Pub Date : 2026-01-27DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104965
Rut Romero-Martín , Johan Reyns , Ali Dastgheib , Roshanka Ranasinghe , José A. Jiménez
This study quantifies shoreline retreat for multiple sea-level rise (SLR) projections at two contrasting sites along the Spanish Mediterranean coast: the Llobregat delta and Maresme beaches. The Llobregat delta comprises mildly sloped dissipative beaches, while the Maresme coast is characterized by steeper coarse-sediment beaches. Using the probabilistic PCR model, which incorporates both the effects of the long-term wave climate and Sea level rise, we evaluate site-specific responses and compare outcomes with the widely used Bruun rule. The Bruun rule overestimates retreat by up to 70 % at Llobregat compared to PCR projections under the SSP5-8.5 scenario. At the same time, the results of the two approaches converge at Maresme for both SSPs considered, both at 2050 and 2100. Thus, the discrepancies between the two approaches appear to be larger at sites with milder slopes. The PCR model projects an accelerating retreat from mid-century, reflecting strong nonlinear interactions between future hydrodynamic forcing and storm erosion. These findings underscore the potential pitfalls of relying solely on Bruun rule derived projections for local scale coastal adaptation planning. Moreover, they highlight how PCR model derived physics based, probabilistic projections of shoreline retreat could lead to more informed and effective decisions on local scale adaptation along vulnerable coastlines.
{"title":"Climate change-driven shoreline change along the Catalan coast (NW Mediterranean): A probabilistic approach for risk-informed coastal management","authors":"Rut Romero-Martín , Johan Reyns , Ali Dastgheib , Roshanka Ranasinghe , José A. Jiménez","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104965","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104965","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This study quantifies shoreline retreat for multiple sea-level rise (SLR) projections at two contrasting sites along the Spanish Mediterranean coast: the Llobregat delta and Maresme beaches. The Llobregat delta comprises mildly sloped dissipative beaches, while the Maresme coast is characterized by steeper coarse-sediment beaches. Using the probabilistic PCR model, which incorporates both the effects of the long-term wave climate and Sea level rise, we evaluate site-specific responses and compare outcomes with the widely used Bruun rule. The Bruun rule overestimates retreat by up to 70 % at Llobregat compared to PCR projections under the SSP5-8.5 scenario. At the same time, the results of the two approaches converge at Maresme for both SSPs considered, both at 2050 and 2100. Thus, the discrepancies between the two approaches appear to be larger at sites with milder slopes. The PCR model projects an accelerating retreat from mid-century, reflecting strong nonlinear interactions between future hydrodynamic forcing and storm erosion. These findings underscore the potential pitfalls of relying solely on Bruun rule derived projections for local scale coastal adaptation planning. Moreover, they highlight how PCR model derived physics based, probabilistic projections of shoreline retreat could lead to more informed and effective decisions on local scale adaptation along vulnerable coastlines.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"206 ","pages":"Article 104965"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2026-01-27","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"146080723","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2026-01-23DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104952
Jayasekara R. Jayasekara , Kellen Doyle , Myung Jin Koh , Sabarethinam Kameshwar , Hyoungsu Park , Daniel Cox , Pedro Lomonaco
This study aims to understand tsunami-driven debris damming mechanisms by quantifying the debris dam characteristics, including their effects on damming forces, and assessing the key influencing factors of debris, flow, and the built environment that define debris dam characteristics. Experiments were conducted at a 1:20 scale to mimic tsunami-driven debris damming at an isolated column structure. The test combinations consisted of six wave conditions, three column arrangements, and two types of debris shipping containers. Dam characteristics, including dam volume and the number of debris objects in the dam, were measured through visual measurements, while the submerged frontal area of the dam was estimated using a photogrammetric method. Corresponding loads were measured on the entire structure and an individual column in the front row using a force balance plate and a multi-axial load cell, respectively. As per findings, the submerged frontal area, later converted to the blockage ratio, has the highest correlation with the increased damming load on the structure. The mechanisms leading to debris damming were determined through the effects on the blockage ratio by three interaction types: debris-debris, debris-flow, and debris-flow-structure interactions. Out of three interactions, debris-flow-structure interactions were found to be the highest influential mechanism leading to debris damming. As individual parameters, debris characteristic length, initial debris volume, closure ratio of structure, and relative size of debris were identified as positively contributing factors to increasing the blockage ratio, while higher Froude number of waves, debris dispersion, and debris velocity can decrease the blockage ratio.
