Salivary Dangers and their Resolution

In China, when people have a meal together, it is certainly possible for individuals to order a personal dish that is not for sharing with others. But it is far more common for food to be exchanged directly between hands, between hands-and-mouths and, as I will describe shortly, effectively between mouths. This describes the circumstance when consumers directly eat food from a shared dish, with the effect that they encounter each other's saliva. This mode of consumption is called gong can. On the face of it, it seems foolhardy to continue to eat together in such a way during a pandemic that travels between bodies through connecting droplets, like saliva, especially when other forms of eating together are available. Why is such a mode preferred during the COVID-19 pandemic? What makes it safe?