{"title":"男性气质、身份认同和跨区域的身体政治:拉夫·西蒙斯批判性时尚实践的酷儿视角(1995-2005)","authors":"Nicola Brajato","doi":"10.1080/1362704X.2021.1982191","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"Abstract Belgian designer Raf Simons is internationally known for his leadership in avant-garde menswear and his willingness to break with conventional perceptions of masculinity. Nevertheless, his intervention in this field has not been the subject of a thorough academic investigation to date. Focusing specifically on the revisioning of the male body and men’s fashion in Simons’s critical fashion practices, this article aims to offer an original reading of the designer’s work. Drawing on queer theory, I will theorize the image of the interzone, which has been dear to the designer’s modus operandi, as a queer trope that allows Simons to critically engage with masculinity, identity and body politics. By building a theoretical bridge between the fields of fashion studies and queer theory, the article seeks to expand the literature on Belgian fashion and the Antwerp fashion scene, providing a perspective on its relationship with masculinities, the body and queerness.","PeriodicalId":51687,"journal":{"name":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","volume":"27 1","pages":"115 - 147"},"PeriodicalIF":0.7000,"publicationDate":"2021-10-18","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"Masculinity, Identity and Body Politics in the Interzone: A Queer Perspective on Raf Simons’s Critical Fashion Practices (1995–2005)\",\"authors\":\"Nicola Brajato\",\"doi\":\"10.1080/1362704X.2021.1982191\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"Abstract Belgian designer Raf Simons is internationally known for his leadership in avant-garde menswear and his willingness to break with conventional perceptions of masculinity. Nevertheless, his intervention in this field has not been the subject of a thorough academic investigation to date. Focusing specifically on the revisioning of the male body and men’s fashion in Simons’s critical fashion practices, this article aims to offer an original reading of the designer’s work. Drawing on queer theory, I will theorize the image of the interzone, which has been dear to the designer’s modus operandi, as a queer trope that allows Simons to critically engage with masculinity, identity and body politics. By building a theoretical bridge between the fields of fashion studies and queer theory, the article seeks to expand the literature on Belgian fashion and the Antwerp fashion scene, providing a perspective on its relationship with masculinities, the body and queerness.\",\"PeriodicalId\":51687,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture\",\"volume\":\"27 1\",\"pages\":\"115 - 147\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":0.7000,\"publicationDate\":\"2021-10-18\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"1085\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2021.1982191\",\"RegionNum\":4,\"RegionCategory\":\"社会学\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"0\",\"JCRName\":\"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2021.1982191","RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"0","JCRName":"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY","Score":null,"Total":0}
Masculinity, Identity and Body Politics in the Interzone: A Queer Perspective on Raf Simons’s Critical Fashion Practices (1995–2005)
Abstract Belgian designer Raf Simons is internationally known for his leadership in avant-garde menswear and his willingness to break with conventional perceptions of masculinity. Nevertheless, his intervention in this field has not been the subject of a thorough academic investigation to date. Focusing specifically on the revisioning of the male body and men’s fashion in Simons’s critical fashion practices, this article aims to offer an original reading of the designer’s work. Drawing on queer theory, I will theorize the image of the interzone, which has been dear to the designer’s modus operandi, as a queer trope that allows Simons to critically engage with masculinity, identity and body politics. By building a theoretical bridge between the fields of fashion studies and queer theory, the article seeks to expand the literature on Belgian fashion and the Antwerp fashion scene, providing a perspective on its relationship with masculinities, the body and queerness.
期刊介绍:
The importance of studying the body as a site for the deployment of discourses is well-established in a number of disciplines. By contrast, the study of fashion has, until recently, suffered from a lack of critical analysis. Increasingly, however, scholars have recognized the cultural significance of self-fashioning, including not only clothing but also such body alterations as tattooing and piercing. Fashion Theory takes as its starting point a definition of “fashion” as the cultural construction of the embodied identity. It provides an interdisciplinary forum for the rigorous analysis of cultural phenomena ranging from footbinding to fashion advertising.