机织挂毯:保护指南

IF 0.5 2区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY TEXTILE HISTORY Pub Date : 2022-01-02 DOI:10.1080/00404969.2022.2193080
Kathrin Colburn
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引用次数: 0

摘要

图像是作为装饰而非证据提供的,与书中讨论的人物和事件几乎没有关系。同时,文本中引用的其他图像根本不包括在内。然而,布洛克出版了一本可读性强、学术性强的大部头著作,值得称赞。她避免了过多的行话,并设法使关税和破产的详细讨论变得有趣,如果不是令人兴奋的话。尽管这本书经过了深入的研究——将从广告、目录、时尚版、发票和日记中收集到的线索拼凑在一起——但由于其紧凑的结构和清晰的论证,它是可以访问的,只是偶尔会陷入迂腐的姓名和地址清单中。最重要的是,《盛装打扮》让镀金时代这个遥远而稀薄的世界立即变得相关起来,这是HBO的同名声望时期电视剧从未做到的。阿尔瓦·范德比尔特对法国服装每两次到货的兴奋,在YouTube“开箱”视频的时代将如出一辙。移动工作室的社会摄影师们为拍摄蒙面舞会上精心制作的服装而设立,这是Instagram的早期迭代。著名理发师Lenth eric在Aix les Bains和蒙特卡洛的夏季临时分店基本上都是快闪店。在资本主义和时尚中,一切旧的东西都是新的。
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Woven Tapestry: Guidelines for Conservation
images are offered as decoration rather than evidence, having little to do with the people and events discussed in the book. Meanwhile, other images referenced in the text are not included at all. Yet Block should be commended for producing a tome that is as readable as it is scholarly. She avoids excessive jargon and manages to make detailed discussions of tariffs and bankruptcies interesting, if not exciting. Though the book is densely researched—piecing together clues gleaned from advertisements, directories, fashion plates, invoices and diaries—it is accessible due to its tight structure and clear argumentation, only occasionally lapsing into pedantic laundry lists of names and addresses. Above all, Dressing Up makes the remote, rarefied world of the Gilded Age immediately relevant and relatable in a way that HBO’s prestige period drama of the same name never managed to do. Alva Vanderbilt’s excitement over the twiceyearly arrival of shipments of French clothing would be right at home in the age of YouTube ‘unboxing’ videos. The mobile studios’ society photographers set up to capture the elaborate costumes worn at masked balls were an early iteration of Instagram. And leading hairdresser Lenth eric’s temporary summer outposts in Aix-les-Bains and Monte Carlo were, essentially, pop-up shops. In capitalism as in fashion, everything old is new again.
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来源期刊
TEXTILE HISTORY
TEXTILE HISTORY HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-
CiteScore
1.00
自引率
0.00%
发文量
0
期刊介绍: Textile History is an internationally recognised, peer reviewed journal and one of the leading publications in its field. It is viewed as an important outlet for current research. Published in the spring and autumn of each year, its remit has always been to facilitate the publication of high-quality research and discussion in all aspects of scholarship arising from the history of textiles and dress. Since its foundation the scope of the journal has been substantially expanded to include articles dealing with aspects of the cultural and social history of apparel and textiles, as well as issues arising from the exhibition, preservation and interpretation of historic textiles or clothing.
期刊最新文献
The Production and Trade of Hand-Knitted Wool Stockings in Elizabethan and Early Jacobean England (c. 1580–c. 1617) A Set of Liturgical Vestments and Textiles Made for the Requiem Mass in the Early Eighteenth Century Redrafting Domestic Life: Women Textile Designers and New Professional Enterprises in Early 1970s Britain Early Twentieth-Century Nottingham Lace Curtains: An Ideal Window Furnishing ‘Zoom Into This Embroidered Panel for a Cabinet Door’
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