长时间穿着衣服的动机和障碍

IF 0.8 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2018-06-01 DOI:10.1386/CSFB.9.1.109_1
Jade Whitson-Smith
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引用次数: 4

摘要

随着人们对环境问题和道德消费意识的提高,时尚界一直在努力解决供应链和消费者行为中的道德问题。减少服装消费对环境影响的一个方法是改变消费者的行为方式。在可持续时尚中使用的行为改变的流行策略分为两类:提供信息,例如社交媒体活动,以及使用“设计耐用性”等设计策略创建新服装。然而,这些策略是基于假设,而不是基于对消费者服装使用动机或行为改变机制的经验理解。这篇文章关注的是一种特殊的环保行为:穿更长时间的衣服,以及影响这种行为的因素。这些发现为可以在哪些方面进行改进提供了见解。对英国女性消费者进行了一项定量衣橱研究。这项研究的目的是探索选择对环境有利的服装使用行为的动机和障碍,包括穿更长时间的衣服。从这项研究中,行为动机被编译。促使长时间穿着的主要因素是服装的舒适性和合身性。作为障碍的主要因素是环境的变化,这改变了消费者对服装是否适合他们的认知身份的看法。这些结果的含义是双重的。个人情况的变化对所有消费者来说都是不可避免的,这是设计师无法影响的。这表明,在促进长时间穿着的同时,引导消费者将未穿过的衣服的所有权转移给新用户是至关重要的。设计师和研究人员也有机会进一步探索服装的舒适性和合身性,但这些因素都是高度个性化的,这表明大规模生产可能不利于促进长时间的穿着。
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Motivations and barriers to the prolonged use of clothing
With increased awareness of environmental issues, and of ethical consumption, the fashion has been trying to address ethical issues in its supply chain, and on consumer behaviour. One approach to reducing the environmental impact of garment consumption is to change the way consumers behave. The prevailing strategies for behaviour change utilized within sustainable fashion have fallen into two categories: the provision of information, such as social media campaigns, and the creation of new garments using design strategies such as ‘design for durability’. However, these strategies are based on assumptions, rather than empirical understanding of what motivates consumer garment use, or the mechanics of behaviour change. This article focuses on one particular environmentally desirable behaviour: wearing garments for longer, and the factors influencing this behaviour. The findings provide insights into where improvements could be made. A quantitative wardrobe study was undertaken with female consumers in the United Kingdom. The purpose of the study was to explore the motivations and barriers to a selection of environmentally desirable garment-use behaviours, including wearing garments for longer. From this study, behavioural motivations were compiled. The predominant factors motivating prolonged wear were comfort and good fit of garments. The predominant factor acting as a barrier was change in circumstances, which changed consumer’s perceptions of how appropriate garments were for their perceived identity. The implications of these results are twofold. Changes in personal circumstances are inevitable for all consumers, and something that designers cannot influence. This suggests that alongside promoting prolonged wear, it is critical to guide consumers towards shifting ownership of unworn garments to new users. There is also an opportunity for designers and researchers to further explore comfort and fit of garments, but these factors are highly individualistic, which suggests that mass production may be detrimental to promoting prolonged wear.
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来源期刊
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-
CiteScore
0.70
自引率
75.00%
发文量
10
期刊最新文献
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