时尚史上第一次本土亚文化分析:“不可思议”和“奇迹”的反时尚风格

Marija Kertakova, Sonja Jordeva, J. Efremov
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引用次数: 0

摘要

这篇科学文章致力于一个非常有趣的话题,与时尚历史和时尚服装鉴赏家相关(但对普通时尚爱好者来说还不够),对今天的科学、时尚和时尚产业有很大的好处,因为它涉及到社会政治事件如何极大地影响一种全新的服装的构建,从根本上不同于传统的。这项科学工作的主要目标之一是重新考虑和批判性地分析生活在十八世纪晚期最叛逆的年轻人的服装。所谓的“Incroyables”和“Merveilleuses”是时尚史上第一个本土亚文化,通过男女服装的特色元素和变化为时尚做出贡献,从而定义了一种全新的社会审美理想,并借助这一时期的时尚男女西装来体现和表达。另一方面,由于对这种新的服装结构方式和方法的认识和研究,20世纪下半叶之后的新年轻人是如何出现的,新时代的设计师们在创作实践中巧妙地运用了积累的历史材料,并以一种具有时代精神特征的方式体现出来。由于时尚具有多种表现形式,我也使用了跨文化的研究方法——吸引了社会学的某些部分以及结构和系统的分析。
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Analysis of the first autochthonous subculture in fashion history: Antimode style of "Incroyables" and "Marveilleuses"
This scientific article is devoted to an extremely intriguing topic, so relevant among connoisseurs of fashion history and fashion costume (but not enough among ordinary fashion lovers) and is of great benefit to today's science, fashion and fashion industry, as it relates to the question of how socio-political events can greatly influence the construction of a completely new costume, radically different from the conventional one. One of the main goals of this scientific work is to reconsider and critically analyze the costumes of the most rebellious young people who lived in the late XVIII century. The so-called "Incroyables" and "Merveilleuses" emerged as the first autochthonous subculture in the history of fashion, contributing to fashion through the characteristic elements and variations of men's and women's costumes, thus defining a completely new social ideal of beauty, embodied and expressed with the help of fashionable women's and men's suits from this period. On the other hand, thanks to the knowledge and study of this new way and method of structuring the costume, the horizon is born in which it becomes clear how the new young people appeared after the second half of the 20th century, and the designers of the new age cleverly use accumulated historical material in their creative practice and embody the same in a way so characteristic of the spirit of the time. Due to the fact that fashion has various manifestations, I have also used cross-cultural research methods -attracting certain parts of sociology and structural and systematic analysis..
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审稿时长
12 weeks
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