伪装和服装的起源。

IF 2.2 2区 社会学 Q1 ANTHROPOLOGY Human Nature-An Interdisciplinary Biosocial Perspective Pub Date : 2021-12-01 Epub Date: 2021-10-13 DOI:10.1007/s12110-021-09415-7
William Buckner
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引用次数: 5

摘要

体温调节通常被认为是服装起源背后的一个关键激励因素。然而,在体温调节需求之外的背景下,传统社会中服装的生产和使用受到的关注较少。在这里,我调查了人类关系领域文件(HRAF)世界文化数据库中的概率样本文件(PSF)中10个狩猎采集社会对伪装、谦虚覆盖物和防身衣的使用,特别关注伪装案例以及它们与其他分类群的欺骗策略的比较。伪装的使用——定义为为了欺骗同类或其他动物而改变自己的外表——在10个社会中有8个被注意到,它们的使用发生在狩猎、宗教或邪教活动、战争或人际暴力的背景下。大多数狩猎采集者的伪装都与其他物种的视觉欺骗有明显的相似之处,大多数例子都符合动物模仿、伪装成植物、破坏性色彩(伪装)或背景匹配(伪装)的类别,而人类特有的伪装则涉及模仿特定文化的“灵魂生物”。此外,还注意到以端庄为目的的服装(9个协会)和防弹衣(6个协会)。我认为,个人或群体伪装或隐藏自己的战略举措可能是服装文化演变的一种初步途径。可能有多种潜在的(非排他性的)社会和功能途径导致体温调节需求之外的服装的出现。
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Disguises and the Origins of Clothing.

Thermoregulation is often thought to be a key motivating factor behind the origins of clothing. Less attention has been given, however, to the production and use of clothing across traditional societies in contexts outside of thermoregulatory needs. Here I investigate the use of disguises, modesty coverings, and body armor among the 10 hunter-gatherer societies in the Probability Sample Files (PSF) within the Human Relations Area Files (HRAF) World Cultures database, with a particular focus on disguise cases and how they compare with strategies of deception across other taxa. The employment of disguises-defined as altering one's appearance for purposes of deceiving conspecifics or other animals-is noted for eight of the 10 societies, with their use occurring in contexts of hunting, religious or cult practices, and war or interpersonal violence. Most hunter-gatherer disguises demonstrated clear similarities to cases of visual deception found in other species, with the majority of examples fitting categories of animal mimicry, masquerading as plants, disruptive coloration (camouflage), or background matching (camouflage), while disguises unique to humans involved the impersonation of culture-specific "spirit-beings." Clothing for modesty purposes (nine societies) and body armor (six societies) are also noted. I propose that strategic initiatives by individuals or groups to disguise or conceal themselves represents one possible initial pathway to the cultural evolution of clothing. There are likely multiple potential (nonexclusive) social and functional pathways to the emergence of clothing outside of thermoregulatory needs.

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来源期刊
CiteScore
3.70
自引率
8.00%
发文量
14
期刊介绍: Human Nature is dedicated to advancing the interdisciplinary investigation of the biological, social, and environmental factors that underlie human behavior. It focuses primarily on the functional unity in which these factors are continuously and mutually interactive. These include the evolutionary, biological, and sociological processes as they interact with human social behavior; the biological and demographic consequences of human history; the cross-cultural, cross-species, and historical perspectives on human behavior; and the relevance of a biosocial perspective to scientific, social, and policy issues.
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