{"title":"Experimental investigation of mechanisms leading to tsunami-driven debris damming on elevated structures","authors":"Jayasekara R. Jayasekara , Kellen Doyle , Myung Jin Koh , Sabarethinam Kameshwar , Hyoungsu Park , Daniel Cox , Pedro Lomonaco","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104952","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104952","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>This study aims to understand tsunami-driven debris damming mechanisms by quantifying the debris dam characteristics, including their effects on damming forces, and assessing the key influencing factors of debris, flow, and the built environment that define debris dam characteristics. Experiments were conducted at a 1:20 scale to mimic tsunami-driven debris damming at an isolated column structure. The test combinations consisted of six wave conditions, three column arrangements, and two types of debris shipping containers. Dam characteristics, including dam volume and the number of debris objects in the dam, were measured through visual measurements, while the submerged frontal area of the dam was estimated using a photogrammetric method. Corresponding loads were measured on the entire structure and an individual column in the front row using a force balance plate and a multi-axial load cell, respectively. As per findings, the submerged frontal area, later converted to the blockage ratio, has the highest correlation with the increased damming load on the structure. The mechanisms leading to debris damming were determined through the effects on the blockage ratio by three interaction types: debris-debris, debris-flow, and debris-flow-structure interactions. Out of three interactions, debris-flow-structure interactions were found to be the highest influential mechanism leading to debris damming. As individual parameters, debris characteristic length, initial debris volume, closure ratio of structure, and relative size of debris were identified as positively contributing factors to increasing the blockage ratio, while higher Froude number of waves, debris dispersion, and debris velocity can decrease the blockage ratio.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"206 ","pages":"Article 104952"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2026-01-23","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"146080660","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2026-01-22DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104962
Junbao Huang , Peng Yun , Yu Han , Qing Lyu , Huayu Chen , Zengfeng Li , Jiali Gu , Jian Zeng , Zhenming Ge
Hardened, flat concrete seawalls generally cause the degradation of coastal environment and habitat quality, resulting in low marine biodiversity. Therefore, it's timely to mitigate the adverse impacts of traditional seawalls and enhance the ecological function of coast construction. In Eastern China, we investigated the effects of tidal elevation levels and eco-engineered seawall revetments, i.e., surface-treated (surface-roughened, hole-punched, and shell-embedded), on the richness and biodiversity of marine organisms. During the observation period, Mollusca, Arthropoda, and algae were the dominant species attaching on the experimental seawall blocks. In total, 8, 18, and 10 species of marine organisms were found colonizing the blocks at high, mid, and low tidal levels, respectively, exhibiting a convex binomial trend. Due to high evaporation rate of seawater remaining on the blocks at high-tide level, the lowest species number, organism abundance, and biodiversity were observed. The taxon richness and biodiversity indices were the highest at mid-tide level, whereas their values decreased at low-tide level because of intensive flooding and sediment deposition. Furthermore, the surface-treated blocks enhanced species numbers, organism abundance, and biodiversity indices of attached marine organisms relative to the untreated flat blocks. The hole-punched and shell-embedded blocks supported the greatest values of taxon richness of attaching organisms, while the effect of simple roughening treatments was relatively weak. At low tidal elevation, the biodiversity indices on the shell-embedded blocks were higher than those on the hole-punched blocks. This in situ experiment revealed that tidal elevation, surface habitat heterogeneity and water-holding ability are the crucial factors controlling marine biodiversity. As oyster shells are a safe and plentiful bioresource in China, we recommend using them for constructing nature-based seawall revetments. The results obtained in this study provide experimental evidence for optimizing the ecological functions of seawalls to ensure the synergistic benefits of coastal protection and biodiversity maintenance.
