巴格达制造?中世纪纺织品生产和早期兰帕斯梭织丝绸的图案符号系统

IF 0.7 2区 艺术学 0 ARCHITECTURE Muqarnas Pub Date : 2022-10-07 DOI:10.1163/22118993-00391p02
Corinne Mühlemann
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引用次数: 1

摘要

今天保存在波士顿美术博物馆的一块早期lampas编织丝绸碎片上的一个阿拉伯小铭文(编号33.371)表明,它是在巴格达市制造的。但阿拉伯铭文中的一个拼写错误揭示了实际的制造地:安达卢斯。我将这个片段与ḥal-Saqati的isba手册。Ḥisba手册包含由mu编写的规则ḥ市场检查员tasib。阿布·阿卜杜拉·穆罕默德·伊本·阿布·穆罕默德·萨卡提是西班牙马拉加的市场检查员,他的作品是Kitāb fīādāb al-ḥisba是在十一世纪末十二世纪初编纂的,与新的lampas编织技术传入安达卢斯的同时。通过对阿拉伯语术语rasm和bayt的讨论,以及对马拉加生产的假定标准尺寸丝绸的计算,我展示了ḥisba手册揭示了12世纪初安达卢斯的纺织制造、织机技术以及编织知识和图案的转移。此外,织机、诗歌和音乐之间的共同术语,如bayt一词所示,允许讨论lampas编织丝绸的制作节奏,并探索编织知识的根源。
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Made in the City of Baghdad? Medieval Textile Production and Pattern Notation Systems of Early Lampas Woven Silks
A small Arabic inscription on a fragment of an early lampas woven silk, today preserved in the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston (inv. no. 33.371), states that it was made in the city of Baghdad. But an orthographic error within the Arabic inscription reveals the actual place of manufacture: al-Andalus. I analyze this fragment together with a passage from the ḥisba manual of al-Saqati. Ḥisba manuals contain rules composed by the muḥtasib, the market inspector. Abu ʿAbdallah Muhammad Ibn Abu Muhammad al-Saqati was the market inspector of Málaga in Spain, and his work, the Kitāb fī ādāb al-ḥisba, was compiled at the close of the eleventh and opening of the twelfth centuries, at the same time that the new lampas weaving technology arrived in al-Andalus. Through a discussion of the Arabic terms rasm and bayt and a calculation of a hypothetical standard-sized silk produced in Málaga, I demonstrate the potential of ḥisba manuals to shed light on textile manufacture, loom technology, and the transfer of weaving knowledge and patterns in early twelfth-century al-Andalus. Further, shared terminology between looms, poetry, and music, evident in the term bayt, permits a discussion of rhythm in the making of lampas woven silks and an exploration of the traditions in which weaving knowledge is rooted.
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来源期刊
Muqarnas
Muqarnas Arts and Humanities-Visual Arts and Performing Arts
CiteScore
1.30
自引率
25.00%
发文量
13
期刊最新文献
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