榄香烯球茎的抗氧化潜力及其在局部化妆品乳液中的应用

IF 3.4 Q2 BIOCHEMISTRY & MOLECULAR BIOLOGY Cosmetics Pub Date : 2024-07-06 DOI:10.3390/cosmetics11040111
Nattakan Panyachariwat, Ampa Jimtaisong, N. Saewan
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引用次数: 0

摘要

据报道,鳞茎榄香素是一种有效的食品抗氧化剂。本研究旨在提取鳞茎榄香素作为化妆品中的抗氧化剂。水、95%乙醇(EtOH)和丙二醇(PG)通常用于化妆品配方,被用作绿色和可持续的提取溶剂。与水相比,EtOH 和 PG 能更好地提取鳞茎叶中的活性成分,而与 EtOH 或 PG 相比,EtOH 和 PG 的混合物(EtOH/PG)能提取出更多的生物活性化合物和生物活性。EtOH/PG 提取物的总酚含量为 87.60 ± 2.00 mgGAE/mL,比使用单一 EtOH 或 PG(70.91 ± 2.30、74.05 ± 0.67 mgGAE/mL)时增加了约 18-23%。UHPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS/MS分析表明,用EtOH/PG提取的鳞茎叶中含有萘类、萘醌类、蒽醌类、杨梅素、槲皮素、表儿茶素、儿茶素、表儿茶素及其衍生物。乙醇粗提取物具有抗弹性蛋白酶和抗胶原酶活性,其 IC50 分别为 7.76 ± 0.35 和 0.53 ± 0.23 mg/mL,在 0.0001-1 mg/mL浓度下对人真皮成纤维细胞无细胞毒性。在 4 °C、环境温度(30-35 °C)、45 °C、荧光灯和日光下进行了为期一个月的稳定性测试,结果表明含有 2%(重量/湿重)球茎花叶酢浆草浓缩提取物的乳霜具有良好的化妆品稳定性。然而,白天暴露在日光下会导致乳液颜色发生变化,ΔE*为 3.85 ± 0.08,45 °C时会导致乳液的 DPPH 活性降低 12%。这项研究结果提高了鳞茎叶在化妆品中的抗氧化性和安全性。
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Antioxidative Potentials of Eleutherine bulbosa Bulb and Its Utilization in Topical Cosmetic Emulsion
The Eleutherine bulbosa bulb has been reported as a potent antioxidant in food. This work aims to extract the E. bulbosa bulb for use as an antioxidative agent in cosmetics. Water, 95% ethanol (EtOH), and propylene glycol (PG), which are normally used in cosmetic formulation, were employed as green and sustainable extraction solvents. EtOH and PG displayed better candidacy to extract active components from E. bulbosa bulbs than using water, and the mixture of EtOH and PG (EtOH/PG) resulted in the extract with higher bioactive compounds and biological activities compared with using EtOH or PG. The total phenolic content of the EtOH/PG extract was 87.60 ± 2.00 mgGAE/mL which was about an 18–23% increase from when using single EtOH or PG (70.91 ± 2.30, 74.05 ± 0.67 mgGAE/mL). UHPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS/MS analysis showed that the E. bulbosa bulb extracted in EtOH/PG was composed of naphthalenes, naphthoquinones, anthraquinones, myricetin, quercetin, epicatechin, catechin, epigallocatechin, and their derivatives. The ethanolic crude extract exhibited anti-elastase and anti-collagenase activity with the IC50 of 7.76 ± 0.35 and 0.53 ± 0.23 mg/mL, respectively, and was non-cytotoxic to human dermal fibroblast cells at 0.0001–1 mg/mL. The emulsion cream containing 2%(w/w) E. bulbosa bulb concentrated extract was found cosmetically stable after a one-month stability test under 4 °C, ambient temperature (30–35 °C), 45 °C, fluorescent light, and daylight. However, exposure to sunlight during daytime caused changes in the emulsion’s color with ΔE* of 3.85 ± 0.08, and at 45 °C caused the 12% decrease in DPPH activity of emulsion. The finding of this work heightens the antioxidative and safety potentials of the E. bulbosa bulb in cosmetic preparations.
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来源期刊
Cosmetics
Cosmetics Medicine-Surgery
CiteScore
5.20
自引率
12.10%
发文量
108
审稿时长
8 weeks
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