{"title":"Ecologically engineered seawall revetments for enhancing marine biodiversity: elevation and design options","authors":"Junbao Huang , Peng Yun , Yu Han , Qing Lyu , Huayu Chen , Zengfeng Li , Jiali Gu , Jian Zeng , Zhenming Ge","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104962","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104962","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Hardened, flat concrete seawalls generally cause the degradation of coastal environment and habitat quality, resulting in low marine biodiversity. Therefore, it's timely to mitigate the adverse impacts of traditional seawalls and enhance the ecological function of coast construction. In Eastern China, we investigated the effects of tidal elevation levels and eco-engineered seawall revetments, i.e., surface-treated (surface-roughened, hole-punched, and shell-embedded), on the richness and biodiversity of marine organisms. During the observation period, Mollusca, Arthropoda, and algae were the dominant species attaching on the experimental seawall blocks. In total, 8, 18, and 10 species of marine organisms were found colonizing the blocks at high, mid, and low tidal levels, respectively, exhibiting a convex binomial trend. Due to high evaporation rate of seawater remaining on the blocks at high-tide level, the lowest species number, organism abundance, and biodiversity were observed. The taxon richness and biodiversity indices were the highest at mid-tide level, whereas their values decreased at low-tide level because of intensive flooding and sediment deposition. Furthermore, the surface-treated blocks enhanced species numbers, organism abundance, and biodiversity indices of attached marine organisms relative to the untreated flat blocks. The hole-punched and shell-embedded blocks supported the greatest values of taxon richness of attaching organisms, while the effect of simple roughening treatments was relatively weak. At low tidal elevation, the biodiversity indices on the shell-embedded blocks were higher than those on the hole-punched blocks. This <em>in situ</em> experiment revealed that tidal elevation, surface habitat heterogeneity and water-holding ability are the crucial factors controlling marine biodiversity. As oyster shells are a safe and plentiful bioresource in China, we recommend using them for constructing nature-based seawall revetments. The results obtained in this study provide experimental evidence for optimizing the ecological functions of seawalls to ensure the synergistic benefits of coastal protection and biodiversity maintenance.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"206 ","pages":"Article 104962"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2026-01-22","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"146015810","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2026-01-21DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104953
Xianghui Dong , Qingxiang Liu , Grant A. Smith , Ian R. Young , Huy Quang Tran , Rui Li , Jian Sun , Kejian Wu , Alexander V. Babanin
A wave-coupled movable bottom friction (WCMBF) scheme that accounts for sediment grain size () and ripple evolution is developed for spectral wave modeling. Building upon a physic-based approach (i.e., RIPPLE), the scheme is refined using additional observations to improve its applicability and robustness. Compared with existing schemes (e.g., JONSWAP and SHOWEX), WCMBF offers a more physically based representation of bottom friction. Its main advantage lies in determining the wave friction factor () through ripple evolution under varying conditions, with larger leading to increased bottom friction dissipation. The WCMBF scheme is implemented in WAVEWATCH III, with a spatially varying map as a key input. It is evaluated through two case studies: Port Phillip Bay in 2023 and the Great Australian Bight in May 1984. The results confirm the scheme’s reliable and effective performance. Further spectral analyses show that WCMBF reasonably enhances bottom friction dissipation in the low-frequency range (), contributing to its relative advantage over the JONSWAP and SHOWEX schemes.
