男性气质、身份认同和跨区域的身体政治:拉夫·西蒙斯批判性时尚实践的酷儿视角(1995-2005)

IF 0.7 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress Body & Culture Pub Date : 2021-10-18 DOI:10.1080/1362704X.2021.1982191
Nicola Brajato
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引用次数: 0

摘要

比利时设计师Raf Simons以其在前卫男装领域的领导地位和打破传统男性气质的意愿而闻名于世。然而,迄今为止,他在这一领域的介入还没有得到彻底的学术调查。这篇文章的目的是对这位设计师的作品提供一种原创的解读,特别关注在西蒙斯的批判性时尚实践中对男性身体和男性时尚的修正。根据酷儿理论,我将把“间区”的形象理论化,这是设计师一贯的做法,作为一个酷儿的比喻,让西蒙斯批判性地参与到男性气质、身份和身体政治中来。通过在时尚研究领域和酷儿理论之间建立理论桥梁,本文试图扩展比利时时尚和安特卫普时尚场景的文献,提供其与男性气质,身体和酷儿的关系的视角。
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Masculinity, Identity and Body Politics in the Interzone: A Queer Perspective on Raf Simons’s Critical Fashion Practices (1995–2005)
Abstract Belgian designer Raf Simons is internationally known for his leadership in avant-garde menswear and his willingness to break with conventional perceptions of masculinity. Nevertheless, his intervention in this field has not been the subject of a thorough academic investigation to date. Focusing specifically on the revisioning of the male body and men’s fashion in Simons’s critical fashion practices, this article aims to offer an original reading of the designer’s work. Drawing on queer theory, I will theorize the image of the interzone, which has been dear to the designer’s modus operandi, as a queer trope that allows Simons to critically engage with masculinity, identity and body politics. By building a theoretical bridge between the fields of fashion studies and queer theory, the article seeks to expand the literature on Belgian fashion and the Antwerp fashion scene, providing a perspective on its relationship with masculinities, the body and queerness.
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来源期刊
CiteScore
2.10
自引率
10.00%
发文量
41
期刊介绍: The importance of studying the body as a site for the deployment of discourses is well-established in a number of disciplines. By contrast, the study of fashion has, until recently, suffered from a lack of critical analysis. Increasingly, however, scholars have recognized the cultural significance of self-fashioning, including not only clothing but also such body alterations as tattooing and piercing. Fashion Theory takes as its starting point a definition of “fashion” as the cultural construction of the embodied identity. It provides an interdisciplinary forum for the rigorous analysis of cultural phenomena ranging from footbinding to fashion advertising.
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