌肉和脂肪。这一过程通常包括提取一小部分动物细胞样本,将它们置于营养丰富的培养基中,然后让它们繁殖并发育成所需的产品,如肉或奶。由此产生的产品,通常被称为“培养的”或“基于细胞的”肉,在味道、质地和营养成分方面几乎与传统的同类产品相同,但不需要大规模的动物养殖。然而,大规模实施蜂窝农业目前可能过于乐观,存在许多技术挑战、监管障碍和生产成本。同样,也缺乏足够规模的基础设施来支持它与动物养殖相抗衡。消费者也不会马上接受。要克服对提供替代畜牧业的新兴技术的犹豫,行动主义将是必不可少的。里斯对动物保护主义持相当激进的态度。比如,他主张关注食品安全丑闻、疾病爆发或与畜牧业有关的环境灾难等触发事件。 这些可以吸引公众的注意力,并为活动人士提供机会,提高人们对传统畜牧业负面影响的认识。此外,通过利用这些事件,活动人士可以强调替代食品技术的好处,并强调变革的迫切需要。与此同时,他还建议在引用动物农业的统计数据之前利用故事。这是一种诉诸情感而非理性的策略。令人难以忘怀的故事凸显了一个问题的严重性,但如果认为它还不够普遍,不足以成为优先考虑的问题,可能会给人们留下忽视的余地。统计数据说明了问题的严重程度,但事实是,仅凭统计数据很难激发人们的积极性。然而,动物养殖问题并不是一个孤立的问题。里斯认为,倡议者应该产生广泛的道德理解,而不是一个一个地解决道德问题。这种广泛的理解似乎是有效的利他主义。要成为一名有效的利他主义者,就要对道德,特别是慈善事业采取科学的态度,正如威廉·麦卡斯基尔在该运动的基础文本之一《做得更好》(2015年)中所解释的那样。有效利他主义的核心是为大多数人做最大的好事的功利主义原则,并将其与道德的量化方法相结合。在实践中,这意味着赚更多的钱来给予更多,然后适度生活来给予更多,最后,选择最好的事业和组织,用你的钱做最好的事情。也许是他有效的利他主义动机导致里斯把太多的问题混为一谈,作为他呼吁对行动主义采取整体态度的一部分。例如,他说,草饲奶牛养殖可能比谷物喂养的奶牛养殖更糟糕,因为它导致甲烷(一种主要的温室气体)的产量增加两到四倍。生产草饲牛肉也需要更多的土地、水和化石燃料。动物权利运动的优势之一是关注动物的痛苦,正如里斯正确指出的那样,让人们注意到这一点,而不是仅仅关注统计数据和其他抽象的论点,这可能是引发系统性变革的最有效方式。像这样转向环境问题是对他的书的最好品质的否定。
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The End of Animal Farming: How Scientists, Entrepreneurs, and Activists Are Building an Animal-Free Food System
The history of humankind is a story of moral progress. The most notable proponents of this position are Steven Pinker (2011) and Michael Shermer (2015). Factory farming might look like a counterexample to this, but people are very concerned about animal ethics and have been for at least the last 40 years. Part of the reason why such an inconsistency can exist between moral consciousness and action is a certain wilful ignorance: 75% of Americans, for example, believe that they only eat meat, dairy, and eggs from humane sources, but more than 99% of animals in the United States live on concentrated animal feeding operations, or factory farms. As well as denial, David Livingstone Smith (2012) tells us that a common prerequisite to atrocities is dehumanization and the refusal of moral status.The notion of humane factory farming presents numerous challenges, particularly in terms of its practical implementation and scalability. To maintain a consistently high level of animal welfare across the industry, extensive regulations and enforcement mechanisms would be required, including regular independent inspections, livestreamed security footage, and increased allocation of space per animal. Moreover, the system would necessitate a substantial investment in veterinary care and medical supplies as well as the reversal of artificial breeding practices that prioritize rapid production of meat, milk and eggs. Presently, even the most conscientious farms fail to meet these welfare standards, implying that the costs associated with truly humane farming are prohibitively high. Given the projected global population of 10 billion by 2050, it is doubtful that humane animal farming can be feasibly scaled to meet the demands of such a populous world. Consequently, the complete abolition of factory farming seems to be the only viable solution.In The End of Animal Farming, Jacy Reese concerns himself with what to do about animal farming. He does not spend any real effort on making the moral case against it, which he assumes is fairly self-evident, but instead concentrates on solutions.Vegetarianism is one such solution with vegetarian alternatives multiplying rapidly. Plant-based agriculture focuses on producing protein-rich, nutrient-dense foods derived entirely from plants. This approach involves the development of novel food products that replicate the taste, texture, and nutritional profile of animal products without the need for animal farming. Hampton Creek, for example, has created an eggless egg; a reporter for Business Insider said that he was “blown away” and that its taste was “distinctly egg” (Brodwin, 2017). Meat alternatives are improving all the time, but one might be concerned about what improvement actually means. As a writer for Current Affairs also says, “plant-based burgers no longer taste like plants” (Robinson, 2018), suggesting that the determinant of progress is taste, just like the eggless egg was lauded for its tasting of egg. However, correspondence with taste is not a reliable measure of the quality of food. This should be quite evident: In fact, everything that tastes good is bad