数字时尚达人:喀麦隆雅温达尔的年轻女性、富有的追随者和女管家

Ewa Majczak
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摘要

在冷战后贸易和媒体自由化的背景下,本文研究了生活在喀麦隆雅温得的年轻女性如何通过WhatsApp分享她们精心制作的风格的数字图像。这种分享是一种影响力行为,通常旨在树立女性在数字世界的“时尚达人”形象,因为它构成了一种虚拟的潜力,可以说服别人模仿自己的风格。当这种潜力在有地位和等级的女性中得到实现时,年轻女性可以塑造女性关系,开辟向上社会流动的途径。为了吸引有地位和地位的女性,年轻女性传播她们的风格照片,以调动同龄人、亲属和陌生人的数字追随者网络,利用她们的技能、地位和知识。这种动员反过来又依赖于分享时尚达人形象能给追随者带来的实际和潜在的好处。因此,我认为,时尚领袖和他们的追随者之间的相互依赖是打造和保持数字时尚达人名声的关键。本文通过展示数字图像在社交媒体网络上的传播如何为生活在雅温达的年轻女性创造时尚婚姻关系和社会流动性的潜力,为西非时尚和社会流动性的文献做出了贡献。更广泛地说,将追随者视为一种财富的形式,提供了对社交媒体影响者的新自由主义市场估值的批评,阐明了为数字影响者经济提供信息的其他估值制度。
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Digital fashionistas: young women, wealth-in-followers and matronage in Yaoundé, Cameroon
Abstract Against the background of post-Cold War trade and media liberalization, this article examines how young women living in Yaoundé, Cameroon, share digital images of their crafted styles via WhatsApp. Such sharing is an act of influence usually aimed at building the woman’s name as a digital ‘fashionista’, in that it constitutes a virtual potential for persuading others to copy one’s style. When this potential is actualized among women of status and rank, young women can fashion relations of matronage, opening up avenues of upward social mobility. To reach out to women of status and rank, young women circulate images of their styles to mobilize digital follower networks of peers, kin and strangers, drawing on their skills, status and knowledge. This mobilization in turn relies on the actual and potential benefits that sharing a fashionista image can bring to the follower. Thus, I argue, interdependencies between stylish leaders and their followers are key to making and maintaining a name as a digital fashionista. This article contributes to the literature on fashion and social mobility in West Africa by showing how the circulation of digital images over social media networks generates potentialities for young women living in Yaoundé to fashion matronage relations and social mobility. More broadly, the framing of followers as a form of wealth-in-people provides a critique of the neoliberal market valuation of social media influencers, illuminating alternative regimes of valuation that inform digital influencer economies.
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