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CHAPTER 6. Pigmentation and Photoaging 第六章。色素沉着和光老化
Pub Date : 2019-08-06 DOI: 10.1039/9781788015981-00145
D. Tobin
Casual comparison of the appearance and texture of unprotected photoexposed hand and face skin versus the skin of the secluded upper inner arm quickly reveals the striking impact of accumulated solar radiation on skin aging, particularly after the third or fourth decade of life. The basis of this change in superficial appearance can be revealed in a host of anatomical, histological, and ultrastructural changes in the epidermis and dermis of the skin, which result from alterations at the cellular and molecular levels. There is increasing evidence that environmental pollution (including exposure to car fuel-derived particulates with/without light activation) and even certain wavelengths of visible light can also contribute to the global ‘photoaging’ response. Evolution has equipped human skin with at least partially effective protective devices against such environmental damage; principal among them includes the synthesis of copious amounts melanin that acts as a near-universal stress absorber. This still-enigmatic indole biopolymer acts as a ‘sink’ for toxins, pollutants, drugs, as well as a redox buffer against a host of reactive oxygen species. The latter are derived from a raft of chemical reactions at the skin. Brown/black (or wild-type) melanin far outperforms the photolabile red/yellow pheomelanin, which increases the vulnerability of the skin to photodamage and therefore photocarcinogenesis. Interventions that can boost eumelanin levels, in a solar radiation-independent manner, may enhance protection against skin photodamage.
随便比较一下未受保护的暴露在阳光下的手和脸的皮肤与未受保护的上臂内侧的皮肤的外观和质地,很快就会发现日晒对皮肤老化的显著影响,特别是在生命的第三或第四个十年之后。这种表面变化的基础可以在皮肤表皮和真皮层的解剖学、组织学和超微结构变化中揭示出来,这些变化是细胞和分子水平改变的结果。越来越多的证据表明,环境污染(包括暴露于有/没有光激活的汽车燃料衍生颗粒),甚至某些波长的可见光也可能导致全球“光老化”反应。进化已经为人类皮肤配备了至少部分有效的保护装置,以抵御这种环境损害;其中最主要的包括大量黑色素的合成,它几乎是一种普遍的压力吸收剂。这种仍然神秘的吲哚生物聚合物作为毒素、污染物、药物的“水槽”,以及对抗活性氧的氧化还原缓冲。后者是由皮肤的一系列化学反应产生的。褐色/黑色(或野生型)黑色素远远优于光致性的红色/黄色现象黑色素,后者会增加皮肤对光损伤的脆弱性,从而导致光致癌。以不依赖太阳辐射的方式提高真黑素水平的干预措施可能增强对皮肤光损伤的保护。
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引用次数: 0
CHAPTER 13. Topical Retinoids for the Treatment of Photoaged Skin 第13章。局部类维生素a治疗光老化皮肤
Pub Date : 2019-08-06 DOI: 10.1039/9781788015981-00341
E. S. Pedersen, J. Voorhees, D. Sachs
Skin photoaging is characterized by fine and coarse wrinkles, dyspigmentation and textural irregularities. These clinical findings have negative cosmetic and functional implications. Topical retinoids activate retinoid receptors in the skin leading to clinical improvement in wrinkles, dyspigmentation and skin roughness and are considered to be the mainstay of therapy for photoaged skin. Natural and synthetic topical retinoids are reviewed with respect to their molecular mechanisms and clinical effects.
