转录和相对新颖性:Virgil Abloh的设计策略

IF 0.7 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-03-09 DOI:10.1080/1362704X.2022.2047290
Andrzej Leśniak
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引用次数: 0

摘要

维吉尔·阿布洛(Virgil Abloh)的设计策略是当今时尚界最知名的设计策略之一。本文旨在探讨美国设计师的相关性,并将其实践与当代创意理论联系起来。通过关注Abloh创造新事物的方式,文章认为Pyrex Vision、Off-White和Louis Vuitton男装系列服装、鞋类和配饰将Instagram等互联网平台的参与性文化与现代艺术的策略相结合。挪用、安装和其他重用已有形式、材料和标志的技术既提供了对已知事物的认可,也提供了一种新颖性元素,这是社交媒体驱动的注意力缺失生态系统中产品的必要先决条件。最后,作者在富裕经济出现的背景下分析了阿布洛的实践。
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Transcriptions and Relative Novelty: Virgil Abloh’s Design Strategies
Abstract Virgil Abloh’s design strategies are among the most recognizable in the current fashion world. This paper aims at exploring the American designer’s relevance and relates his practice to contemporary theorizations of creativity. By focusing on Abloh’s ways of creating the new, the article argues that Pyrex Vision, Off-White, and Louis Vuitton men’s collection garments, footwear, and accessories blend the participatory culture of Instagram and other internet platforms with strategies of modern art. Appropriation, mounting, and other techniques of reusing preexisting forms, materials, and signs provide both a moment of recognition of what is known, as well as an element of novelty which is a necessary prerequisite of a product in the ecosystem of social media-driven attention deficit. The author concludes by analyzing Abloh’s practice within the context of the emergence of the enrichment economy.
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来源期刊
CiteScore
2.10
自引率
10.00%
发文量
41
期刊介绍: The importance of studying the body as a site for the deployment of discourses is well-established in a number of disciplines. By contrast, the study of fashion has, until recently, suffered from a lack of critical analysis. Increasingly, however, scholars have recognized the cultural significance of self-fashioning, including not only clothing but also such body alterations as tattooing and piercing. Fashion Theory takes as its starting point a definition of “fashion” as the cultural construction of the embodied identity. It provides an interdisciplinary forum for the rigorous analysis of cultural phenomena ranging from footbinding to fashion advertising.
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