冲突场所的时尚宣言

IF 0.7 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-01-12 DOI:10.1080/1362704X.2021.2000811
Roberto Filippello
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引用次数: 1

摘要

本文通过对以巴品牌ADISH和巴勒斯坦品牌tRASHY两个设计团队的采访,分析了以色列/巴勒斯坦的关键时尚实践。这两个品牌都致力于将时尚设计和时尚形象塑造作为社区建设的工具:这是一个与重新思考生产和劳动体系齐头并进的项目。然而,他们实践的美学和政治维度不可避免地以各自创始人的不同经历和立场(作为以色列人或巴勒斯坦人)为特征。我将他们的创作实践置于后奥斯陆协议之后,并建议这些实践应该被理解为更广泛的创造性团结运动的一部分,该运动反对民族主义、压迫和分离。参与社区建设设计项目开发的情感劳动,合作创作过程,以及用于支持巴勒斯坦当地女工以及难民和/或LGBTQ人口的资本产生,是旨在促进变革的更大的基层动员的组成部分。这篇文章对正在进行的关于创造世界的艺术实践的学术工作有所贡献,并探讨了时尚如何在有争议的社会政治景观中提供一个重新思考美学和政治的舞台。
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Fashion Statements in a Site of Conflict
Abstract This article is an analysis of critical fashion practices in Israel/Palestine based on interviews conducted with two design teams: Israeli-Palestinian brand ADISH and Palestinian brand tRASHY. These two brands share a commitment to fashion design and fashion image-making as tools of community building: a project that goes hand in hand with a rethinking of systems of production and labor. The aesthetic and political dimension of their practices, however, are inevitably marked by the different experiences and positionalities (as Israelis or Palestinians) of their respective founders. I situate their creative practices in the wake of the post-Oslo Accords and suggest that such practices should be understood as part of a broader creative solidarity movement that contests nationalism, oppression, and separation. The affective labor involved in the development of community-building design projects, the cooperative creative process, and the generation of capital used to support local female workers as well as refugee and/or LGBTQ populations in Palestine are the constituents of a larger grassroots mobilization aimed at fostering change. This article contributes to ongoing scholarly work on art practices of world-making and explores how fashion could provide a stage for rethinking both the aesthetic and the political in a contested sociopolitical landscape.
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来源期刊
CiteScore
2.10
自引率
10.00%
发文量
41
期刊介绍: The importance of studying the body as a site for the deployment of discourses is well-established in a number of disciplines. By contrast, the study of fashion has, until recently, suffered from a lack of critical analysis. Increasingly, however, scholars have recognized the cultural significance of self-fashioning, including not only clothing but also such body alterations as tattooing and piercing. Fashion Theory takes as its starting point a definition of “fashion” as the cultural construction of the embodied identity. It provides an interdisciplinary forum for the rigorous analysis of cultural phenomena ranging from footbinding to fashion advertising.
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