裙摆:作为奇怪物体的裙摆

IF 0.4 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Fashion Style & Popular Culture Pub Date : 2022-07-20 DOI:10.1386/fspc_00141_1
Rachel Getz-Salomon
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引用次数: 0

摘要

酷儿思想支持的身份模糊了社会类别之间的界限,通过不同的混合体将它们混合在一起。在这篇文章中,酷儿对主体世界的参与被投射到客体世界,重点是服装客体。与以直立逻辑组织起来的紧身衣不同,裙子是一种具有多元、自由和混合可能性的文化定义对象,需要对身份方面进行讨论。这些体现在身份表现的可能性中,同时表现为保护和隐藏,或者表现为自我表达和暴露。在这篇文章中,对裙子的看法暂停了,在这方面造成了非自动化;本文使用“对象人类学”来考察裙子的材料质量,在考虑其历史、理解其社会学和文化作用的同时,对材料方面进行了考察。文章称,这条裙子的变化、矛盾和流动特征标志着它在现代衣橱中是一种不同寻常的服装。因此,这是一个自由和“其他”的因素,衣橱的酷儿。文章指出,它是一个包含文化定义,性别流动性和破坏可穿戴物品二元划分能力的多种,自由和混合可能性的对象。
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Outskirt: The skirt as a queer object
The queer thought supports identities that blur the boundaries between social categories, blending them through different hybrids. In this article, the queer involvement with the subject world is projected on the world of objects, focusing on clothing objects. Unlike the tight, western wardrobe organized in an upright logic, the skirt is an object with diverse, free and hybrid possibilities for cultural definition, calling upon a discussion for identity aspects. These are embodied in the possibilities for identity performance while presenting protection and concealment or as self-expression and exposure. In this article, the view on the skirt is paused, creating de-automatization in its regard; the article examines the skirt’s material qualities using ‘anthropology of the object’, in which the material aspects are examined while considering its history understanding its sociological and cultural role. The article claims that the skirt’s changing, contradictory and fluid characterizations mark it as a different, unusual dress in the modern wardrobe array. Therefore, it is a free and ‘other’ factor, the wardrobe’s queer. The article states that it is an object containing diverse, free and hybrid possibilities for cultural definition, gender fluidity and the ability to undermine the binary division of wearable objects.
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来源期刊
Fashion Style & Popular Culture
Fashion Style & Popular Culture HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-
CiteScore
0.60
自引率
0.00%
发文量
53
期刊最新文献
A New History of ‘Made in Italy’: Fashion and Textiles in Post-War Italy, Lucia Savi (2023) Fear and Clothing: Dress in English Detective Fiction between the First and Second World Wars, Jane Custance Baker (2023) Fashion Brand Stories, 3rd ed., Joseph H. Hancock II (2022) Political and Sartorial Styles: Britain and Its Colonies in the Long Nineteenth Century, Kevin A. Morrison (ed.) (2023) Dressed for Freedom: The Fashionable Politics of American Feminism, Einav Rabinovitch-Fox (2021)
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