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Technology of preparation of defective cocoons for reeling 缫丝用缺陷茧的制备工艺
Pub Date : 2023-09-13 DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2023.09.00345
Akhmedov Jakhongir Adkhamovich, Jumaboev Akmal, Sharipov Sharipov Jurabek, Sobirov Quziboy, Atabaev Izzatbek
In this article, one of the ways to effectively use non-smooth defective cocoons that cannot be used in reeling is covered. An analysis of the development of the silk industry and the scientific work currently being carried out in this direction is presented. Water and air permeability of defective cocoons produced during cocoon sorting, evaporation regimes, influence of solution concentration on cocooning was studied by single cocooning. It is based on the fact that the amount of raw silk can be increased by introducing the spinning of defective cocoons. In order to achieve the set goal, separate cooking and water filling regimes of defective cocoons depending on the type of defect were determined based on experiments. A new processing method is recommended for cooking defective cocoons. Recommended technological parameters and modes for workshops are presented in the tables. Defective cocoons with a new concentration based on the type of defect recommended.
本文介绍了一种有效利用缫丝中不能使用的非光滑缺陷茧的方法。分析了丝绸工业的发展和目前在这方面进行的科学工作。以单茧为研究对象,研究了分选过程中产生的缺陷茧的透水性和透气性、蒸发方式、溶液浓度对成茧的影响。这是基于这样一个事实,即通过引入缺陷茧的纺丝可以增加生丝的数量。为了达到设定的目标,在实验的基础上,确定了不同缺陷类型的缺陷茧的单独蒸煮和补水制度。介绍了一种处理不良蚕茧的新方法。各车间的推荐工艺参数和模式见表。根据建议的缺陷类型,使用新的浓度的缺陷茧。
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引用次数: 0
Assessing the impact of multisensory attributes of Textile-based Assistive Devices (TADs) on the experiences of end-users 评估基于纺织品的辅助设备(TADs)的多感官属性对最终用户体验的影响
Pub Date : 2023-09-07 DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2023.09.00343
Kate Kate Annett-Hitchcock, Kate Nartker, Anne Porterfield
Researchers have defined and measured functional attributes of assistive devices, yet there are multiple dimensions of a device worn temporarily or for life that remain unexamined. The purpose of this study was to explore how the sensory attributes of assistive devices impact consumers in order to build a foundation for a holistic approach to product development. Two online surveys targeting wearers of textile-based assistive devices (TADs) (n=29) and caregivers (n=8) were used for data collection. Survey questions related to sensory experiences (visual, tactile, auditory, olfactory) and describe how device usage and purchasing was impacted. Results suggest that multisensory experiences of users and caregivers involve more complexity than functionality alone. Multisensory effects were diverse in both groups. Some expressed a desire for their device to be more visible and expressive, while others chose not to use, expressing fear of judgment based on visibility. Insight into multisensory aesthetics and how design can be used to conceal, reveal, or provide opportunities for self-expression, as well as avoid embarrassment for the wearer, will help designers understand how assistive devices can be improved and developed to meet the needs of individuals with disabilities. Findings suggest that existing measures of success should include questions about sensory attributes.
研究人员已经定义并测量了辅助设备的功能属性,但暂时或终身佩戴的设备仍有多个维度未被检查。本研究的目的是探讨辅助器具的感官属性如何影响消费者,以便为产品开发的整体方法建立基础。两项针对纺织品辅助装置(TADs)佩戴者(n=29)和护理者(n=8)的在线调查用于数据收集。调查与感官体验(视觉、触觉、听觉、嗅觉)相关的问题,并描述设备的使用和购买是如何受到影响的。结果表明,用户和照顾者的多感官体验比单独的功能更复杂。两组的多感官效应各不相同。一些人表示希望他们的设备更显眼,更有表现力,而另一些人则选择不使用,因为他们害怕基于可见性的评判。对多感官美学的洞察,以及设计如何被用来隐藏、展示或提供自我表达的机会,以及避免给佩戴者带来尴尬,将有助于设计师理解如何改进和开发辅助设备,以满足残疾人的需求。研究结果表明,现有的成功衡量标准应该包括有关感官属性的问题。
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引用次数: 0
Calibration and validation of the mini-fiber EC image analysis instrument mean fiber diameter through direct or primary measurements 通过直接或初步测量,对微型光纤EC图像分析仪器的平均光纤直径进行校准和验证
Pub Date : 2021-12-13 DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2021.07.00290
Eduardo Frank, EN Hick, M. Castillo, Gaut Mc, RH Mamani-Cato
The Minifiber EC (MFEC) is a portable instrument for measuring the diameter of animal fibers. Its accuracy and precision have been estimated but by comparing its measurements with those of laboratory devices that had been calibrated on other devices in turn, not on a direct or primary measure of diameter. This work attempts to test direct measurements by gravimetry, Vernier mini caliper, microscope and the classic microprojector, using a non-deformable, high resistance synthetic fiber (Kevlar) for direct measurement. The MFEC instrument is calibrated with each mean fiber diameter obtained in direct measurements and its results are compared. The conclusions drawn are that it is possible to calibrate the MFEC instrument with direct measurements on Kevlar and measurement accuracy or tolerance of 0.28 microns is obtained. This indicates a very low biased mean fiber diameter measurement by MFEC.
