于连和塞尔维亚葡萄酒的第一个世界分类(1816年、1822年和1832年)

Aleksandar Fotić
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引用次数: 0

摘要

本文以Andr?于连?著名的维格诺斯地形图?最早出版于1816年(18222年,18323年)。它指出了于连的深远重要性。S的工作,澄清了其创作的情况,它的方法,数据的意义和类型,而且,这是特别重要的,确定了作者使用的大部分来源。于连?《地形图》不是一本没有地理和历史错误的完美的书,它也没有涵盖世界上所有的葡萄酒产区。然而,它是所有葡萄酒的第一个一般分类,无论是法国的还是外国的?,根据相当明确的标准,由一位经验丰富、似乎没有偏见的鉴赏家撰写。其重要性在出版后立即得到承认,其分类的全球性使其成为所有类似工作的基础。这篇文章的分析重点仅限于今天塞尔维亚的领土。在奥斯曼帝国的省?在塞尔维亚,他挑出贝尔格莱德周边地区作为最重要的葡萄酒产区,并在第三版中加上普里什蒂纳周边地区。产自东部斯雷姆(Karlovci)的葡萄酒在质量方面脱颖而出。这篇综述还包括巴纳特与弗萨克和贝拉Crkva (Weisskirchen)的葡萄酒产区。在当时的葡萄酒世界里,来自斯雷姆和巴纳特的葡萄酒被归类为奥地利帝国的葡萄酒,或者更狭隘地说,被归类为匈牙利葡萄酒。Andr吗?于连显然没有亲自品尝上述提到的任何一种塞尔维亚葡萄酒。他主要依靠百科全书、统计记录、地理和旅行记录中提供的信息。对资料来源的搜寻和确认表明,他在使用这些数据时是多么彻底、一致和诚实。毫无疑问,最好的塞尔维亚葡萄酒是在卡尔洛夫奇及其周边地区酿造的。一种甜红酒,奥斯布鲁赫,在18世纪中期获得了很高的声誉,一直保持到20世纪。首先,于连将其归类为第三类,然后又归类为世界上最高的第二类。甜红酒。例如,在所有匈牙利葡萄酒中,只有Tokay的评级高于它。Karlovci吗?美国的半甜葡萄酒和干葡萄酒也获得了同样高的二级评级。于连?从罗马时代到19世纪初,世界葡萄酒协会对塞尔维亚葡萄酒的分类证实了高品质葡萄酒产区在现在的塞尔维亚的持续存在。
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André Jullien and the first world classifications of Serbian wines(1816, 1822, and 1832)
This paper analyses the first world classifications of Serbian wines based on Andr? Jullien?s famous Topographie de tous les Vignobles connus? published as early as 1816 (18222, 18323). It points to the far-reaching importance of Jullien?s work, clarifies the circumstances of its creation, its methodology, the significance and types of data presented, and, which is particularly important, identifies most of the sources used by the author. Jullien?s Topographie is not a perfect book free of geographical and historical errors, nor does it cover all winegrowing regions in the world. However, it is the first general classification of all wines, both French and ?foreign?, based on fairly clear criteria and written by an experienced and, as it seems, unprejudiced connoisseur. Its importance was recognized immediately after publication, and the global nature of its classification made it the basis for all similar undertakings. The analytical focus in the article is restricted to the territory of the present-day Serbia. In the Ottoman ?province? of Serbia, he singled out the environs of Belgrade as the most important winegrowing region, adding to it the environs of Pristina in the third edition. Wines produced in the eastern Srem (Karlovci) stand out in terms of quality. This overview also includes the winegrowing region of Banat with Vrsac and Bela Crkva (Weisskirchen). In the wine world of that time wines from Srem and Banat were classified as the wines of the Austrian Empire or, more narrowly, as Hungarian wines. Andr? Jullien obviously did not taste any of the mentioned Serbian wines personally. He relied above all on the information available in encyclopaedias, statistic records, geographies and travel accounts. The search for and identification of his sources has shown how thorough, consistent and honest he was in using such data. Undoubtedly, the best Serbian wines were made in and around Karlovci. A sweet red wine, Ausbruch, gained a high repute around the mid-18th century, retaining it into the 20th century. At first, Jullien classified it into the third and then into the exceptionally high second class of all world?s sweet red wines. For example, of all Hungarian wines, only Tokay was rated above it. Karlovci?s semi-sweet and dry wines received the same high second-class rating. Jullien?s classifications of Serbian wines confirmed the continued existence of high-quality winegrowing areas in what is now Serbia, from Roman times to the beginning of the 19th century.
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