不要浪费?快速反应和升级再造对环境的影响

Xiaoyang Long, Luyi Gui
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引用次数: 0

摘要

问题定义:过度生产经常被认为是时尚产业最大的环境问题,因为纺织品生产是众所周知的资源密集型和污染型产业,而且生产的大部分纺织品最终可能成为 "库存 "面料或滞销成品。在本文中,我们研究了解决这一问题的两种主要方法:快速反应法,即根据需求补充成品库存;升级再造法,即重新利用库存织物制作新衣服。这些策略的支持者通常关注其对下游供应链阶段(如成品生产和废物处理)的积极环境影响。然而,我们对这些策略对上游活动(如原材料采购)的影响知之甚少。方法/结果:我们分析了快速反应和升级再造方案对企业面料采购和生产决策的影响,以及企业采取这些策略的动机。然后,我们在生命周期框架内评估了这些策略对环境的影响。我们的结果表明,单独实施快速反应可减少成品库存,但会增加面料采购量。这不仅会导致更多的库存总量(包括成品和面料),还会加重时装供应链上游面料生产对环境造成的负担,并可能导致整个行业对环境产生更严重的影响。升级再造和快速反应可减轻库存总量,但会进一步增加企业对面料的需求。我们分析了两种政策--补贴快速反应/升级再造和禁止销毁库存--在减少库存和抑制企业对面料需求方面的有效性。对管理的影响:我们的研究强调了减少下游库存和获取上游面料之间的权衡,并表明旨在减少本地库存的地区政策往往会对全球产生不利影响:在线附录见 https://doi.org/10.1287/msom.2022.0040 。
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Waste Not Want Not? The Environmental Implications of Quick Response and Upcycling
Problem definition: Overproduction is often cited as the fashion industry’s biggest environmental issue, as textile production is notoriously resource intensive and pollutive, and much of the textile produced may end up as “deadstock” fabric or finished goods that do not sell. In this paper, we study two major approaches to address this issue: quick response, whereby finished goods inventory is replenished on demand, and upcycling, whereby deadstock fabric is reused to make new clothes. Proponents of these strategies typically focus on their positive environmental impact in downstream supply chain stages (e.g., finished goods production and waste disposal). Less is known, however, about their impact on upstream activities such as raw material acquisition, which we investigate in this work. Methodology/results: We analyze the effect of quick response and upcycling options on firms’ fabric acquisition and production decisions, as well as firms’ incentives to adopt these strategies. We then assess these strategies’ environmental impact in a life cycle framework. Our results show that quick response—when implemented in isolation—reduces deadstock of finished goods, but could increase the amount of fabric acquired. This not only results in more total deadstock (in both finished goods and fabric form), but also aggravates the environmental burden associated with fabric production in the upstream of the fashion supply chain, and could lead to a worse overall environmental impact for the industry. Upcycling together with quick response could alleviate total deadstock generation, but further increases the firm’s demand for fabric. We analyze the effectiveness of two types of policies—subsidizing quick response/upcycling and banning deadstock destruction—in reducing deadstock and curbing firms’ need for fabric. Managerial implications: Our work highlights a tradeoff between downstream deadstock reduction and upstream fabric acquisition, and suggests that regional policies that aim to reduce local deadstock could often have adverse global impacts.Supplemental Material: The online appendices are available at https://doi.org/10.1287/msom.2022.0040 .
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