{"title":"A wave-coupled movable bottom friction scheme for spectral wave modeling based on sediment grain size and ripple evolution","authors":"Xianghui Dong , Qingxiang Liu , Grant A. Smith , Ian R. Young , Huy Quang Tran , Rui Li , Jian Sun , Kejian Wu , Alexander V. Babanin","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104953","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104953","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>A wave-coupled movable bottom friction (WCMBF) scheme that accounts for sediment grain size (<span><math><msub><mrow><mi>D</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>50</mn></mrow></msub></math></span>) and ripple evolution is developed for spectral wave modeling. Building upon a physic-based approach (i.e., RIPPLE), the scheme is refined using additional observations to improve its applicability and robustness. Compared with existing schemes (e.g., JONSWAP and SHOWEX), WCMBF offers a more physically based representation of bottom friction. Its main advantage lies in determining the wave friction factor (<span><math><msub><mrow><mi>f</mi></mrow><mrow><mi>w</mi></mrow></msub></math></span>) through ripple evolution under varying <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>D</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>50</mn></mrow></msub></math></span> conditions, with larger <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>D</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>50</mn></mrow></msub></math></span> leading to increased bottom friction dissipation. The WCMBF scheme is implemented in WAVEWATCH III, with a spatially varying <span><math><msub><mrow><mi>D</mi></mrow><mrow><mn>50</mn></mrow></msub></math></span> map as a key input. It is evaluated through two case studies: Port Phillip Bay in 2023 and the Great Australian Bight in May 1984. The results confirm the scheme’s reliable and effective performance. Further spectral analyses show that WCMBF reasonably enhances bottom friction dissipation in the low-frequency range (<span><math><mrow><mi>f</mi><mo><</mo><mn>0</mn><mo>.</mo><mn>1</mn><mspace></mspace><mi>Hz</mi></mrow></math></span>), contributing to its relative advantage over the JONSWAP and SHOWEX schemes.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"206 ","pages":"Article 104953"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2026-01-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"146080659","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2026-01-21DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104954
Francisco J. Sáez , Patricio A. Catalán , Carlos Valle , A. Spicer Bak , Raúl P. Flores , Florent Fournier , Sebastián Veliz
Wave breaking is a fundamental process in the nearshore zone. Yet, due to its chaotic nature, automatically identifying its spatio-temporal occurrence on a wave-by-wave basis remains a challenge. To address this, a generalized machine learning-based methodology is proposed for detecting wave-breaking events across a wide range of environmental and hydrodynamic conditions. The approach builds on a previously trained U-Net architecture using curated data for Duck (USA), which is extended using Transfer Learning (TL) and Human-in-the-Loop (HITL) techniques, enabling effective model adaptation to new coastal sites and conditions with minimal labeled data. The methodology is tested at three distinct locations: Duck, North Carolina (USA); the mouth of the Maipo River in San Antonio (Chile); and Saint-Pierre Beach, at Palavas-les-Flots (France). In addition, three types of users of varying proficiency are considered to assess how easy it would be to adopt the methodology. The resulting models achieve accuracies in wave breaking identification between 80% and 90%, depending on the site, with qualitative assessments confirming robust performance even under challenging conditions, such as variable lighting and wave-structure interaction. The open-source implementation aims to facilitate community use and adaptation. As a result, accurate identification of breaking patterns is expected to be a valuable tool for advancing our understanding of nearshore processes.
{"title":"A generalized method based on transfer learning and human-in-the-loop for wave-by-wave identification of nearshore wave breaking patterns","authors":"Francisco J. Sáez , Patricio A. Catalán , Carlos Valle , A. Spicer Bak , Raúl P. Flores , Florent Fournier , Sebastián Veliz","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104954","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104954","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Wave breaking is a fundamental process in the nearshore zone. Yet, due to its chaotic nature, automatically identifying its spatio-temporal occurrence on a wave-by-wave basis remains a challenge. To address this, a generalized machine learning-based methodology is proposed for detecting wave-breaking events across a wide range of environmental and hydrodynamic conditions. The approach builds on a previously trained U-Net architecture using curated data for Duck (USA), which is extended using Transfer Learning (TL) and Human-in-the-Loop (HITL) techniques, enabling effective model adaptation to new coastal sites and conditions with minimal labeled data. The methodology is tested at three distinct locations: Duck, North Carolina (USA); the mouth of the Maipo River in San Antonio (Chile); and Saint-Pierre Beach, at Palavas-les-Flots (France). In addition, three types of users of varying proficiency are considered to assess how easy it would be to adopt the methodology. The resulting models achieve accuracies in wave breaking identification between 80% and 90%, depending on the site, with qualitative assessments confirming robust performance even under challenging conditions, such as variable lighting and wave-structure interaction. The open-source implementation aims to facilitate community use and adaptation. As a result, accurate identification of breaking patterns is expected to be a valuable tool for advancing our understanding of nearshore processes.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"206 ","pages":"Article 104954"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2026-01-21","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"146080795","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2026-01-20DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104950
Sindhu Sreeranga , Shuang Song , Nicholas Wei Jie Mak , Peter Alan Todd , Jiarui Lei
Understanding the mechanical and morphological adaptation of mangrove seedlings under wave forcing is essential for effective coastal restoration. This study investigates the dynamic response and structural integrity of Rhizophora mangle saplings exposed to regular wave forcing (H = 4–10 cm; T = 0.8–1.4 s), both with and without protection by portable reef. A damping oscillator model incorporating stem elasticity, damping ratio, and wave kinematics accurately predicted tip displacement and higher-order vibrational modes. Among six saplings with co-measured stiffness, the Higher-Order Count (HOC) correlated significantly with the Keulegan Carpenter number (ρ = 0.51, p < 0.001), indicating dynamic response sensitivity to flow unsteadiness. Morphological assessments revealed no statistically significant differences in aboveground traits across treatments, even after prolonged exposure. However, root mechanical integrity was markedly affected by wave forcing. Saplings directly exposed to waves exhibited reduced uprooting strength (mean = 3.71 N), while those shielded by the portable reef maintained root strength equivalent to unforced controls (mean ≈ 8.9 N). These findings suggest that portable reefs preserve belowground anchorage without compromising structural development. These results underscore the value of integrating wave-exposure dynamics and protective structures into hybrid coastal protection strategies that support both structural integrity and adaptive flexibility in mangrove saplings.
