用根染法将丝绸染成埃迪尔内红色

İsmail Yüce, Nilgün Becenen
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摘要

蚕丝是从蚕蛾中提取的天然长丝,纤维长度可达 3000 米。在埃迪尔内的奥斯曼帝国时代,养蚕和丝绸贸易是重要的活动。为此,人们建立了丝绸工厂、贸易中心和丝织学校,为埃迪尔内人民创造了重要的收入来源。埃迪尔内红是从茜草中提取的天然染料,是奥斯曼帝国遗产的一部分。这种染料耐晒耐洗。它被用于土耳其地毯以及丝绸和棉织品。本研究的目的是汇集埃迪尔内红和丝绸在埃迪尔内历史中的重要性。为此,使用埃迪尔内省境内种植的茜草(Rubia Tinctorum L.)对 100% 的丝织物进行了染色。在染色过程中,研究了所使用的染料比例和辅助化学品对颜色和色牢度的影响。织物的色值在 CIEL*a*b* 色彩空间中进行了数值测量,染色织物的耐洗牢度和耐光牢度也进行了测量。此外,还对使用过的茜草和染色织物进行了高效液相色谱(HPLC)分析。根据所获得的数据,在染色前对织物进行预搀杂,并使用乙醇作为染料溶剂,可以获得最接近埃迪尔内红的颜色。在不同条件下成功地将茜草染料应用于丝织物,在得色率和牢度特性方面都取得了良好的效果。
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İpeğin Kök Boya İle Edirne Kırmızısı Rengine Boyanması
Silk is a natural filament obtained from the Bombyx mori species of silkworm, with a fiber length of up to 3000 meters. During the Ottoman era in Edirne, sericulture and silk trade were important activities. To this end, silk factories, trade centers, and silk weaving schools were established, creating an important source of income for the people of Edirne. Edirne Red is a natural dye obtained from the Rubia Tinctorum L. plant and is part of the Ottoman Empire's heritage. This dye is resistant to sunlight and washing. It has been used in Turkish carpets, as well as in silk and cotton fabrics. The aim of this study is to bring together the importance of Edirne Red and silk in Edirne's history. For this purpose, 100% silk fabrics were dyed using madder (Rubia Tinctorum L.) grown within the borders of Edirne province. The effects of dye ratios and auxiliary chemicals used on color and colorfastness were examined during the dyeing process. The color values of the fabrics were measured numerically in the CIEL*a*b* color space, and the washing and light fastness values of the dyed fabrics were also measured. Additionally, high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analyses were performed on both the used madder and the dyed fabric. Based on the obtained data, the closest Edirne Red color was achieved by pre-mordanting fabric before dyeing and using ethanol as the dye solvent. Madder dye, successfully applied to silk fabrics under different conditions, has shown good results in terms of color yield and fastness properties.
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