for us, and everything good for us tastes bad. It would be bizarre to say that energy drinks, filled with sugar and all sorts of clever chemicals designed to emulate flavors, represent improvement in every sense of the term.Other alternatives to animal products are innovative food technologies like cellular agriculture. “A big reason we're going to see the end of animal farming is that it doesn't have to mean the end of meat,” says Reese (p. xii). This is because we are increasingly capable of producing animal products without raising and slaughtering animals. This cutting-edge technology utilizes cell cultures to grow animal tissues, such as muscle and fat, in controlled laboratory environments. The process typically involves extracting a small sample of animal cells, placing them in a nutrient-rich culture medium, and allowing them to multiply and develop into the desired product, such as meat or milk. The resulting product, often referred to as “cultured” or “cell-based” meat, is virtually identical to its conventional counterpart in terms of taste, texture, and nutritional composition but is produced without the need for large-scale animal farming. Mass implementation of cellular agriculture might be too optimistic for now though, with numerous technical challenges, regulatory hurdles, and production costs. Likewise, there is a lack of infrastructure in place to support it on a scale large enough to seriously contend with animal farming. Nor is consumer acceptance anywhere on the horizon.To overcome hesitancy about emerging technologies that provide alternatives to animal farming, activism will be essential. Reese takes quite a militant attitude toward animal activism. He advocates, for one, a focus on trigger events such as food safety scandals, disease outbreaks, or environmental disasters linked to animal farming. These can capture public attention and provide opportunities for activists to raise awareness about the negative impacts of traditional animal agriculture. Furthermore, by leveraging these events, activists can highlight the benefits of alternative food technologies and emphasize the urgent need for change. In conjunction with this, he also recommends utilizing stories before citing statistics about animal agriculture. This is a strategy to appeal to one's emotional rather than rational sensibilities. Haunting tales bring out the gravity of an issue but might leave room for dismissal under the assumption that it is not widespread enough to be a priority. Statistics are what illustrate the scale of a problem, but it is true that it is difficult to motivate with them alone.The issue of animal farming is not an isolated one, however. Reese argues that advocates should engender a broad moral understanding rather than addressing moral issues one by one. This broad understanding, it would seem, is effective altruism. To be an effective altruist is to take a scientific approach to ethics and, specifically, to philanthropy, as William MacAskill explains in Doing Good Better (2015), one of the movement's foundational texts. What effective altruism centers around is the utilitarian principle of doing the greatest good for the greatest number and combines this with a quantificational approach to morality. In practice, this means earning more to give more, then living modestly to give even more and, lastly, choosing the best causes and organizations that will do the most good with your money.It is perhaps his effective altruist motivation that causes Reese to conflate too many issues together as part of his call to take a holistic attitude toward activism. For example, he says that grass-fed cow farming is potentially worse than grain-fed cow farming because it leads to between two and four times more production of methane, a major greenhouse gas. It also takes more land, water, and fossil fuels to produce grass-fed beef. One of the strengths of the animal rights movement is the focus on animal suffering and, as Reese rightly points out, to bring attention this, rather than to mere statistics and other abstract arguments, is perhaps the most effective way of causing systemic change. Turning to environmental concerns like this is an abnegation of the best qualities of his book.
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