脏衣服:近代早期意大利人对衣服的关怀

IF 0.2 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2021-03-01 DOI:10.3366/COST.2021.0180
M. Robinson
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引用次数: 0

摘要

私人亚麻布是早期现代保健制度的关键组成部分。当亚麻衬衫的袖子、领子和袖口看起来干净明亮时,它们传达了穿着者身体的清洁,以及他们的思想、道德和精神状态。这些功能性的服装和配饰也很时尚,尤其是用褶边、蕾丝和刺绣装饰的时候。因此,亚麻布传达了卫生、社会、道德和财务信息,这些信息都是由洗衣过程产生并依赖于洗衣过程。这篇文章探讨了其中的一些过程,特别是当它们与生活在意大利北部城市的非精英人士拥有的亚麻衬衫、袖口和衣领有关时。它将档案、视觉和材料来源与通过重新创造早期现代护理服装过程产生的证据结合在一起,展示“洗衣服”如何赋予亚麻布社会和经济意义和价值。
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Dirty Laundry: Caring for Clothing in Early Modern Italy
Personal linens were key components of early modern health regimens. When they were visibly clean and bright white, linen shirtsleeves, collars and cuffs communicated the cleanliness of the wearer's body, as well as the state of their mind, morals and spirit. These functional garments and accessories could also be fashionable, especially when decorated with ruffles, lace and embroidery. Linens thus communicated hygienic, social, moral and financial information, which was generated by and reliant upon processes of laundry. This article explores some of these processes, especially as they pertain to linen shirts, cuffs and ruffs owned by non-elite people living in northern Italian cities. It brings archival, visual and material sources together with evidence generated through the re-creation of early modern processes of caring for clothing to show how ‘doing the laundry’ imparted linens with social and financial meanings and values.
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来源期刊
Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society
Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-
CiteScore
0.40
自引率
50.00%
发文量
27
期刊介绍: Costume is the journal of the Costume Society. It is a scholarly, refereed, academic publication presenting current research into historic and contemporary dress. The journal publishes articles primarily object-based, from a broad chronological period and with a worldwide remit. Costume maintains a balance between practice and theory and concentrates on the social significance of dress. Articles are welcomed from established researchers and those new to the field. The articles published in Costume are sent out for peer-review to ensure that they are of a high standard and make a contribution to dress history.
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