Modeling wave attenuation by vegetation with accompanying currents in SWAN

IF 1.4 3区 地球科学 Q3 OCEANOGRAPHY Acta Oceanologica Sinica Pub Date : 2024-03-12 DOI:10.1007/s13131-023-2199-1
Hong Wang, Zhan Hu
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Abstract

Coastal wetlands such as salt marshes and mangroves provide important protection against stormy waves. Accurate assessments of wetlands’ capacity in wave attenuation are required to safely utilize their protection services. Recent studies have shown that tidal currents have a significant impact on wetlands’ wave attenuation capacity, but such impact has been rarely considered in numerical models, which may lead to overestimation of wave attenuation in wetlands. This study modified the SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) model to account for the effect of accompanying currents on vegetation-induced wave dissipation. Furthermore, this model was extended to include automatically derived vegetation drag coefficients, spatially varying vegetation height, and Doppler Effect in combined current-wave flows. Model evaluation against an analytical model and flume data shows that the modified model can accurately simulate wave height change in combined current-wave flows. Subsequently, we applied the new model to a mangrove wetland on Hailing Island in China with a special focus on the effect of currents on wave dissipation. It is found that the currents can either increase or decrease wave attenuation depending on the ratio of current velocity to the amplitude of the horizontal wave orbital velocity, which is in good agreement with field observations. Lastly, we used Hailing Island site as an example to simulate wave attenuation by vegetation under hypothetical storm surge conditions. Model results indicate that when currents are 0.08–0.15 m/s and the incident wave height is 0.75–0.90 m, wetlands’ wave attenuation capacity can be reduced by nearly 10% compared with pure wave conditions, which provides implications for critical design conditions for coastal safety. The obtained results and the developed model are valuable for the design and implementation of wetland-based coastal defense. The code of the developed model has been made open source, in the hope to assist further research and coastal management.

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在 SWAN 中模拟植被对波浪的衰减以及伴随的水流
盐沼和红树林等沿海湿地为抵御风暴海浪提供了重要保护。要安全地利用湿地的保护服务,就必须对湿地的波浪衰减能力进行准确评估。最近的研究表明,潮汐流对湿地的波浪衰减能力有很大影响,但数值模型很少考虑这种影响,这可能会导致高估湿地的波浪衰减能力。本研究对 SWAN(模拟近岸波浪)模型进行了修改,以考虑伴流对植被引起的波浪消散的影响。此外,还对该模型进行了扩展,以包括自动推导的植被阻力系数、空间变化的植被高度以及水流-波流组合中的多普勒效应。根据分析模型和水槽数据对模型进行的评估表明,修改后的模型能够准确模拟组合流-波流中的波高变化。随后,我们将新模型应用于中国海陵岛的红树林湿地,重点研究了水流对波浪消散的影响。研究发现,水流可以增加或减少波浪衰减,具体取决于水流速度与水平波轨道速度振幅的比值,这与现场观测结果非常吻合。最后,我们以海陵岛为例,模拟了假设风暴潮条件下植被对波浪的衰减作用。模型结果表明,当水流速度为 0.08-0.15 m/s、入射波高为 0.75-0.90 m 时,湿地的波浪衰减能力与纯波浪条件相比可降低近 10%,这为海岸安全的关键设计条件提供了启示。获得的结果和开发的模型对基于湿地的海岸防御设计和实施具有重要价值。所开发模型的代码已开放源代码,希望能为进一步的研究和海岸管理提供帮助。
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来源期刊
Acta Oceanologica Sinica
Acta Oceanologica Sinica 地学-海洋学
CiteScore
2.50
自引率
7.10%
发文量
3884
审稿时长
9 months
期刊介绍: Founded in 1982, Acta Oceanologica Sinica is the official bi-monthly journal of the Chinese Society of Oceanography. It seeks to provide a forum for research papers in the field of oceanography from all over the world. In working to advance scholarly communication it has made the fast publication of high-quality research papers within this field its primary goal. The journal encourages submissions from all branches of oceanography, including marine physics, marine chemistry, marine geology, marine biology, marine hydrology, marine meteorology, ocean engineering, marine remote sensing and marine environment sciences. It publishes original research papers, review articles as well as research notes covering the whole spectrum of oceanography. Special issues emanating from related conferences and meetings are also considered. All papers are subject to peer review and are published online at SpringerLink.
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