Legitimating taste in cultural fields: Generational classifications and symbolic struggles in representations of ‘natural’ wine

This article addresses the legitimation of taste in cultural fields by examining the role of generational dynamics in the field of fine wine. In the last decade, ‘natural’ wine has become an increasingly influential category in the fine wine field. The article explores how legitimating media institutions in this field represent natural wine, particularly as regards to the symbolic properties of cultural taste. The empirical material consists of articles published in two leading US wine magazines, VinePair and Wine Spectator. The analysis shows that natural wine was represented as a contested category whose aesthetic qualities were only partially legitimated. Moreover, generational and age-coded categories were deployed to construct oppositions between natural wines and other fine wines, as well as between their respective proponents. The aesthetic characteristics of natural wine were associated with emerging forms of cultural capital that partly challenged established aesthetic standards in the fine wine field connected to traditional highbrow cultural capital. Contestations over natural wine are therefore indicative of symbolic struggles over cultural taste in the fine wine field. In conclusion, the article contributes to research in cultural fields by analysing the relationship between generational classifications and contestations over aesthetic standards in the legitimation of taste.