皮肤光老化的特征是细小和粗糙的皱纹,色素沉着和纹理不规则。这些临床结果对美容和功能有负面影响。局部类维甲酸激活皮肤中的类维甲酸受体,导致皱纹,色素沉着和皮肤粗糙的临床改善,被认为是光老化皮肤的主要治疗方法。综述了天然类维生素a和合成类维生素a的分子机制和临床效果。
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引用次数: 0
CHAPTER 7. Epidermal Stem Cells and Dermal–Epidermal Junction 第七章。表皮干细胞与真皮-表皮连接处
Pub Date : 2019-08-06 DOI: 10.1039/9781788015981-00167
M. Aumailley, C. Niemann
Aging of mammalian skin results from two distinct biological processes: intrinsic and extrinsic mechanisms of skin aging. Exposure to solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation (photoaging) is the major extrinsic assault accelerating the normal aging process. The epidermis constitutes the outermost layer of the skin and thus is constantly challenged by harmful environmental assaults. As an integral part of the skin barrier, the epidermis ensures protection by its robust stratified architecture and integrated epidermal appendages. The epidermal tissue is further stabilized by specialized zones connecting the epidermis to the underlying dermal tissue. These dermal–epidermal junctions (DEJs) consist of a network of different intracellular, transmembrane and extracellular proteins that together fulfil crucial biological and structural functions. Above all, the epidermis relies on tissue stem cells to maintain homeostasis and to guarantee tissue repair following damage. Hence, proper stem cell function is pivotal and required to sustain assaults. In this review we present important structural and functional aspects of the DEJ and its role in aging of the skin. We also discuss implications and protective mechanisms of UV-irradiated epidermis, highlighting stem cell-specific surveillance mechanisms and the important function of the stem cell niche.
哺乳动物皮肤老化是由两种不同的生物过程引起的:皮肤老化的内在机制和外在机制。暴露于太阳紫外线(UV)辐射(光老化)是加速正常老化过程的主要外来攻击。表皮构成了皮肤的最外层,因此不断受到有害环境的挑战。作为皮肤屏障的一个组成部分,表皮通过其坚固的分层结构和完整的表皮附属物来确保保护。表皮组织通过连接表皮和下层真皮组织的特殊区域进一步稳定。这些真皮-表皮连接点(DEJs)由不同的细胞内、跨膜和细胞外蛋白质组成的网络组成,它们共同完成重要的生物学和结构功能。最重要的是,表皮依赖于组织干细胞来维持体内平衡,并保证组织损伤后的修复。因此,适当的干细胞功能是关键的,需要维持攻击。在这篇综述中,我们介绍了DEJ的重要结构和功能方面及其在皮肤老化中的作用。我们还讨论了紫外线照射下表皮的影响和保护机制,强调了干细胞特异性监视机制和干细胞生态位的重要功能。
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引用次数: 1
CHAPTER 12. Cosmeceuticals 第十二章。药妆品
Pub Date : 2019-08-06 DOI: 10.1039/9781788015981-00315
E. Bradley, M. Bell, Z. Draelos
Cosmeceuticals, defined for the purpose of this chapter as highly efficacious functional ingredients or final products, are becoming more commonplace in the skincare market globally, in particular within the anti-aging category. Many of these ingredients or products aim to improve the clinical features of photoaged skin such as wrinkles and pigmentation through targeting the underlying causes of these clinical features, with increasingly comprehensive efficacy and mechanistic data to support these claims. In this chapter, we review the main classes of cosmeceuticals, the biological endpoints they target together with the evidence that supports their clinical efficacy.
药妆品,在本章中被定义为高效的功能性成分或最终产品,在全球护肤品市场中变得越来越普遍,特别是在抗衰老类别中。许多这些成分或产品旨在通过针对这些临床特征的潜在原因来改善光老化皮肤的临床特征,如皱纹和色素沉着,越来越全面的功效和机制数据支持这些说法。在本章中,我们回顾了药妆品的主要类别,它们针对的生物学终点以及支持其临床疗效的证据。
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引用次数: 0
CHAPTER 8. Collagen Damage Induced by Chronic Exposure to Sunlight 第八章。长期暴露在阳光下导致的胶原蛋白损伤
Pub Date : 2019-08-06 DOI: 10.1039/9781788015981-00195
L. Rittié
Because of its lack of a protective fur, human skin is readily susceptible to external elements, including ultraviolet radiations from sunlight. In fair-skinned and mildly pigmented individuals, ultraviolet radiations have severe damaging effects: they are responsible for premature aging of the skin (photoaging) and for tumorigenesis. This chapter details our current knowledge of how ultraviolet radiations affect the dermis (the nutritional and supportive layer of the skin) and, particularly, its collagen network. Dermal collagen provides strength and resiliency to the skin and is an important substrate for cell migration during wound repair. Altered collagen structure is a hallmark of aged dermis that can no longer exert its supportive function. Here, we review the molecular mechanisms by which ultraviolet light-induced signaling cascades transiently affect collagen homeostasis, we detail our understanding of how repeated exposure to sunlight leads to a sustained presence of damaged collagen fibers, and we explain why photoaging should be viewed as a self-sustained process. In all, we highlight many molecular targets to be considered by scientists aiming to restore the structure and function of photoaged skin.