了解红树林幼苗在波浪胁迫下的机械和形态适应对有效的海岸恢复至关重要。本研究研究了在有和没有移动礁体保护的情况下，受规则波浪强迫（H = 4-10 cm; T = 0.8-1.4 s）影响时，根参树苗的动力响应和结构完整性。结合阀杆弹性、阻尼比和波动运动学的阻尼振荡器模型能准确预测阀杆位移和高阶振动模式。在共测刚度的6棵树苗中，高阶计数（HOC）与Keulegan Carpenter数显著相关（ρ = 0.51, p < 0.001），表明动态响应对流动不稳定的敏感性。形态评估显示，即使在长时间暴露后，不同处理的地上性状也没有统计学上的显著差异。然而，波浪力对根的力学完整性有显著影响。直接暴露在波浪下的树苗根系强度降低（平均= 3.71 N），而被移动礁石遮挡的树苗根系强度与非强制对照相当（平均≈8.9 N）。这些发现表明，可移动珊瑚礁在不影响结构发展的情况下保留了地下锚地。这些结果强调了将波浪暴露动力学和保护结构整合到混合海岸保护策略中的价值，这些策略支持红树林树苗的结构完整性和适应性灵活性。
{"title":"Wave-induced swaying of Rhizophora mangle saplings and implications for hybrid coastal protection","authors":"Sindhu Sreeranga , Shuang Song , Nicholas Wei Jie Mak , Peter Alan Todd , Jiarui Lei","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104950","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104950","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Understanding the mechanical and morphological adaptation of mangrove seedlings under wave forcing is essential for effective coastal restoration. This study investigates the dynamic response and structural integrity of <em>Rhizophora mangle</em> saplings exposed to regular wave forcing (H = 4–10 cm; T = 0.8–1.4 s), both with and without protection by portable reef. A damping oscillator model incorporating stem elasticity, damping ratio, and wave kinematics accurately predicted tip displacement and higher-order vibrational modes. Among six saplings with co-measured stiffness, the Higher-Order Count (HOC) correlated significantly with the Keulegan Carpenter number (ρ = 0.51, <em>p</em> < 0.001), indicating dynamic response sensitivity to flow unsteadiness. Morphological assessments revealed no statistically significant differences in aboveground traits across treatments, even after prolonged exposure. However, root mechanical integrity was markedly affected by wave forcing. Saplings directly exposed to waves exhibited reduced uprooting strength (mean = 3.71 N), while those shielded by the portable reef maintained root strength equivalent to unforced controls (mean ≈ 8.9 N). These findings suggest that portable reefs preserve belowground anchorage without compromising structural development. These results underscore the value of integrating wave-exposure dynamics and protective structures into hybrid coastal protection strategies that support both structural integrity and adaptive flexibility in mangrove saplings.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"206 ","pages":"Article 104950"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2026-01-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"146026180","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2026-01-20DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104951
Mazen Hoballah Jalloul , Ramish Satari , Alexander Schendel , Mario Welzel , Nils B. Kerpen , Jan Visscher , Insa Neuweiler , Torsten Schlurmann
Monopiles are the most commonly used offshore wind foundation structures in Europe. Given how scour affect their stability and life-time performance, literature is rich in formulating and testing of equations capable of predicting equilibrium scour depth and time scale. However, considerable inaccuracies occur when applying prevailing scour prediction approaches to larger scales. This mismatch is partly due to a lack in reliable data gained from large scale experiments. A parameter that significantly increases in large scale experiments is the pile Reynolds number. The influence of the pile Reynolds number has been previously overlooked and neglected from integration in design formulae, despite its influence on how the horseshoe and lee-wake vortex systems interact with the sediment bed. In this study, two new experimental data sets (with pile diameters of 0.12/0.20 m and 0.57 m) covering a pile Reynolds number range of for combined wave and current loading are presented and complemented with data from previous studies. Using the comprehensive data set that comprises more than 100 points, the proposed time scale equation for a pile Reynolds number greater than improves the from 0.14 to 0.70 when the pile Reynolds number is incorporated. Furthermore, an improved equilibrium scour depth equation is proposed, reaching an of 0.67 for all data points.
