与人类世一起实践时尚

Q1 Arts and Humanities Temes de Disseny Pub Date : 2019-07-25 DOI:10.46467/tdd35.2019.90-115
Patricia Wu Wu
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引用次数: 0

摘要

弗朗茨·卡夫卡(Franz Kafka)的故事《一个顾家男人的烦恼》(The Cares of a Family Man)中,奥德拉戴克是一个奇怪的生物,它比叙述者活得更久,因此成为了思考一个没有任何叙事必要性的世界的工具。在故事中,Odradek将符号学的涟漪传播到未来的载体中,在那里它的回响传播到一个本体论上退缩的世界,人类思想无法进入。Odradek是一个象征,一个奇怪的图腾,象征着人类灭绝的思想引起的骚动,因为它体现了对被非人类实体超越的恐惧。Odradek与叙述者的符号学关系与我们与人类世(Anthropocene)的关系是同义词——人类活动极大地改变了地球的地质时代(Crutzen et al. 2011)。人类世的核心是对未来的一瞥,在未来,人类主体,就像叙述者一样,面对抽象的现实,放弃了至高无上的执行功能。本文概述了我以实践为基础的旅程,寻求将Odradek不可思议的宇宙物化为投机的设计对象。它展示了一种时尚的可穿戴设备,一种通过计算设计捕获并通过数字制造实现的面罩。通过这一探究过程,本文提出了一个问题:我们如何思考和叙述一种非人类中心主义的叙事或虚构的思想?我们如何通过人类世的偶然性来塑造、计算和设计时尚?呈现的作品探讨了Odradek的生成能力,作为一种寻找和计算美学的手段,以非人类中心主义的视角来看待人体。我使用面向对象的本体作为访问Odradek的一种手段,特别是超对象的概念——正如Timothy Morton(2013)所假定的那样,超对象是一种超越人类理解的规模和时间性的东西。实践通过在物质和非物质、外在和内在、有机和无机的二元之间振荡,将创造性的研究方法开辟为一种破坏性的命名法。在这个过程中,发现了一种实践,它与人类世的麻烦海岸形成了渐近线——在人类世中,现实的偶然方面重新获得并从根本上动摇了人类与非人类之间关系的进程和等级。在这方面,它以一种叙事能力扭曲了服装设计实践,为一种生态的思维模式提供了条件。
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Practicing Fashion with the Anthropocene
Odradek, a strange creature in Franz Kafka’s tale “The Cares of a Family Man,” outlives the narrator, thus becoming a device to think about a world devoid of any narrative necessity. In the story, Odradek sends semiotic ripples into the vectors of a future, where its reverberations spread into an ontologically withdrawn world, inaccessible to human thought. Odradek is a symbol, a strange totem of the agitation caused by the thought of human extinction as it embodies the fear of being outlived by a non-human entity. The semiotic relationship of Odradek with the narrator is synonymous to our relationship with the Anthropocene — the geological epoch in which human-induced activities have drastically altered the Earth (Crutzen et al. 2011). At the very core of the Anthropocene is a glimpse of a future in which the human subject, similar to the narrator, cedes its sovereign executive functions in the face of an abstract reality. This paper outlines my practice-based journey, seeking the materialization of an incalculably weird universe of Odradek into a speculative design object. It presents a fashion wearable, a face mask, captured through computational design and materialized through digital fabrication. Through this process of inquiry, the paper asks: how can we think and narrate a non-anthropocentric narrative or fictive thought? How can we mold, compute, and design fashion through the contingencies of the Anthropocene? The presented work explores the generative capacity of Odradek as a means of searching and computing an aesthetic proper to a non-anthropocentric perspective on the human body. I have used Object-Oriented Ontology as a means to access Odradek, especially the notion of a hyperobject - a thing of scale and temporality beyond human comprehension, as posited by Timothy Morton (2013a). The practice opens up creative research methodologies into a disruptive nomenclature by oscillating between the binaries of material and immaterial, exteriority and interiority, organic and inorganic. In the process finding, a practice is found that forms an asymptote with the troubled shores of the Anthropocene — in which contingent aspects of the real reclaim and fundamentally shake the course and hierarchy of relationships between human and non-human. In this regard, it twists fashion design practice with a narrative capacity that provides conditions for an ecological model of thinking.
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来源期刊
CiteScore
1.00
自引率
0.00%
发文量
8
审稿时长
30 weeks
期刊最新文献
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