文化集体的实践:风格激进主义、Miromoda和新西兰奥特亚的毛利时尚

IF 0.8 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty Pub Date : 2021-06-01 DOI:10.1386/csfb_00024_1
Harriette Richards
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引用次数: 1

摘要

在新西兰奥特罗阿,熟悉的时尚历史叙述讲述了Pākehā(新西兰欧洲)设计师的成功,他们在世界的边缘打造了一个独特的时尚产业。这种叙述忽视了Māori时尚文化的历史,包括政治人物(如Whetu Tirikatene-Sullivan)和诸如太平洋姐妹(Pacific Sisters)等团体(他们在20世纪提高了Māori和Pasifika设计的地位)所扮演的“风格激进主义”的角色。它也忽视了新西兰时尚产业今天不断变化的本质。2008年成立的土著时尚服装委员会(IMFAB) Miromoda是最近改变新西兰奥特罗阿人对时尚看法的最重要举措之一。通过支持Māori时装设计师的工作和优先考虑ao Māori (Māori世界观)的价值观,Miromoda成功地为新西兰时尚产业的“非殖民化”做出了贡献。本文着重介绍了文化集体的实践,包括Tirikatene-Sullivan和Pacific Sisters等时尚活动家的实践,以及Kiri Nathan、Tessa lonessa和Bobby Campbell Luke等Māori时装设计师的实践,以探索在新西兰奥特亚罗(Aotearoa)扩大更积极的时尚未来。
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Practices of cultural collectivity: Style activism, Miromoda and Māori fashion in Aotearoa New Zealand
Familiar narratives of fashion history in Aotearoa New Zealand recount the successes of Pākehā (New Zealand European) designers who have forged a distinctive fashion industry at the edge of the world. This narrative overlooks the history of Māori fashion cultures, including the role of ‘style activism’ enacted by political figures such as Whetu Tirikatene-Sullivan and collectives such as the Pacific Sisters who advanced the status of Māori and Pasifika design in the twentieth century. It also ignores the changing nature of the New Zealand fashion industry today. One of the most significant recent initiatives to alter perceptions of fashion in Aotearoa New Zealand has been Miromoda, the Indigenous Māori Fashion Apparel Board (IMFAB), established in 2008. By championing the work of Māori fashion designers and prioritizing the values of te ao Māori (the Māori world-view), Miromoda is successfully contributing to the ‘decolonization’ of the New Zealand fashion industry. This article foregrounds practices of cultural collectivity, including that of style activists such as Tirikatene-Sullivan and the Pacific Sisters, and Māori fashion designers such as Kiri Nathan, Tessa Lont (Lontessa) and Bobby Campbell Luke (Campbell Luke), to explore the expansion of a more affirmative fashion future in Aotearoa New Zealand.
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来源期刊
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty
Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-
CiteScore
0.70
自引率
75.00%
发文量
10
期刊最新文献
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