{"title":"The influence of the pile Reynolds number on monopile scour prediction across experimental length scales under combined wave-current loading","authors":"Mazen Hoballah Jalloul , Ramish Satari , Alexander Schendel , Mario Welzel , Nils B. Kerpen , Jan Visscher , Insa Neuweiler , Torsten Schlurmann","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104951","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104951","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Monopiles are the most commonly used offshore wind foundation structures in Europe. Given how scour affect their stability and life-time performance, literature is rich in formulating and testing of equations capable of predicting equilibrium scour depth and time scale. However, considerable inaccuracies occur when applying prevailing scour prediction approaches to larger scales. This mismatch is partly due to a lack in reliable data gained from large scale experiments. A parameter that significantly increases in large scale experiments is the pile Reynolds number. The influence of the pile Reynolds number has been previously overlooked and neglected from integration in design formulae, despite its influence on how the horseshoe and lee-wake vortex systems interact with the sediment bed. In this study, two new experimental data sets (with pile diameters of 0.12/0.20 m and 0.57 m) covering a pile Reynolds number range of <span><math><mrow><mn>1.4</mn><mo>×</mo><msup><mn>10</mn><mn>4</mn></msup><mspace></mspace><mi>t</mi><mi>o</mi><mspace></mspace><mn>4.4</mn><mo>×</mo><msup><mn>10</mn><mn>5</mn></msup></mrow></math></span> for combined wave and current loading are presented and complemented with data from previous studies. Using the comprehensive data set that comprises more than 100 points, the proposed time scale equation for a pile Reynolds number greater than <span><math><mrow><mn>2.5</mn><mo>×</mo><msup><mn>10</mn><mn>4</mn></msup></mrow></math></span> improves the <span><math><mrow><msup><mi>R</mi><mn>2</mn></msup></mrow></math></span> from 0.14 to 0.70 when the pile Reynolds number is incorporated. Furthermore, an improved equilibrium scour depth equation is proposed, reaching an <span><math><mrow><msup><mi>R</mi><mn>2</mn></msup></mrow></math></span> of 0.67 for all data points.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"206 ","pages":"Article 104951"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2026-01-20","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"146015756","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2026-01-17DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104949
Junwei Ye, Deping Cao
Flexible structures offer a cost-effective, environmentally friendly, and easily installable solution for coastal protection. This study numerically investigates the interaction between a solitary wave and a submerged vertical elastic plate using a fully coupled computational fluid dynamics (CFD) and computational solid mechanics (CSM) model. Model reliability was confirmed via a mesh convergence study, turbulence model selection and validation against existing experimental and numerical data. The effects of key parameters such as incident wave height, stiffness coefficient, mass coefficient, and Poisson's ratio were systematically examined. Results indicate that the incident wave height governs the degree of nonlinearity in the interaction, while the stiffness coefficient is the key structural parameter: its increase effectively reduces plate displacement and horizontal force but increases wave transmission and reflection coefficients. The mass coefficient exhibits negligible influence within the studied parametric range. Poisson's ratio shows limited sensitivity on wave coefficients but significantly affects structural responses (displacement and horizontal force). Based on the parametric study, a set of empirical formulae was developed to predict the wave transmission coefficient, reflection coefficient, peak horizontal load, and maximum horizontal displacement. These formulae provide a beneficial predictive tool for the design and performance assessment of submerged flexible structures.
