直面历史的缺失,创伤的存在和美在非洲博物馆,约翰内斯堡

IF 0.7 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-03-14 DOI:10.1080/1362704X.2022.2046867
A. Moloney, Wanda Lephoto, Erica de Greef
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引用次数: 0

摘要

非洲抽象博物馆是约翰内斯堡的社会和文化历史博物馆,收藏有伯尔尼伯格服装和纺织品收藏;以白人为主的欧洲时尚收藏品,约有16562件可追溯到1800年 20世纪末,进口到南非或在当地制造。本文记录了南非时装设计师兼艺术家Wanda Lephoto、伦敦时装策展人Alison Moloney和南非时装策展员兼学者Erica de Greef博士之间的持续询问,他们一直在努力应对博物馆商店中揭露的南非黑人时尚历史和叙事的缺失所带来的暴力。这一调查建立在服装策展的现象学方法之上,目的是通过对非殖民化策展方法的质疑来揭示藏品的认识论。艺术干预旨在破坏这些看似“无辜”但问题重重的物品所代表的以欧洲为中心、排斥性的获取实践和时尚话语。通过博物馆干预实验与这些时尚物品接触,能否使藏品中的复杂历史去殖民化和解开,并有助于愈合过程?
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Confronting the Absence of Histories, Presence of Traumas and Beauty in Museum Africa, Johannesburg
Abstract Museum Africa is Johannesburg’s social and cultural history museum and holds within its collection the Bernberg Costumes & Textiles Collection; an extensive collection of predominantly white-owned European fashion objects with some 16,562 items dating from the 1800 s to the late 1900s, imported into South Africa or made locally. This article documents the continued enquiry between South African fashion designer and artist Wanda Lephoto, London-based fashion curator Alison Moloney, and South African-based fashion curator and academic Dr Erica de Greef who together have been grappling with the violence of absence of black South African fashion histories and narratives that is revealed in the museum’s store. This enquiry is founded on a phenomenological approach to dress curatorship with the intention to unravel the collection’s epistemology through an interrogation of decolonial curatorial methodologies. The artistic interventions aim to disrupt the Eurocentric and exclusionary acquisition practices and fashion discourses that are represented by these seemingly “innocent” but deeply problematic objects. Can an engagement with these fashion objects through experiments with museological interventions decolonize and unpack the complex histories held within the collection and contribute to a process of healing?
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来源期刊
CiteScore
2.10
自引率
10.00%
发文量
41
期刊介绍: The importance of studying the body as a site for the deployment of discourses is well-established in a number of disciplines. By contrast, the study of fashion has, until recently, suffered from a lack of critical analysis. Increasingly, however, scholars have recognized the cultural significance of self-fashioning, including not only clothing but also such body alterations as tattooing and piercing. Fashion Theory takes as its starting point a definition of “fashion” as the cultural construction of the embodied identity. It provides an interdisciplinary forum for the rigorous analysis of cultural phenomena ranging from footbinding to fashion advertising.
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