{"title":"转录和相对新颖性:Virgil Abloh的设计策略","authors":"Andrzej Leśniak","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2047290","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Virgil Abloh’s design strategies are among the most recognizable in the current fashion world. This paper aims at exploring the American designer’s relevance and relates his practice to contemporary theorizations of creativity. By focusing on Abloh’s ways of creating the new, the article argues that Pyrex Vision, Off-White, and Louis Vuitton men’s collection garments, footwear, and accessories blend the participatory culture of Instagram and other internet platforms with strategies of modern art. Appropriation, mounting, and other techniques of reusing preexisting forms, materials, and signs provide both a moment of recognition of what is known, as well as an element of novelty which is a necessary prerequisite of a product in the ecosystem of social media-driven attention deficit. The author concludes by analyzing Abloh’s practice within the context of the emergence of the enrichment economy.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"26 1","pages":"821 - 837"},"PeriodicalIF":0.7000,"publicationDate":"2022-03-09","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Transcriptions and Relative Novelty: Virgil Abloh’s Design Strategies\",\"authors\":\"Andrzej Leśniak\",\"doi\":\"10.1080/1362704X.2022.2047290\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"Abstract Virgil Abloh’s design strategies are among the most recognizable in the current fashion world. This paper aims at exploring the American designer’s relevance and relates his practice to contemporary theorizations of creativity. By focusing on Abloh’s ways of creating the new, the article argues that Pyrex Vision, Off-White, and Louis Vuitton men’s collection garments, footwear, and accessories blend the participatory culture of Instagram and other internet platforms with strategies of modern art. Appropriation, mounting, and other techniques of reusing preexisting forms, materials, and signs provide both a moment of recognition of what is known, as well as an element of novelty which is a necessary prerequisite of a product in the ecosystem of social media-driven attention deficit. The author concludes by analyzing Abloh’s practice within the context of the emergence of the enrichment economy.\",\"PeriodicalId\":51687,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture\",\"volume\":\"26 1\",\"pages\":\"821 - 837\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":0.7000,\"publicationDate\":\"2022-03-09\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"1085\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2047290\",\"RegionNum\":4,\"RegionCategory\":\"社会学\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"0\",\"JCRName\":\"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2022.2047290","RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"0","JCRName":"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY","Score":null,"Total":0}
Transcriptions and Relative Novelty: Virgil Abloh’s Design Strategies
Abstract Virgil Abloh’s design strategies are among the most recognizable in the current fashion world. This paper aims at exploring the American designer’s relevance and relates his practice to contemporary theorizations of creativity. By focusing on Abloh’s ways of creating the new, the article argues that Pyrex Vision, Off-White, and Louis Vuitton men’s collection garments, footwear, and accessories blend the participatory culture of Instagram and other internet platforms with strategies of modern art. Appropriation, mounting, and other techniques of reusing preexisting forms, materials, and signs provide both a moment of recognition of what is known, as well as an element of novelty which is a necessary prerequisite of a product in the ecosystem of social media-driven attention deficit. The author concludes by analyzing Abloh’s practice within the context of the emergence of the enrichment economy.
期刊介绍:
The importance of studying the body as a site for the deployment of discourses is well-established in a number of disciplines. By contrast, the study of fashion has, until recently, suffered from a lack of critical analysis. Increasingly, however, scholars have recognized the cultural significance of self-fashioning, including not only clothing but also such body alterations as tattooing and piercing. Fashion Theory takes as its starting point a definition of “fashion” as the cultural construction of the embodied identity. It provides an interdisciplinary forum for the rigorous analysis of cultural phenomena ranging from footbinding to fashion advertising.