重新制作服装,重新制作世界:关于蹩脚的时尚黑客

Ben Barry, Philippa Nesbitt, Alexis De Villa, Kristina McMullin, Jonathan Dumitra
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摘要

本文探讨了残疾人的时尚黑客行为是如何通过扩展时尚设计流程、培养人际关系和接纳对残疾人的渴望来重塑世界的。我们分享我们项目第二阶段的研究,瘸腿的男子气概,在那里我们开发了时尚黑客工作坊,与残疾人,聋哑人,广告狂人和男性非二元性别的人。在这些工作坊中,参与者与时尚研究人员和学生合作,改变、修饰和重新创造他们现有的服装,以满足他们的身体、情感和精神需求。我们探讨了我们的工作坊如何通过集中时间灵活性、集体访问、相互依存和对交叉残疾人体现的渴望来遵循残疾人正义原则。通过探索在这些工作坊中形成的关系和制作的服装,我们阐明了一个跛脚时尚黑客的框架,从市场驱动的时尚产业的价值观中重新获得设计,并朝着残疾人正义的原则发展。这篇文章是作为研究小组成员之间的对话而写的,这种对话风格突出了我们建立关系的过程和实践。我们邀请教育工作者、设计师和/或研究人员利用蹩脚的时尚黑客,通过对被主流系统边缘化的群体的渴望来重新创造世界。
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Re-Making Clothing, Re-Making Worlds: On Crip Fashion Hacking
This article explores how Disabled people’s fashion hacking practices re-make worlds by expanding fashion design processes, fostering relationships, and welcoming-in desire for Disability. We share research from the second phase of our project, Cripping Masculinity, where we developed fashion hacking workshops with D/disabled, D/deaf and Mad men and masculine non-binary people. In these workshops, participants worked in collaboration with fashion researchers and students to alter, embellish, and recreate their existing garments to support their physical, emotional, and spiritual needs. We explore how our workshops heeded the principles of Disability Justice by centring flexibility of time, collective access, interdependence, and desire for intersectional Disabled embodiments. By exploring the relationships formed and clothing made in these workshops, we articulate a framework for crip fashion hacking that reclaims design from the values of the market-driven fashion industry and towards the principles of Disability Justice. This article is written as a dialogue between members of the research team, the conversational style highlights our relationship-making process and praxis. We invite educators, designers, and/or researchers to draw upon crip fashion hacking to re-make worlds by desiring with and for communities who are marginalized by dominant systems.
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