CHAPTER 6. Pigmentation and Photoaging

D. Tobin
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Abstract

Casual comparison of the appearance and texture of unprotected photoexposed hand and face skin versus the skin of the secluded upper inner arm quickly reveals the striking impact of accumulated solar radiation on skin aging, particularly after the third or fourth decade of life. The basis of this change in superficial appearance can be revealed in a host of anatomical, histological, and ultrastructural changes in the epidermis and dermis of the skin, which result from alterations at the cellular and molecular levels. There is increasing evidence that environmental pollution (including exposure to car fuel-derived particulates with/without light activation) and even certain wavelengths of visible light can also contribute to the global ‘photoaging’ response. Evolution has equipped human skin with at least partially effective protective devices against such environmental damage; principal among them includes the synthesis of copious amounts melanin that acts as a near-universal stress absorber. This still-enigmatic indole biopolymer acts as a ‘sink’ for toxins, pollutants, drugs, as well as a redox buffer against a host of reactive oxygen species. The latter are derived from a raft of chemical reactions at the skin. Brown/black (or wild-type) melanin far outperforms the photolabile red/yellow pheomelanin, which increases the vulnerability of the skin to photodamage and therefore photocarcinogenesis. Interventions that can boost eumelanin levels, in a solar radiation-independent manner, may enhance protection against skin photodamage.
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第六章。色素沉着和光老化
随便比较一下未受保护的暴露在阳光下的手和脸的皮肤与未受保护的上臂内侧的皮肤的外观和质地,很快就会发现日晒对皮肤老化的显著影响,特别是在生命的第三或第四个十年之后。这种表面变化的基础可以在皮肤表皮和真皮层的解剖学、组织学和超微结构变化中揭示出来,这些变化是细胞和分子水平改变的结果。越来越多的证据表明,环境污染(包括暴露于有/没有光激活的汽车燃料衍生颗粒),甚至某些波长的可见光也可能导致全球“光老化”反应。进化已经为人类皮肤配备了至少部分有效的保护装置,以抵御这种环境损害;其中最主要的包括大量黑色素的合成,它几乎是一种普遍的压力吸收剂。这种仍然神秘的吲哚生物聚合物作为毒素、污染物、药物的“水槽”,以及对抗活性氧的氧化还原缓冲。后者是由皮肤的一系列化学反应产生的。褐色/黑色(或野生型)黑色素远远优于光致性的红色/黄色现象黑色素,后者会增加皮肤对光损伤的脆弱性,从而导致光致癌。以不依赖太阳辐射的方式提高真黑素水平的干预措施可能增强对皮肤光损伤的保护。
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CHAPTER 1. Photoaging in Caucasians CHAPTER 6. Pigmentation and Photoaging CHAPTER 8. Collagen Damage Induced by Chronic Exposure to Sunlight CHAPTER 12. Cosmeceuticals CHAPTER 11. Photoprotection in the Prevention of Photodamage and Cutaneous Cancer
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