Transitioning from Pickering emulsions to Pickering emulsion hydrogels: A potential advancement in cosmeceuticals

Abstract

Cosmeceuticals, focusing on enhancing skin health and appearance, heavily rely on emulsions as one of the common mediums. These emulsions pose a challenge due to their dependence on surfactants which are essential for stability but are causing concerns about environmental impact as well as evolving consumer preferences. This has led to research focused on Pickering emulsions (PEs), which are colloidal particle-based emulsion alternatives. Compared to conventional emulsions, PEs offer enhanced stability and functionality in addition to serving as a sustainable alternative but still pose challenges such as rheological control and requiring further improvement in long-term stability, whereby the limitations could be addressed through the introduction of a hydrogel network. In this review, we first highlight the strategies and considerations to optimize active ingredient (AI) absorption and penetration in a PE-based formulation. We then delve into a comprehensive overview of the potential of Pickering-based cosmeceutical emulsions including their attractive features, the various Pickering particles that can be employed, past studies and their limitations. Further, PE hydrogels (PEHs), which combines the features between PE and hydrogel as an innovative solution to address challenges posed by both conventional emulsions and PEs in the cosmeceutical industry is explored. Moreover, concerns related to toxicity and biocompatibility are critically examined, alongside considerations of scalability and commercial viability, providing a forward-looking perspective on potential future research directions centered on the application of PEHs in the cosmeceutical field.