闪闪发光的身体:欧亚游牧文化中的殡仪馆自我塑造政治(公元前700年至公元前200年)

IF 0.7 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2021-10-28 DOI:10.1080/1362704X.2021.1991133
Petya V. Andreeva
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引用次数: 1

摘要

摘要非定居文化一直存在于艺术历史经典的学术边缘和历史边缘:它们一直存在到今天,被埋葬在“东方”和“西方”、“高级”和“次要”艺术等过时的对立之间,被艺术史、考古学和民族志的跨学科紧张关系撕裂。在跨文化研究中,游牧社会通常只被认为是连接指定的“东方”和“西方”定居帝国的足够有利的中介,因此最近人们对与古希腊接壤、交易和战斗的庞蒂克斯基泰人产生了兴趣,或者匈奴,其游牧联盟成为早期帝国中国的地缘政治威胁。然而,与中国和希腊接壤的早期游牧民族留下了丰富的黄金装饰,这表明了一个精心设计的图像制作系统和植根于动物形态的高度概念化设计。以下文章重点介绍了欧亚大陆中部早期游牧社会精英埋葬时采用的自我造型和随葬装饰策略。金色套装由转喻传达的动物形象和异国情调组成,是贵族葬礼的规范元素。装饰必须展示精英们在地球上的生活,作为一个大胆的、全球公认的政治家和一个自豪的草原居民。
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Glittering Bodies: The Politics of Mortuary Self-Fashioning in Eurasian Nomadic Cultures (700 BCE-200 BCE)
Abstract Non-sedentary cultures have existed on the scholarly fringes and historiographical outskirts of the art-historical canon: there they remain to this day, buried between dated opposites like “east” and “west,” “high” and “minor” arts, torn by interdisciplinary tensions in art history, archaeology and ethnography. Nomadic societies are usually considered in cross-cultural studies only insofar as they can act as sufficiently expedient intermediaries linking settled empires in the designated “East” and “West,” hence the recent fascination with the Pontic Scythians who bordered, traded and fought with ancient Greece, or the Xiongnu whose nomadic confederation became a geopolitical threat to early imperial China. Yet, early pastoral nomads bordering China and Greece left behind a rich corpus of gold adornment which points to an elaborate system of image-making and highly conceptual designs rooted in zoomorphism. The following article focuses on the strategies of self-fashioning and funerary decor employed in the entombment of the elite in the early nomadic societies of Central Eurasia. Golden suits, composed of metonymically conveyed animal images, along with foreign exotica, were the normative elements of a noble’s funeral. Adornment had to showcase the elite’s life on earth as that of a daring, globally recognized politician and a proud steppe resident.
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来源期刊
CiteScore
2.10
自引率
10.00%
发文量
41
期刊介绍: The importance of studying the body as a site for the deployment of discourses is well-established in a number of disciplines. By contrast, the study of fashion has, until recently, suffered from a lack of critical analysis. Increasingly, however, scholars have recognized the cultural significance of self-fashioning, including not only clothing but also such body alterations as tattooing and piercing. Fashion Theory takes as its starting point a definition of “fashion” as the cultural construction of the embodied identity. It provides an interdisciplinary forum for the rigorous analysis of cultural phenomena ranging from footbinding to fashion advertising.
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