{"title":"Numerical investigation of solitary wave interaction with a vertical elastic submerged plate","authors":"Junwei Ye, Deping Cao","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104949","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104949","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Flexible structures offer a cost-effective, environmentally friendly, and easily installable solution for coastal protection. This study numerically investigates the interaction between a solitary wave and a submerged vertical elastic plate using a fully coupled computational fluid dynamics (CFD) and computational solid mechanics (CSM) model. Model reliability was confirmed via a mesh convergence study, turbulence model selection and validation against existing experimental and numerical data. The effects of key parameters such as incident wave height, stiffness coefficient, mass coefficient, and Poisson's ratio were systematically examined. Results indicate that the incident wave height governs the degree of nonlinearity in the interaction, while the stiffness coefficient is the key structural parameter: its increase effectively reduces plate displacement and horizontal force but increases wave transmission and reflection coefficients. The mass coefficient exhibits negligible influence within the studied parametric range. Poisson's ratio shows limited sensitivity on wave coefficients but significantly affects structural responses (displacement and horizontal force). Based on the parametric study, a set of empirical formulae was developed to predict the wave transmission coefficient, reflection coefficient, peak horizontal load, and maximum horizontal displacement. These formulae provide a beneficial predictive tool for the design and performance assessment of submerged flexible structures.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"205 ","pages":"Article 104949"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2026-01-17","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"146037516","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Over the past decades, seagrasses have drastically declined worldwide, reducing their capacity to regulate flow conditions. Intertidal species have been particularly affected by this decline, yet there is limited understanding of how intertidal seagrass loss influences hydrodynamics in shallow coastal lagoons. In this study, we use a 3D flow-vegetation model that accounts for vegetation effect on mean and turbulent flow, as well as flow-induced leaf bending, to investigate how tidal hydrodynamics respond to seasonal and multi-decadal changes in intertidal seagrass characteristics. The model is applied to the Arcachon lagoon (France), colonized by extensive Zostera noltei and Zostera marina meadows. This study reveals that a short-leaf and flexible seagrass species such as Zostera noltei can regulate tidal hydrodynamics throughout the lagoon due to the presence of broad and dense meadows on the tidal flats. In summer, seagrass decline leads to a significant increase in the 75th percentile in bottom flow velocities (+100 %) on the tidal flats, but to a decrease in the channels (−20 %). However, in winter, the response of tidal hydrodynamics to the reduction in seagrass coverage is far less pronounced. Comparison of simulated scenarios reveals that the multi-decadal decline of Zostera meadows with summer characteristics and the seasonal loss between summer and winter lead to modifications in tidal-flow parameters (current velocities, tidal asymmetry, high-tide water level) of a comparable magnitude. These changes in hydrodynamics likely enhance suspended sediment concentration, reducing light availability, contributing to further seagrass loss, and modifying sediment management for stakeholders due to enhanced siltation in channels.