微型纤维EC (MFEC)是一种便携式动物纤维直径测量仪器。它的准确性和精密度是通过与实验室设备的测量结果进行比较来估计的,这些设备是在其他设备上依次校准的,而不是直接或主要的直径测量。这项工作试图测试直接测量重力,游标微型卡尺,显微镜和经典的微型投影仪,使用不可变形,高电阻合成纤维(凯夫拉)直接测量。用直接测量得到的光纤平均直径对MFEC仪器进行了标定,并对其结果进行了比较。得出的结论是,直接测量凯夫拉纤维可以校准MFEC仪器,测量精度或公差为0.28微米。这表明MFEC测量的平均光纤直径偏差非常低。
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引用次数: 0
Clicks-and-bricks: a case study of the Amaro brand 点击和砖块:Amaro品牌的案例研究
Pub Date : 2021-12-08 DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2021.07.00289
Maíra Nicoletti
The rise of e-commerce has dematerialized retail shopping locations, transposing them to the digital layer in the so-called 'brick-to-click' movement. However, the opposite path, 'click-and-brick', arouses curiosity for the re-association of the physical store with e-commerce, directing attention to new meanings of materiality in fashion retail. In this context, this paper discusses the multidimensional materiality of fashion retail within the e-commerce theme from two main movements: the emergence of physical spaces that complement online stores and the orientation of e-commerce operations towards big data. To illustrate the concepts and reflection on these themes, the authors carry out a case study on the omnichannel operations of a brazilian fashion brand called AMARO.
电子商务的兴起使零售购物场所非物质化,在所谓的“砖转点击”运动中将它们转移到数字层面。然而,相反的路径,“点击和砖块”,引起了人们对实体店与电子商务重新联系的好奇心,引导人们关注时尚零售中物质性的新含义。在此背景下,本文从两个主要运动来讨论电子商务主题下时尚零售的多维性:与在线商店相辅相成的实体空间的出现以及电子商务运营向大数据的方向发展。为了说明这些主题的概念和思考,作者对巴西时尚品牌AMARO的全渠道运营进行了案例研究。
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引用次数: 0
Modifications of microfiber synthetic leather base (MSLB) to enhance the sanitary performances: a review 改性超纤维合成革基提高卫生性能的研究进展
Pub Date : 2021-12-01 DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2021.07.00287
Md Khalilur Rahman Khan, Mohammad Naim Hassan, A. Siddique, H. Begum
Microfiber leather is a type of synthetic leather made up of a high-grade polyurethane resin and microfiber bundles that resemble the microscopic characteristics of natural leather. Microfiber has benefited from its smaller diameter, which is similar to that of real leather fibrils. Microfibers have received a lot of focus and are frequently employed in the synthetic leather basis, which is an important factor in regulating synthetic leather functionality. Microfiber synthetic leather has advantages over natural leather in terms of mechanical behavior, for example. However, there is a significant difference between natural leather and microfiber synthetic leather in terms of other aspects, such as hygiene issues. Microfiber synthetic leather, unlike natural leather, has inferior transmission and absorption qualities, making it feel hotter. As a result, there is a pressing need to improve the sanitary performance of superfine synthetic leather. Several studies have endeavored to improve the hygienic qualities of MSLB by modifying it in various ways. It is attempted to make a review on the different types of modifications in brief.
超纤维皮革是一种合成皮革,由高级聚氨酯树脂和超纤维束组成,类似于天然皮革的微观特征。超细纤维得益于其较小的直径,这与真皮原纤维相似。微纤维作为调节合成革功能的重要因素,在合成革基础上得到了广泛的应用。例如,超纤维合成革在机械性能方面优于天然皮革。然而,在其他方面,如卫生问题,天然皮革和超纤维合成革之间存在显著差异。与天然皮革不同,超纤维合成革的透光性和吸收性较差,使其感觉更热。因此,提高超细合成革的卫生性能是当务之急。一些研究试图通过对MSLB进行各种改性来改善其卫生品质。本文试图对不同类型的修改作一个简要的回顾。
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引用次数: 0
E-textiles prototypes and applications on wearable devices 电子纺织品原型及其在可穿戴设备上的应用
Pub Date : 2021-10-21 DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2021.07.00285
R. Giacomini, Jéssica Maia Piccirillo
This scientific research has the purpose of studying conductive textiles, also known as "smart" textiles. At the ending of the study, we performed the assembly of functional prototypes to give the technology proof of concept to further studies. Between these prototypes are the "smart" jacket, the "smart" pillow, and the "smart" t-shirt. All of these prototypes have electronic devices integrated with conductive textile fabrics and yarns. The functionality of the prototypes involves the obtained vital signals from the user's body, such as heartbeat, and identification of the "touch" made by the user's hand to send commands to a computer or a cellphone screen.
