得梅因男同性恋合唱团、酷儿空间、集体风格和活动家服装,1984年至今

IF 0.7 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2021-10-11 DOI:10.1080/1362704X.2021.1964269
Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Kyra G. Streck, Isaiah Sents, Destiny Williams
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引用次数: 0

摘要

摘要在20世纪70年代,美国人民成立了同性恋合唱团,用于政治激进主义、出柜和庆祝活动。我们研究了其中一个合唱团的历史,得梅因男同性恋合唱团(DMGMC)。我们问,他们的身体在运动和造型中是如何产生、分布和协商酷儿形象的?它们是如何跨越时空出现的?这些风格的时尚服饰行为如何开启多重解读和辩证微妙?为了回答这些问题,我们分析了最初的DMGMC口号T恤、历史LGBT T恤的数字档案、表演视频和图像、歌词、新闻文章和口述历史。合唱团成员通过他们的T恤衫和表演服装,以复杂的方式协商酷儿情感、合唱传统、激进主义和社区建设。他们通过在艾滋病危机期间创建临时酷儿空间,并强调社区和知名度在同性恋历史上的重要性,来协商酷儿的代表性。然而,合唱团经常通过着装来优先考虑合适的男同性恋,他们通过种族权力动态、与燕尾服相关的复杂性别联想,以及包括修女习惯在内的卡巴莱表演服装来强化这一点。合唱团的各种集体风格在美学上代表了男同性恋合唱团如何驾驭传统、同性恋和音乐的纠缠,同时重新获得压迫性的象征。
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Des Moines Gay Men’s Chorus, Queer Spaces, Collectives Styles, and Activist Dress, 1984 to the Present
Abstract During the 1970s, people in the United States founded gay and lesbian choruses for political activism, coming out, and celebration. We examined the history of one of these choruses, the Des Moines Gay Men’s Chorus (DMGMC). We asked, how do their bodies in motion and styling-fashioning-dressing produce, distribute, and negotiate queer representations? How do they appear across space and time? How can these style-fashion-dress acts open multiple interpretations and dialectical subtleties? To answer these questions, we analyzed the original DMGMC slogan T-shirt, the digital archive of historical LGBT T-shirts, performance videos and imagery, song lyrics, news articles, and oral histories. The chorus members negotiated queer sensibilities, choral traditions, activism, and community building through their T-shirts and performance costumes in complex ways. They negotiated queer representations by creating temporary queer spaces during the AIDS crisis and highlighting how community and visibility have been significant in gay history. However, the chorus often prioritized an appropriate kind of gay man via dress, which they reinforced through racial-power dynamics, complex-gender associations related to tuxedos, and cabaret performance outfits that included nun’s habits. The chorus’ various collective styles esthetically represent how gay men’s choruses navigate entanglements of tradition, gayness, and music while reclaiming oppressive symbology.
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来源期刊
CiteScore
2.10
自引率
10.00%
发文量
41
期刊介绍: The importance of studying the body as a site for the deployment of discourses is well-established in a number of disciplines. By contrast, the study of fashion has, until recently, suffered from a lack of critical analysis. Increasingly, however, scholars have recognized the cultural significance of self-fashioning, including not only clothing but also such body alterations as tattooing and piercing. Fashion Theory takes as its starting point a definition of “fashion” as the cultural construction of the embodied identity. It provides an interdisciplinary forum for the rigorous analysis of cultural phenomena ranging from footbinding to fashion advertising.
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