拆分传统元素,应对奢侈品的挑战和危机

IF 0.4 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Luxury-History Culture Consumption Pub Date : 2023-09-01 DOI:10.1386/ipol_00019_1
Felicia Caponigri
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引用次数: 0

摘要

在奢侈品行业经营的品牌面临的挑战和危机中,传统能发挥什么作用?传统和奢华是一回事,还是不同的概念?在这篇简短的反思中,我探讨了遗产对奢侈品牌的意义,以及遗产如何最有效地帮助奢侈品牌创造新产品,进入新市场,并继续作为传统品牌运营。我简要地强调了两个主要的案例研究,以突出传统与奢侈品之间的共生关系,有时也是具有挑战性的关系,这两个案例是herm对艺术家梅森·罗斯柴尔德(Mason Rothschild)创作的MetaBirkins的争论,以及夏帕瑞丽(Schiaparelli)受但丁的《地狱》(Inferno)启发的高级定制系列。通过这些案例,我建议奢侈品考虑将遗产的原子分解为品牌遗产和文化遗产,以更充分地了解品牌遗产如何支持其奢侈品定位,同时承认品牌遗产如果不恰当地翻译给当代消费者可能会失败的时代。我还提出,文化遗产为奢侈品提供了机会,但也有责任更充分地承认奢侈品牌在我们的文化话语中的作用,允许对其设计和产品进行某些评论,尽管他们可能拥有合法权利。最后,我建议,教育课程,特别是在时尚和奢侈品法律方面,应该更充分地接受奢侈品和传统之间的交叉授粉。
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Splitting the atom of heritage to respond to luxury’s challenges and crises
What role does, and can, heritage play in the challenges and crises that confront brands operating in the luxury industry? Are heritage and luxury the same thing, or are they separate concepts? In this brief reflection, I explore what heritage means for luxury brands and how heritage might most impactfully help luxury brands as they create new products, enter new markets and continue to operate as heritage brands. The two main case studies I briefly highlight to spotlight the symbiotic and, at other times, challenging relationship between heritage and luxury are Hermès’ contestation of the creation of MetaBirkins by the artist Mason Rothschild and Schiaparelli’s Haute Couture collection inspired by Dante’s Inferno. Through these cases I propose that luxury consider splitting the atom of heritage into brand heritage and cultural heritage to more fully understand how brand heritage supports its luxury positioning while, at the same time, acknowledging the times that brand heritage, when improperly translated for contemporary consumers, might fail. I also propose that cultural heritage offers opportunities for luxury but also a responsibility to more fully acknowledge luxury brands’ role in our cultural discourse by permitting certain commentary on their designs and products, notwithstanding legal rights they might have in their arsenal. I conclude by proposing that educational offerings, especially in fashion and luxury law, should more fully embrace a cross-pollination between luxury and heritage.
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来源期刊
Luxury-History Culture Consumption
Luxury-History Culture Consumption HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-
自引率
50.00%
发文量
5
期刊最新文献
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