由于缺乏保护性的皮毛,人类的皮肤很容易受到外界因素的影响,包括来自阳光的紫外线辐射。在皮肤白皙和轻度色素沉着的个体中,紫外线辐射具有严重的破坏性影响:它们是皮肤过早老化(光老化)和肿瘤发生的原因。本章详细介绍了我们目前对紫外线辐射如何影响真皮层(皮肤的营养和支持层),特别是其胶原蛋白网络的了解。真皮胶原蛋白为皮肤提供强度和弹性,是伤口修复过程中细胞迁移的重要基质。胶原蛋白结构的改变是真皮老化的标志,不能再发挥其支持功能。在这里,我们回顾了紫外线诱导的信号级联反应瞬间影响胶原稳态的分子机制,详细介绍了我们对反复暴露在阳光下导致胶原纤维持续受损的理解,并解释了为什么光老化应被视为一个自我维持的过程。总之,我们强调了许多分子目标,科学家们要考虑的目标是恢复光老化皮肤的结构和功能。
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引用次数: 0
CHAPTER 1. Photoaging in Caucasians 第1章。白种人的光老化
Pub Date : 2019-08-06 DOI: 10.1039/9781788015981-00001
J. Ayer, C. Griffiths
This chapter discusses the prevalence of photoaging in white Northern Europeans, as well as describing the two main facial photoaging phenotypes, termed ‘hypertrophic’ photoaging (HP) and ‘atrophic’ photoaging (AP). HP individuals have deep, coarse wrinkles, whereas those with AP have relatively smooth, unwrinkled skin with pronounced telangiectasia. Both phenotypes have distinct histological characteristics. AP has a significantly thicker epidermis than HP. Further stratification by gender demonstrates that the AP epidermal thickness is increased significantly in males as compared to females. HP photoaged skin exhibits severe solar elastosis, characterized by extensive deposition of amorphous, abnormally thickened, curled and fragmented elastic material in the dermis. In AP photoaged skin, there are gender differences in elastic fibre deposition; solar elastosis is apparent in females but not in males. Loss of papillary dermal fibrillin-rich microfibrils is a distinctive feature of photoaging occurring in both HP subjects and in AP females. It is important for clinicians to recognize that these two phenotypes exist because individuals with the AP phenotype have an increased propensity for developing keratinocyte cancers. Lastly, tools for measuring and objectively assessing response of photoaged skin to treatment exist and should be used for these purposes.
本章讨论了北欧白人光老化的普遍性,并描述了两种主要的面部光老化表型,称为“肥厚性”光老化(HP)和“萎缩性”光老化(AP)。HP患者有深而粗的皱纹,而AP患者的皮肤相对光滑,无皱纹,有明显的毛细血管扩张。两种表型具有不同的组织学特征。AP的表皮明显比HP厚。进一步的性别分层表明,与雌性相比,雄性AP表皮厚度显著增加。HP光老化皮肤表现出严重的日光弹性症,其特征是真皮中大量无定形、异常增厚、卷曲和碎片化的弹性物质沉积。在AP光老化皮肤中,弹性纤维沉积存在性别差异;太阳弹性在女性中很明显,但在男性中不明显。乳头状真皮富含纤维蛋白的微原纤维的丧失是光老化的一个显著特征,发生在HP受试者和AP女性中。对于临床医生来说,认识到这两种表型的存在是很重要的,因为具有AP表型的个体发生角化细胞癌的倾向增加。最后,测量和客观评估光老化皮肤对治疗反应的工具是存在的,应该用于这些目的。
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引用次数: 3
CHAPTER 11. Photoprotection in the Prevention of Photodamage and Cutaneous Cancer 第十一章。光防护在预防光损伤和皮肤癌中的作用
Pub Date : 2019-08-06 DOI: 10.1039/9781788015981-00275
S. Momen, R. Sarkany
Ultraviolet (UV) exposure, from the sun and sunbeds, is the main cause of skin cancer and the only cause of photoaging. Photoprotection involves a complex set of behaviours decreasing UV exposure by a wide range of means. The tools for photoprotection, especially sunscreens, have improved dramatically over recent years. There is limited evidence that photoprotection with sunscreen protects against skin cancer. Major barriers to good photoprotection remain, because photoprotection involves a complex set of behaviours, which are crucially dependent on psychosocial and societal factors.