这项科学研究的目的是研究导电纺织品,也被称为“智能”纺织品。在研究结束时,我们进行了功能原型的组装,为进一步的研究提供了技术概念验证。在这些原型之间是“智能”夹克、“智能”枕头和“智能”t恤。所有这些原型都有与导电纺织织物和纱线集成的电子设备。原型机的功能包括从用户身体获得的重要信号,比如心跳,以及识别用户的手发出的“触摸”,从而向电脑或手机屏幕发送命令。
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引用次数: 0
When being pioneers in embracing technological innovation in not enough, an exploration into French Connection 在成为拥抱技术创新的先驱者还不够的时候,对法式连接进行了探索
Pub Date : 2021-10-12 DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2021.07.00282
Jamaluddin Majid
The onset of the pandemic and it impact on business has not only warranted business thinking of new, interesting and innovating ways in which to engage with consumer. However, has also warranted fashion brands to re-establish their core values and traits that originally made them successful. This conversation of re-evaluation of the core factors of success is now more important ever if key players in the fashion industry are seeking to engage in evolutionary transformation via the assistance of technology in order to survive and indeed retain their mantel of being vanguards for societal change during and in the aftermath of the pandemic. The necessity for business to engage with technology to entice Millennials and Generation Z more successfully is also of paramount concern. This is warranted in order to provide a counter voice to the negative viewpoints, which exist in relation to the perception of the fashion industry being exploitive and un-sustainable. The incumbents in the fashion industry reaction to the emergent change that the pandemic has created, necessitates all industries to make actionable plans now more than ever, in conjunction with understanding that change is an inevitable ongoing reality of all business and emergent radical changes may be what the business world will encounter in the future. However, it is important to acknowledge the resurgence in the fashion industry must be managed and navigated in a holistic manner. This warrants the inclusion all parts of an organisation working in conjunction with designers towards to the attainment of the same goals. Thus, unity of purpose is now more acute that ever by using French Connection as a case study the author proposes a model within which to embark upon the change process. The time for change is now and if organisation views this with opportunity in a positive manner, the results could prove to be favourable.
大流行的爆发及其对商业的影响不仅促使企业思考与消费者接触的新的、有趣的和创新的方式。然而,这也保证了时尚品牌重新建立他们最初使他们成功的核心价值观和特征。如果时尚行业的主要参与者正在寻求通过技术的帮助进行渐进式转型,以便在疫情期间和之后生存下来,并真正保持其作为社会变革先锋的地位,那么重新评估成功的核心因素的对话现在就变得前所未有地重要。企业有必要利用科技来更成功地吸引千禧一代和Z世代,这也是最令人担忧的问题。这是有必要的,以便为负面观点提供一个反击的声音,这些观点存在于对时尚产业的剥削和不可持续的看法中。时装业的在职者对疫情造成的紧急变化的反应,要求所有行业现在比以往任何时候都更有必要制定可操作的计划,同时认识到变化是所有企业不可避免的持续现实,而紧急的激进变化可能是商业世界未来将遇到的。然而,重要的是要认识到,时尚行业的复苏必须以一种整体的方式进行管理和引导。这保证了一个组织的所有部分都与设计师一起工作,以实现相同的目标。因此,通过使用法国连接作为案例研究,作者提出了一个开始变革过程的模型,目的的统一现在比以往任何时候都更加尖锐。现在是改变的时候了,如果组织以积极的态度看待这个机会,结果可能是有利的。
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引用次数: 0
Learning research methods in art and design 学习艺术与设计的研究方法
Pub Date : 2021-07-02 DOI: 10.15406/JTEFT.2021.07.00277
Sahar Ejeimi
The purpose of this review is to represent the significance of learning the research methods in art and design, specifically. The review particularly focuses on learning the methods provided by two key researchers in art and design fields. In the book titled “visualize research: a guide to the research process in art and design", the authors take the reader into a journey with the powerful perception of visual thinking through the experimental approach used in this research category. The review also represents the authors’ emphasis on learning research methods to conduct high-quality research studies in art and design, which ultimately impacts the world.
