通过着装商讨脆弱性和吸引力。

IF 1.1 4区 医学 Q4 GERIATRICS & GERONTOLOGY Zeitschrift Fur Gerontologie Und Geriatrie Pub Date : 2024-07-01 Epub Date: 2024-05-16 DOI:10.1007/s00391-024-02312-5
Julia Hahmann, Miranda Leontowitsch
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引用次数: 0

摘要

背景:衰老的女性身体特别容易受到社会的注视。虽然女性的身体应保持健美、耐久、迷人和令人向往,但也有可能因为所谓的过于年轻或过于离奇的表现而受到嘲笑。女性的服装实践既可以符合社会期望,也可以规避社会期望,还可以积极抗议社会期望,并有可能改变社会需求。在这一过程的每一个部分,即身体变化的体验、社会期望的体验、消费者的选择、服装的实践以及对服装选择的反应,身体和着装都成为新的脆弱感的场所:本文探讨了这些脆弱性如何在老年妇女的着装实践中表现出来,如何在服装的物质性和着装实践中表达出来:通过脆弱性的视角重新审视了一项采用情景分析方法、半结构式访谈和照片征集的研究数据:本文介绍了脆弱性的不同方面。受访者不得不接受身体的变化,并对自己的着装方式做出安排,而这又可能与主观和社会对规范女性的期望相冲突。在这一默认的过程中,产生了新的脆弱性;然而,受访者制定的服装策略使她们体验到了自身的吸引力。她们还必须适应不断变化的环境,以展现自己因年龄而具有的时尚魅力:实践者在讨论性别服装实践时,可以通过传记工作等方式来解决脆弱感问题。
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Negotiating vulnerability and attractiveness through dress.

Background: The ageing female body is particularly exposed to the social gaze. While it should remain fit and durable as well as attractive and desirable, there is the danger of ridicule through supposedly too youthful or too outlandish performance. Women's clothing practices can conform to social expectations, can circumvent them, can actively protest against them, and possibly change social demands. In every part of the process, i.e., the experience of bodily changes, the experience of social expectations, consumer choices, the practices of clothing and reactions to clothing choices, the body and getting dressed becomes a site of new feelings of vulnerability.

Objective: This article asks how these vulnerabilities are presented in the clothing practices of older women, are expressed in the materiality of clothes and in the practices of getting dressed.

Material and methods: Data from a study that followed a situational analysis methodology and used semi-structured interviews and photo elicitation, were re-examined through the lens of vulnerability.

Results: Different aspects to vulnerability are presented in this article. Interviewees had to come to terms with bodily changes and made arrangement to the way they dressed that in turn could collide with subjective and social expectations of normative femininity. In this process of acquiescing, new vulnerabilities were produced; however, interviewees developed clothing strategies that provided them with experiences of their own attractiveness. They also had to adapt to changing circumstances to present themselves as fashionable and attractive due to age.

Conclusion: Practitioners can address feelings of vulnerabilities when talking about gendered clothing practices, for example through biographical work.

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来源期刊
CiteScore
2.00
自引率
16.70%
发文量
126
审稿时长
6-12 weeks
期刊介绍: The fact that more and more people are becoming older and are having a significant influence on our society is due to intensive geriatric research and geriatric medicine in the past and present. The Zeitschrift für Gerontologie und Geriatrie has contributed to this area for many years by informing a broad spectrum of interested readers about various developments in gerontology research. Special issues focus on all questions concerning gerontology, biology and basic research of aging, geriatric research, psychology and sociology as well as practical aspects of geriatric care. Target group: Geriatricians, social gerontologists, geriatric psychologists, geriatric psychiatrists, nurses/caregivers, nurse researchers, biogerontologists in geriatric wards/clinics, gerontological institutes, and institutions of teaching and further or continuing education.
期刊最新文献
Mitteilungen der DGG. Mitteilungen der DGGG. Mitteilungen der ÖGGG. Mitteilungen des BV Geriatrie. [Human dignity and autonomy in medicoethical decisions at the end of life].
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