反时尚品牌:优衣库和Allbirds的框架技术

IF 0.7 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2022-08-02 DOI:10.1080/1362704X.2022.2101587
M. Lascity
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引用次数: 0

摘要

摘要尽管技术长期以来一直是时尚体系不可或缺的一部分,但优衣库和Allbirds的高管们都重新强调了这一点。在新闻采访中,公司领导辩称,服装和鞋匠分别不是时尚品牌,但“技术”公司及其真正的竞争对手是像苹果这样的公司。由于了解到时尚和品牌都是从公共话语中产生的,本文对高管的声明、相关新闻报道和品牌信息采取了批判性话语的方法。本文认为,这种话语将品牌的产品置于时尚体系之外,并创造了他们自己的时间感。然而,这些言论进入了当代话语结构,这些话语结构将技术视为一种“严肃”的努力,同时贬低了与时尚和个人外表的联系。此外,本文认为,在时尚话语中使用框架可能是一项富有成效的未来研究工作。
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Anti-Fashion Branding: Framing Technology in Uniqlo and Allbirds
Abstract Although technology has long been integral to the fashion system, executives from both Uniqlo and Allbirds are placing a renewed emphasis on it. In press interviews, company leaders argued that the clothing and shoemaker, respectively, are not fashion brands, but “technology” firms and their true competitors are the likes of Apple. Understanding that both fashion and branding are created from public discourse, this paper takes a critical discourse approach to the statements by executives, their related press coverage and their brand messaging. The paper argues that such statements discursively set the brands’ products outside of the fashion system and create their own sense of temporality. However, such statements play into contemporary discourse structures that prioritize technology as a “serious” endeavor, while concurrently degrading the associations with fashion and personal appearance. Moreover, this paper suggests that the use of framing within fashion discourses might be a productive future research endeavor.
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来源期刊
CiteScore
2.10
自引率
10.00%
发文量
41
期刊介绍: The importance of studying the body as a site for the deployment of discourses is well-established in a number of disciplines. By contrast, the study of fashion has, until recently, suffered from a lack of critical analysis. Increasingly, however, scholars have recognized the cultural significance of self-fashioning, including not only clothing but also such body alterations as tattooing and piercing. Fashion Theory takes as its starting point a definition of “fashion” as the cultural construction of the embodied identity. It provides an interdisciplinary forum for the rigorous analysis of cultural phenomena ranging from footbinding to fashion advertising.
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