这篇综述的目的是代表学习艺术与设计研究方法的意义,具体来说。这篇综述特别侧重于学习艺术和设计领域的两位主要研究人员提供的方法。在《视觉研究:艺术与设计研究过程指南》一书中,作者通过这一研究类别中使用的实验方法,将读者带入了一场对视觉思维的强大感知之旅。这篇综述也代表了作者强调学习研究方法,以进行高质量的艺术和设计研究,最终影响世界。
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引用次数: 0
Impacts of textile and leather effluent on environment: an assessment through life cycle of fishes and plants 纺织和皮革废水对环境的影响:基于鱼类和植物生命周期的评估
Pub Date : 2021-06-24 DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2021.07.00276
M. Hasan, Akm Mashud Alam, A. Haque, Habiba H Moly, Muhammad Tanjil
The textile and tannery industry in Bangladesh is liable for polluting the soil and water body owing to the discharge of untreated effluents. They use enormous amounts of water, chemicals, and colorants for processing textile and leather products and release a complex mixture of organic and inorganic pollutants and metal contents, which negatively impact the environment. The main objective of this research was to study the deleterious impact of untreated textile and leather effluents on the environment in Bangladesh. For this purpose, textile and leather effluents were collected from industries during discharging after processing. Parameters, such as BOD, COD, pH, TDS, TSS, TH, Turbidity, conductivity, alkalinity, Dissolved Fe, metal contents, etc., were tested to determine the characteristics of the effluents. Moreover, the impact of these effluents on tree plants as well as on fishes was observed over 24 days. The results showed that the effluents contain extremely high values of BOD, COD, TDS, TSS, hardness, conductivity, alkalinity, silica from the recommended discharge limit. It was also observed that leather effluents cause a more harmful effect on the survival of fishes and trees due to the presence of high metal contents than textile effluents. The findings will help address this alarming situation in the ecosystem of Bangladesh and recommend immediate action to save the ecosystem from untreated discharges of industrial effluents.
由于排放未经处理的废水,孟加拉国的纺织和制革工业对污染土壤和水体负有责任。他们在加工纺织品和皮革产品时使用大量的水、化学品和着色剂,并释放出有机和无机污染物以及金属含量的复杂混合物,对环境产生负面影响。这项研究的主要目的是研究未经处理的纺织和皮革废水对孟加拉国环境的有害影响。为此,纺织和皮革废水在处理后的排放过程中被收集起来。通过对污水BOD、COD、pH、TDS、TSS、TH、浊度、电导率、碱度、溶解铁、金属含量等参数的测试,确定出水特性。此外,在24天内观察了这些废水对树木植物和鱼类的影响。结果表明,出水的BOD、COD、TDS、TSS、硬度、电导率、碱度、二氧化硅等指标均高于推荐排放限值。还观察到,皮革废水对鱼类和树木的生存造成更有害的影响,因为其金属含量比纺织品废水高。调查结果将有助于解决孟加拉国生态系统中这一令人震惊的情况,并建议立即采取行动,使生态系统免受未经处理的工业废水排放的影响。
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引用次数: 3
Thermophysiological clothing comfort 热生理服装舒适性
Pub Date : 2021-05-26 DOI: 10.15406/jteft.2021.07.00274
Devanand Uttam, Ramratan .
The clothing is not worn only for protecting the human body, but it helps to obtain comfort during high level activities or in unfavorable environmental conditions. Heat generated by the working human body in hot climate or high physical activity, which must be dissipated to the environment. Similarly, in the cold environment, the body is going to be shielded from cold feeling. Thermophysiological clothing comfort related to warmth and moisture transport behaviour of clothing. Good clothing helps to maintain body temperature during various level of physical activities and surrounding environmental condition. Therefore, some improved functional properties are desirable in the clothing. For clothing comfort, thermophysiological comfort properties of fabrics which are related to heat and moisture transport properties play very vital role. These properties can be introduced in the clothing by using various fibrous material and modifying the structure of yarns, fabrics and garments.
服装不仅是为了保护人体,而且在高水平活动或不利的环境条件下,它有助于获得舒适。人体在炎热的气候或高强度的体力活动中产生的热量,这些热量必须散发到环境中。同样,在寒冷的环境中,身体也会受到保护,不受寒冷的影响。热生理服装舒适性与服装的保暖和水分输送行为有关。在不同程度的身体活动和周围环境条件下,良好的衣服有助于保持体温。因此,需要在服装中改进一些功能特性。织物的热生理舒适性能对服装的舒适性起着至关重要的作用,而热生理舒适性能与织物的热湿传递性能有关。这些性能可以通过使用各种纤维材料和改变纱线、织物和服装的结构来引入服装中。
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引用次数: 1
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Journal of Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology
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