热定型和整理对弹力织物力学性能和手性的影响

Meenakshi Ahirwar
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摘要

研究了热定型对含氨纶机织物力学性能的影响。对可拉伸织物的热定型处理是决定服装最终机械舒适性能的一个重要因素。然而,整理处理也会影响织物的机械性能以及织物的手性。在本研究中,探讨了后整理和热定型工艺的相对潜力,以确定合适的和经济有效的棉弹力机织物后整理路线。使用相同的结构参数,共生产了三种编织样品。采用全棉开端纺纱系统纺成的经纱。纬纱为棉包氨纶芯纺纱。采用不同的加工路线,研究了热定型和精加工工艺的影响。没有热定型的织物表现出更高的服装所需的所有机械性能,即更高的伸长率,更小的生长,更高的拉伸和撕裂强度,更大的折痕恢复角,而经纬方向的收缩潜力没有显著增加。没有热定型的织物在夏季穿着应用中表现出比热定型处理的织物更高的总手值。关于弹力织物的研究报道非常有限。因此,本研究尝试探讨热定型和整理等重要工艺对“弹力机织物”行为性能的影响。
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Role of heat setting and finishing treatment on mechanical properties and hand behavior of stretch fabric
This research deals with the effect of heat setting on mechanical properties of the woven fabrics containing spandex. The heat setting treatment given to stretchable fabrics is an important factor in deciding the eventual mechanical comfort properties of the garment. However, finishing treatment also influence fabric mechanical properties as well as hand behavior of the fabric. In this research, the relative potential of both finishing treatment and heat setting process were investigated in order to set appropriate and cost effective finishing route to cotton stretch woven fabric. A total of three woven samples were produced using the same construction parameters. The 100% cotton warp yarns spun on open end spinning system were used. The weft yarns were the cotton wrapped spandex-core spun yarns. The different processing routes were followed to study the effect of heat setting and finishing process. The fabrics without heat set exhibits higher values for all mechanical properties required for clothing i.e. higher elongation, lesser growth, higher tensile and tear strength, and larger crease recovery angle without any remarkable increase in shrinkage potential both in warp and weft directions. The fabrics without heat set exhibits higher total hand value than heat set treated fabrics for summer wear application. Very limited research studies have been reported with respect to the stretch fabrics. Therefore, a novel attempt has been made in this research work to investigate the role of important processes like heat setting and finishing on the behavioral properties of ‘stretch woven fabric’.
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