数字3D时装设计师:阿塔卡奇与设计师案例

IF 0.7 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2021-10-11 DOI:10.1080/1362704X.2021.1981657
Natalia Särmäkari
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引用次数: 10

摘要

摘要“数字时尚”现象最近被媒体报道为时尚行业的下一个重要步骤。3D软件在服装设计过程中的日益使用是更广泛的“时尚4.0”数字化过程的一部分。本文阐述了数字时尚的现象,并对阿塔卡奇和the Fabricant这一领域的两家先驱公司进行了深入的案例研究。他们是如何以及为什么在数字3D设计上建立自己的时装设计实践的?这些公司是如何重新定义时装设计文化和时装设计师的?本文从职业社会学的角度出发,提出数字时尚是时尚设计领域中一个新兴的子领域,它与职业惯例不同,并构建了新的管辖和合法化策略。在社会技术启示和通过道德、概念、艺术和技能差异提升职业自豪感的驱动下,数字时装设计师也成为了一名数字工匠。在日益虚拟或“物理数字”的空间和数字时尚的网络协同社区中,设计师的职业、作者、身体和物质边界变得流动,改变了传统的时装设计师形象。
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Digital 3D Fashion Designers: Cases of Atacac and The Fabricant
Abstract The phenomenon of “digital fashion” has been lately addressed in media as the next significant step in the fashion industry. The increasing use of the 3D-software in fashion design processes is part of a wider “fashion 4.0” digitalization process. This article frames the phenomenon of digital fashion and presents an in-depth case study research on two pioneering companies in this area, Atacac and The Fabricant. How and why are they building their fashion design practice on digital 3D-design? How are these companies redefining the fashion design culture and the fashion designer? Drawing from sociology of professions, this article proposes that digital fashion is an emerging subfield within the field of fashion design, differentiating itself from the professional conventions and building new strategies of jurisdiction and legitimation. Driven by sociotechnical affordances and elevation of professional pride through ethical, conceptual, artistic and skill differentiation, digital fashion designer becomes also a digital artisan. In the increasingly virtual, or “phygital” space and a networked synergetic community of digital fashion, the professional, authorial, bodily and material boundaries of designers become fluid, transforming the traditional figure of fashion designer.
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来源期刊
CiteScore
2.10
自引率
10.00%
发文量
41
期刊介绍: The importance of studying the body as a site for the deployment of discourses is well-established in a number of disciplines. By contrast, the study of fashion has, until recently, suffered from a lack of critical analysis. Increasingly, however, scholars have recognized the cultural significance of self-fashioning, including not only clothing but also such body alterations as tattooing and piercing. Fashion Theory takes as its starting point a definition of “fashion” as the cultural construction of the embodied identity. It provides an interdisciplinary forum for the rigorous analysis of cultural phenomena ranging from footbinding to fashion advertising.
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