{"title":"一个鼓舞人心的对象:Kraków国立博物馆收藏的婚礼和服及其多重表现","authors":"Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka","doi":"10.3366/cost.2022.0230","DOIUrl":null,"url":null,"abstract":"The article is concerned with a Japanese wedding uchikake kimono, c. 1800–1850, acquired by distinguished Polish collector Feliks ‘Manggha’ Jasieński in 1900, the nuanced issues surrounding its multiple representations in Polish painting and photography during the period 1900–1908, and the multifarious meanings with which the garment was imbued. The uchikake’s original features exerted a seminal formal influence upon its representations. The interpretive process was also informed by perceptions concerning the woman’s status in society and marriage in Japan and in the West, Western and Japanese artistic traditions, as well as current Japonisme in art and fashion. In each of its representations, the uchikake also conveyed personal meanings important to the artist/wearer.","PeriodicalId":51969,"journal":{"name":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","volume":"36 1","pages":""},"PeriodicalIF":0.2000,"publicationDate":"2022-09-01","publicationTypes":"Journal Article","fieldsOfStudy":null,"isOpenAccess":false,"openAccessPdf":"","citationCount":"0","resultStr":"{\"title\":\"An Inspiring Object: A Wedding Uchikake Kimono from the Collection of the National Museum in Kraków and its Multiple Representations\",\"authors\":\"Małgorzata Możdżyńska-Nawotka\",\"doi\":\"10.3366/cost.2022.0230\",\"DOIUrl\":null,\"url\":null,\"abstract\":\"The article is concerned with a Japanese wedding uchikake kimono, c. 1800–1850, acquired by distinguished Polish collector Feliks ‘Manggha’ Jasieński in 1900, the nuanced issues surrounding its multiple representations in Polish painting and photography during the period 1900–1908, and the multifarious meanings with which the garment was imbued. The uchikake’s original features exerted a seminal formal influence upon its representations. The interpretive process was also informed by perceptions concerning the woman’s status in society and marriage in Japan and in the West, Western and Japanese artistic traditions, as well as current Japonisme in art and fashion. In each of its representations, the uchikake also conveyed personal meanings important to the artist/wearer.\",\"PeriodicalId\":51969,\"journal\":{\"name\":\"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society\",\"volume\":\"36 1\",\"pages\":\"\"},\"PeriodicalIF\":0.2000,\"publicationDate\":\"2022-09-01\",\"publicationTypes\":\"Journal Article\",\"fieldsOfStudy\":null,\"isOpenAccess\":false,\"openAccessPdf\":\"\",\"citationCount\":\"0\",\"resultStr\":null,\"platform\":\"Semanticscholar\",\"paperid\":null,\"PeriodicalName\":\"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society\",\"FirstCategoryId\":\"1085\",\"ListUrlMain\":\"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2022.0230\",\"RegionNum\":4,\"RegionCategory\":\"社会学\",\"ArticlePicture\":[],\"TitleCN\":null,\"AbstractTextCN\":null,\"PMCID\":null,\"EPubDate\":\"\",\"PubModel\":\"\",\"JCR\":\"0\",\"JCRName\":\"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY\",\"Score\":null,\"Total\":0}","platform":"Semanticscholar","paperid":null,"PeriodicalName":"Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society","FirstCategoryId":"1085","ListUrlMain":"https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2022.0230","RegionNum":4,"RegionCategory":"社会学","ArticlePicture":[],"TitleCN":null,"AbstractTextCN":null,"PMCID":null,"EPubDate":"","PubModel":"","JCR":"0","JCRName":"HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY","Score":null,"Total":0}
An Inspiring Object: A Wedding Uchikake Kimono from the Collection of the National Museum in Kraków and its Multiple Representations
The article is concerned with a Japanese wedding uchikake kimono, c. 1800–1850, acquired by distinguished Polish collector Feliks ‘Manggha’ Jasieński in 1900, the nuanced issues surrounding its multiple representations in Polish painting and photography during the period 1900–1908, and the multifarious meanings with which the garment was imbued. The uchikake’s original features exerted a seminal formal influence upon its representations. The interpretive process was also informed by perceptions concerning the woman’s status in society and marriage in Japan and in the West, Western and Japanese artistic traditions, as well as current Japonisme in art and fashion. In each of its representations, the uchikake also conveyed personal meanings important to the artist/wearer.
期刊介绍:
Costume is the journal of the Costume Society. It is a scholarly, refereed, academic publication presenting current research into historic and contemporary dress. The journal publishes articles primarily object-based, from a broad chronological period and with a worldwide remit. Costume maintains a balance between practice and theory and concentrates on the social significance of dress. Articles are welcomed from established researchers and those new to the field. The articles published in Costume are sent out for peer-review to ensure that they are of a high standard and make a contribution to dress history.