服装用非织造布的发展与特性

Cheema Sm, Shah Th, Anand Sc, N. Soin
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引用次数: 5

摘要

由于传统的制造工艺,制造服装面料的成本非常高,而采用非常规方法制造面料的新方法/工艺正在不断开发。随着技术的进步和创新纤维的可用性,利用水缠结工艺的耐用非织造布在美学和拉伸性能方面可以与机织物竞争。在这里报道的工作中,通过混合无纺布制造工艺,使用纤化天丝®和双组分(护套/芯)聚乙烯/聚酯(PE/PET)纤维,开发了水缠结非织造布,其中最初的非织造布是通过针刺方法制备的,然后在50至250巴的最佳压力下进行水缠结过程。根据英国标准(BS 3356:1990, BS 9237:1995, BS 13934-1:1999)对所制备的织物进行了特性测定,并将所得结果与标准的平纹棉、聚酯机织织物和市售无纺布(Evolon®)进行了比较。所研制的水缠织物抗弯刚度为252mg,具有较好的悬垂性能。而相应的商业水缠织物显示的值为1340 mg。开发的水缠织物的抗拉强度比商用水缠织物提高了约200%。同样,开发的水缠织物在透气性方面表现出更高的性能,如开发的水缠织物在100 Pa压力下的透气性为448 mm/秒,Evolon织物的透气性为69 mm/秒。因此,对于服装面料,结合现有的非织造布生产方法,在成本、时间方面提供了额外的好处,也有助于减少服装面料制造的碳足迹。
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Development and Characterisation of Nonwoven Fabrics for Apparel Applications
The cost of making apparel fabrics for garment manufacturing is very high because of their conventional manufacturing processes and new methods/processes are being constantly developed for making fabrics by unconventional methods. With the advancements in technology and the availability of the innovative fibre, durable nonwoven fabrics by using the hydroentanglement process that can compete with the woven fabrics in terms of their aesthetic and tensile properties are being developed. In the work reported here, the hydroentangled nonwoven fabrics were developed through a hybrid nonwoven manufacturing processes by using fibrillated Tencel® and bi-component (sheath/core) polyethylene/polyester (PE/PET) fibres, in which the initial nonwoven fabrics were prepared by the needle-punching method followed by hydroentanglement process carried out at optimal pressures of 50 to 250 bars. The prepared fabrics were characterised according to the British Standards (BS 3356:1990, BS 9237:1995, BS 13934-1:1999) and the attained results were compared with those for a standard plain-weave cotton, polyester woven fabric and commercially available nonwoven fabric (Evolon®). The developed hydroentangled fabrics showed better drape properties owing to their flexural rigidity of 252 mg.cm in the MD, while the corresponding commercial hydroentangled fabric displayed a value of 1340 mg.cm in the MD. Tensile strength of the developed hydroentangled fabrics showed an approximately 200% increase than the commercial hydroentangled fabrics. Similarly, the developed hydroentangled fabrics showed higher properties in term of air permeability, such as the developed hydroentangled fabric exhibited 448 mm/sec and Evolon fabric exhibited 69 mm/sec at 100 Pa pressure. Thus for apparel fabrics, the work combining the existing methods of nonwoven production, provides additional benefits in terms of cost, time and also helps in reducing the carbon footprint for the apparel fabric manufacture.
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