来自太阳和日光浴床的紫外线(UV)暴露是皮肤癌的主要原因,也是光老化的唯一原因。光防护包括一系列复杂的行为,通过多种方式减少紫外线暴露。防晒工具,尤其是防晒霜,近年来已经有了显著的进步。有有限的证据表明防晒霜的光防护可以预防皮肤癌。良好光防护的主要障碍仍然存在,因为光防护涉及一系列复杂的行为,这些行为严重依赖于社会心理和社会因素。
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引用次数: 1
CHAPTER 7. Ultraviolet-induced Formation of DNA Damage in Cells and their Mutational Consequences 第七章。紫外线诱导细胞DNA损伤的形成及其突变后果
Pub Date : 1900-01-01 DOI: 10.1039/9781839165580-00133
T. Douki, S. Adar
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引用次数: 1
CHAPTER 10. Do Proteoglycans Mediate Chronic Photoaging? 第十章。蛋白聚糖介导慢性光老化吗?
Pub Date : 1900-01-01 DOI: 10.1039/9781788015981-00231
Jang-Hee Oh, J. Chung
As well as collagen and elastin, glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) and proteoglycans (PGs) are abundant components in the extracellular matrix (ECM) in the skin. Hyaluronic acid (HA), dermatan sulfate (DS), chondroitin sulfate (CS), heparan sulfate (HS), heparin (HP), and keratin sulfate (KS) are six known members of GAGs, and numbers of their own partner PGs have been reported, except HA. Their structural and physiological roles are being revealed, and they are focused in these days as one of new targets for preventing or recovering skin aging. Understanding the complex interaction of GAGs and PGs with ECM components, specially, collagen and elastic fibers, may help us find new ideas to overcome the skin aging phenomenon. In this review, aging-related change of collagen and elastic fibers and glycosaminoglycan synthesis were simply explained as background, and the structural and physiological roles of skin-abundant GAGs and PGs, including hyaluronic acid, DS-PGs (decorin, biglycan, and others), CS-PGs (versican, CD44, and others), HS-PGs (perlecan and others), KS-PGs (lumican, osteoglycin, and fibromodulin), and their skin aging-related changes and possible involvements in the development of phenotypes of photoaging were summarized.
除胶原蛋白和弹性蛋白外,糖胺聚糖(GAGs)和蛋白聚糖(pg)也是皮肤细胞外基质(ECM)中丰富的成分。透明质酸(HA)、硫酸皮肤素(DS)、硫酸软骨素(CS)、硫酸肝素(HS)、肝素(HP)和硫酸角蛋白(KS)是已知的六种GAGs成员,除了HA外,它们自己的伴侣pg也有报道。它们在结构和生理上的作用正在被揭示,并作为预防或恢复皮肤老化的新靶点之一受到关注。了解GAGs和pg与ECM组分,特别是胶原蛋白和弹性纤维的复杂相互作用,可能有助于我们找到克服皮肤老化现象的新思路。本文以胶原蛋白和弹性纤维的衰老相关变化以及糖胺聚糖的合成为背景,简要介绍了皮肤丰富的GAGs和PGs的结构和生理作用,包括透明质酸、DS-PGs (decorin、biglycan等)、CS-PGs (versican、CD44等)、HS-PGs (perlecan等)、KS-PGs (lumican、osteoglycin、fibromodulin)、综述了它们与皮肤老化相关的变化及其可能参与光老化表型的发展。
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引用次数: 0
Cutaneous Photoaging 皮肤光老化
Pub Date : 1900-01-01 DOI: 10.1039/9781788015981
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引用次数: 1
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Comprehensive Series in Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences
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