{"title":"Drastic changes in tidal hydrodynamics following seagrass decline and their seasonal variations in a shallow lagoon","authors":"Arnaud Le Pevedic , Mathis Cognat , Aldo Sottolichio , Florian Ganthy","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104948","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2026.104948","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Over the past decades, seagrasses have drastically declined worldwide, reducing their capacity to regulate flow conditions. Intertidal species have been particularly affected by this decline, yet there is limited understanding of how intertidal seagrass loss influences hydrodynamics in shallow coastal lagoons. In this study, we use a 3D flow-vegetation model that accounts for vegetation effect on mean and turbulent flow, as well as flow-induced leaf bending, to investigate how tidal hydrodynamics respond to seasonal and multi-decadal changes in intertidal seagrass characteristics. The model is applied to the Arcachon lagoon (France), colonized by extensive <em>Zostera noltei</em> and <em>Zostera marina</em> meadows. This study reveals that a short-leaf and flexible seagrass species such as <em>Zostera noltei</em> can regulate tidal hydrodynamics throughout the lagoon due to the presence of broad and dense meadows on the tidal flats. In summer, seagrass decline leads to a significant increase in the 75th percentile in bottom flow velocities (+100 %) on the tidal flats, but to a decrease in the channels (−20 %). However, in winter, the response of tidal hydrodynamics to the reduction in seagrass coverage is far less pronounced. Comparison of simulated scenarios reveals that the multi-decadal decline of <em>Zostera</em> meadows with summer characteristics and the seasonal loss between summer and winter lead to modifications in tidal-flow parameters (current velocities, tidal asymmetry, high-tide water level) of a comparable magnitude. These changes in hydrodynamics likely enhance suspended sediment concentration, reducing light availability, contributing to further seagrass loss, and modifying sediment management for stakeholders due to enhanced siltation in channels.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"205 ","pages":"Article 104948"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2026-01-13","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145976563","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
Pub Date : 2026-01-08DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104946
Ad Reniers , Gal Akrish , Marcel Zijlema
Accurate prediction of Wave-Group-Forced (WGF) InfraGravity (IG) waves depends on resolving the corresponding phase shift, typically achieved through a coupled phase – amplitude equation. However, this approach requires a grid resolution that resolves the structure of the wave groups making it computationally expensive at regional scales.
To address this limitation, an existing local expression for the phase shift of normally incident WGF-IG waves has been extended to account for directional seas. The extended formulation is verified against predictions from the coupled phase – amplitude model using bichromatic wave forcing over a uniformly sloping beach for a wide range of sea-swell conditions. Results show that the local approach performs well in the off-resonant region for obliquely incident waves. When applied outside this regime, however, its accuracy decreases, with performance varying depending on sea-swell and bathymetric conditions.
The coupled and local phase shift approaches are also validated with observations obtained during the Coast3D field experiment. The total, incoming and outgoing IG waves are predicted with comparable skill and root mean square error for both methods. The good match using the local expression is attributed to the fact that the conditions during Coast3D correspond to directionally broad sea-swell spectra with relative short peak periods propagating over moderately sloping bathymetry for which the verification showed significant skill. Additional validation with field observations at other locations are necessary to firmly determine the limitations of the use of a local phase shift.
{"title":"A local phase-shift approach for predicting wave-group-forced infragravity waves under directional seas","authors":"Ad Reniers , Gal Akrish , Marcel Zijlema","doi":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104946","DOIUrl":"10.1016/j.coastaleng.2025.104946","url":null,"abstract":"<div><div>Accurate prediction of Wave-Group-Forced (WGF) InfraGravity (IG) waves depends on resolving the corresponding phase shift, typically achieved through a coupled phase – amplitude equation. However, this approach requires a grid resolution that resolves the structure of the wave groups making it computationally expensive at regional scales.</div><div>To address this limitation, an existing local expression for the phase shift of normally incident WGF-IG waves has been extended to account for directional seas. The extended formulation is verified against predictions from the coupled phase – amplitude model using bichromatic wave forcing over a uniformly sloping beach for a wide range of sea-swell conditions. Results show that the local approach performs well in the off-resonant region for obliquely incident waves. When applied outside this regime, however, its accuracy decreases, with performance varying depending on sea-swell and bathymetric conditions.</div><div>The coupled and local phase shift approaches are also validated with observations obtained during the Coast3D field experiment. The total, incoming and outgoing IG waves are predicted with comparable skill and root mean square error for both methods. The good match using the local expression is attributed to the fact that the conditions during Coast3D correspond to directionally broad sea-swell spectra with relative short peak periods propagating over moderately sloping bathymetry for which the verification showed significant skill. Additional validation with field observations at other locations are necessary to firmly determine the limitations of the use of a local phase shift.</div></div>","PeriodicalId":50996,"journal":{"name":"Coastal Engineering","volume":"205 ","pages":"Article 104946"},"PeriodicalIF":4.5,"publicationDate":"2026-01-08","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":null,"resultStr":null,"platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":"145976564","PeriodicalName":null,"FirstCategoryId":null,"ListUrlMain":null,"RegionNum":2,"RegionCategory":"工程技术","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":"","EPubDate":null,"PubModel":null,"JCR":null,"JCRName":null,"Score":null,"Total":0}
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