就像国王路,只是更近:苏格兰的精品富矿,1965-1970

IF 0.2 4区 社会学 0 HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society Pub Date : 2022-03-01 DOI:10.3366/cost.2022.0220
J. Halbert
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引用次数: 0

摘要

所谓“摇摆伦敦”(Swinging London)的时尚企业家——比如卡纳比街(Carnaby Street)的约翰•斯蒂芬(John Stephen)或国王路上(King’s Road)的玛丽•匡特(Mary Quant)——从根本上改变了20世纪60年代的英国时尚:从古老到年轻,从沉闷到充满活力,最重要的是,从商店到精品店。但是,尽管“摇摆伦敦”的影响在英国时尚和零售业的史学中得到了很好的记录,但人们对它的影响却知之甚少。本文考察了1965年至1970年间“摇摆伦敦”精品文化对苏格兰的影响。以格拉斯哥时装设计和制造企业Marion Donaldson为主要案例研究,利用各种口述历史、档案和媒体证据,追踪苏格兰精品时尚文化在多种零售环境中的传播。从格拉斯哥和爱丁堡的城市中心到城镇和其他地区,它提供了精品零售为马里昂·唐纳森和苏格兰时尚产业提供的机会的新分析,从而为20世纪60年代所谓的“精品热潮”对苏格兰时尚和企业文化的影响提供了新的见解。
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Just Like the King's Road, Only Nearer: Scotland's Boutique Bonanza, 1965–1970
The fashion entrepreneurs of so-called ‘Swinging London’ — John Stephen on Carnaby Street or Mary Quant on the King's Road, for example — fundamentally changed British fashion in the 1960s: from old to young, dull to vibrant and, crucially, from shop to boutique. But while the impact of ‘Swinging London’ is well recorded in the historiography of English fashion and retail, less is known about its effects further afield. This article considers the impact of ‘Swinging London’ boutique culture in Scotland between 1965 and 1970. Taking the example of the Glasgow fashion design and manufacturing business Marion Donaldson as its main case study, it draws on a variety of oral history, archival and media evidence to trace the dissemination of boutique fashion culture in Scotland across multiple retail contexts. From the urban centres of Glasgow and Edinburgh to the towns and regions beyond, it offers new analyses of the opportunities boutique retailing afforded Marion Donaldson and the Scottish fashion industry more generally, and thus provides new insight into the impact of the so-called ‘boutique boom’ of the 1960s on Scottish fashion and enterprise culture.
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来源期刊
Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society
Costume-The Journal of the Costume Society HUMANITIES, MULTIDISCIPLINARY-
CiteScore
0.40
自引率
50.00%
发文量
27
期刊介绍: Costume is the journal of the Costume Society. It is a scholarly, refereed, academic publication presenting current research into historic and contemporary dress. The journal publishes articles primarily object-based, from a broad chronological period and with a worldwide remit. Costume maintains a balance between practice and theory and concentrates on the social significance of dress. Articles are welcomed from established researchers and those new to the field. The articles published in Costume are sent out for peer-review to ensure that they are of a high standard and make a contribution to dress history.
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