Computations of energetic nearshore waves: Are weakly dispersive phase-resolving models telling the same story?

Three phase-resolving weakly dispersive wave models are used for 2DH (2D depth-integrated) computations of large-scale wave-by-wave processes induced by highly energetic sea/swell (SS) forcing near Haleʻiwa on the North Shore of Oʻahu, Hawaiʻi. The computed model results are compared to observations obtained over a nearshore cross-reef transect and from the basin of a small boat harbor. The level of agreement between the model results and observations in complex coastal environments under highly energetic wave forcing, along with the qualitative consistency among the three models, makes these models good candidates for operational applications in nearshore environments exposed to energetic wave forcing conditions.

Spectral analyses inside the harbor and over the reef indicate that all three models generally account for infragravity (IG) spatial modal structures that are consistent with observations and the theory of edge and leaky waves. Over the reef, auto- and cross-spectral analyses reveal that the dominant waveforms are qualitatively reproduced by all three models, as indicated through: (i) the growth of IG wave amplitudes from deeper water to the shallow reef sites; (ii) the agreement of power spectral density peaks at the nearshore locations; and (iii) the remarkable similarity of spatial coherence functions among the models and between the models and observations. The computations of swell entering the small boat harbor at Haleʻiwa demonstrate that the models can successfully reproduce the variability in the narrow IG frequency bands that are spatially dependent and often subject to resonant amplifications.